This shrub can light up the garden.
rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Have to give up balcony garden (read: fire escape garden)
Comments (4)Depending on how much time and $$ you want to devote to your gardening inside, it is do-able to a certain degree if you find an area that you can use to set up special lighting for them and include some sort of air circulation across the area (fan) and a way to control/increase the humidity (humidifier - although in summer, a lack of humidity both inside and out in the NE is not really an issue but is an issue in winter). You have some plants (lavender, rosemary, daisies, poppies, tomatoes) that need more light than the others, which can grow in part-sun/light. If you are really serious about maintaining those plants indoors year-round, I would recommend you browse through the Growing Under Lights Forum and see some of the ways people grow indoors. An example thread that is related to your situation can be found here. Wish you luck! I overwinter a number of high-light plants with a simple Home Depot worklight, which itself is expensive (electric) due to them being dual-500W. The heat generated by them (I use a fan across the area and have 2 humidfiers there) can be a bit of a drawback, but the plants I put under them prefer it (other overwintered plants go into my cool moist dark bedroom). However they can go out in late spring/summer/fall in good shape. If I had to do it all indoors, I'd probably set up a different lighting system....See MoreFoundation shrubs for a brick home - first time garden planner!
Comments (6)Oh, I'm sorry that I missed these responses! I thought I indicated that I'd like a notification in my email when someone responded... perhaps I made a newbie mistake! Anyway, I'm glad I checked in and do appreciate all of the responses. Also, I've already been considering many of the suggestions you all have made - that makes me feel less inept! Yesterday I bought three dwarf soft touch Japanese holly to place below the windows on the left side of the house. I've also cleaned out all of the yucky and old pine straw. To the poster who asked about the shrubs on the right side of the house, by the dog, I have not yet ripped them out. I think we'll be doing that tonight though. I was considering keeping them (really, I felt like a plant murderer, haha!) but I honestly hate them and who plants azaleas crammed between a house and concrete walk way?! You can't see it, but there is one still left over.. To be honest, at the time of posting this initial thread I had somehow missed how low the windows were. This weekend this fact hit me, and I realized that many of the shrubs would have to be low and mounding. I was, however, considering putting a large burgundy shrub at the outer corners, and then perhaps the inner corners (the corner to the left of the door and the corner to the right of the enclosed garden space) putting some matching burgundy/reddish plants. I was hoping that they would 'pop' more being flanked by a lot of green. Then again, I also like the idea of including some chartreuse shrubs. Perhaps I could plop two larger shrubs that offer this color on the outer corners, and at their base create a grouping of lower mounding burgundy shrubs? If any of you like this idea, could you recommend a chartreuse colored shrub? I'm new to this, and can only think of a nandina variety.. but it turns red later in the year. Wodka, I really like the knockout rose suggestion. I'm actually hoping to include them somewhere. They do very well in this area. Dave11, I don't like those trees so close, either. The home is 15 years old, and I'm shocked that they weren't removed at some point. I actually had them looked at recently by a tree person. I was shocked when he said that he didn't see it as an emergency to remove them. The pine, I believe, is a long leaf. The other tree is an elm. They are 10' from the house. Since I limbed up the elm, they distract the eye much less. I'm not sure what we are going to do with them, but if we remove anything it will have to wait - the pine alone will be extremely expensive. I will try to get some extra photos later today and post them. Many thanks to everyone!!!...See MoreProblems with shrubs drying up
Comments (10)If well-soaked at planting problem is texture difference between original root-ball and soil in planting hole. If not mulched in summer sun can bake water out of top of root-ball also. However, if kept moist enough to function adequately in first weeks (during growing season) new roots will grow out of original ball even if root-bound; main issue with root-bound woody stock is circling roots cause mechanical problems later in life of specimen, such as toppling or girdling. That is why there is a million live trees and shrubs around that were planted with intact root-balls in amended planting holes, if they make it through the watering issues at first then they are good to go - until and unless they fall over or girdle later. Nobody thought there was a problem with undisturbed roots and amended planting holes because many trees and shrubs given this treatment do manage to live and grow; indeed there are still plenty of sources advocating obsolete methods like this, even though the drawbacks to them started to be noticed in the 1960s....See MoreNeed Advice on Clematis to grow up shrubs
Comments (8)Bellarosa, my VV has never had a problem with blooming. It is just that in the three years I have had it, it hasn't really gotten very tall and turned into a monster as far as overall size. Most of the type III viticella clematis that you purchase can become a monster in size if you don't prune it down each year ( also provided it doesn't get killed back by mother nature during the winter). In Linda Buetler's book, she shows a picture of Polish Spirit that had never been pruned back and is climbing a tall evergreen tree of some sort. The only problem with doing that is that the plant flowers on new wood so any old wood shouldn't have any flowers and the older woody growth may loose its foilage and become leggy. I may have to try not pruning my VV this year and see what happens to it though! I love a good experiment! Annie, it sounds as if your viburnums would work wonderfully for D of A. The plant will take a few years to get established and really get going and if you keep it pruned back the first year or so to establish a good root system, it shouldn't overwhelm your plants and give them a chance to get growing. As far as how big D of A might get, I will leave that to be answered by someone who has had theirs longer. Mine has been in the ground for only three years and is on the north side of the house. Good luck!...See Morerouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
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