In general, you want to install your moisture barrier closest to the source of moisture. On above-ground walls you usually put it next to the sheetrock because people generate moisture. On basement walls you usually put it right on the cement wall because ground moisture vapor continues to come through the concrete. Your contractor got it backwards and that is why you had trapped moisture. If you are willing to spend some money, you could have closed cell foam sprayed into the wall, which would provide the sealing you need. After than you wouldn't even need the fiberglass insulation to get the R value you need.. You can also glue sheets of foam into the stud bays and just spray foam the edges to seal it, but that's a tedious job. Can you verify that they used treated wood for the sill plates on the framing? It would be nice if they used treated studs also if they are in contact with the cement walls. You want to keep the water vapor out of all the wood products. Like other insulation in an occupied space, foam requires a heat/fire barrier, and 1/2' sheetrock is the most common. Bruce

Maecom Technology, The studded walls have not been re-insulated yet following it's removal and mold remediation. The insulation company that is going to be doing the work told us if un-faced fiberglass bat insulation is used (which is the standard insulation done by the builder) then the insulation must be covered with a plastic. The mold remediation company recommends not using the plastic or paper faced bat insulation. I was hoping to either sheetrock the walls without a plastic vapor barrier or to shiplap the walls without using a vapor barrier. Thanks

I like all trim semi gloss. Certainly no less than a satin finish. They need to be very easily cleanable. Same with the doors. Your choice with the shiplap. Probably same sheen as the rest of the room.

Accessible beige has a green undertone, but it’s unlikely it will appear unless it is against other elements that have heavy red or orange Tones. for a warm color you’re trying to achieve you must choose a warm color that You can live with, even if it’s just a tinge, there’s no color out there without an undertone unless it’s white or black. I’d suggest a green undertone neutral to coordinate with your yellow permanent fixtures like flooring, and you won’t necessarily see the green. Plus colors change throughout the day, it’s best to pick a color for each room that looks best during the time of day you use it the most. What about using a wallpaper to make a statement accent wall? Or a wood accent wall with picture frame moulding or shiplap/beadboard, gallery wall with a creamy ultra light white. good luck to you. (Kylie M Interiors is a color expert, her videos are very informative on sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore and she shows you undertones and how to match colors)