The quick and easy fix for broken sash cords is sash springs. They do hold the windows open, but also make them more difficult to move.

As usual, the link is for information, and isn't meant as an endorsement of either the product or the vendor.

Good question, Greg. Maybe someone in the audience knows what 'functional' means. I don't want to call my inspector -- that would raise a red flag - lol! I presumed it referred to 'safe functionality' (just assuming): that the window must be able to stay up on it's own - for example if a child were to open it, put his hand on the ledge but then the window slammed shut, on its own-- that would not be functioning 'properly'. But if that is not the case, I really like your idea to put some sort of latch to hold it up -- but that would be limiting (could only open to a certain height - no flexibility) -- but I'd do that if that is all it would need to pass the COA! If I fail, I can ask the inspector if that would be enough to pass and put them up then. :-)

I'd also question whether it means "all windows required for egress regulations are functional" (or whatever the term is).

Because there are windows in my home that don't open. They were designed that way. They aren't supposed to open.

It seems weird that you could replace your double-hung 'non-functional' windows with just fixed-in-place windows and pass the requirement.

But I guess you can't expect all this red tape to be reasonable. :)

Here is what I found regarding COA in my state: "Every window, other than a fixed window, shall be capable of being easily opened and shall be held in position by window hardware (sash cords etc.)." :-(

I'd consider an add-on latch to be 'window hardware'.

It doesn't say "original window hardware". :)

Take a look at this video - at about 1:45 - you don't have to remove all the trim - just the 'stop'.

Replace Window Weight

Thanks, Geoffrey -- that's the problem! At the beginning of the video, he unscrews two 'buttons' on each side of the window frame - I think he called them 'stop beads' ? He then easily removed the trim to expose the weight/rope access area. None of my windows have those screws! I have searched everywhere for something that looks like the trim can easily be removed (and put back on) to provide access to the rope/weights - but they do not exist on any of my windows, in the entire house. Instead my windows have trim that are secured by finishing nails, as you would do for any other permanent trim (that you anticipate you may have to replace if you try to remove at a later date; even if you gently pry it with a putty knife, they sometimes can snap -- why they would do that, is beyond me!). When my friend tried to remove the trim for the other (painted) window, he actually had to remove first the trim and then the entire molding to get to the rope and weight slot. It was crazy - and took a huge amount of time and effort. Yes, he was able to reuse all the pieces, but one or two snapped and had to be glued and puttied. Again, not a huge problem since I plan to paint them -- but when you have 100 year old stain (see the video - that is what I have), it just can't be repaired or duplicated - plus mine are much more intricate compared to the one window in the video - they are a series of 4 windows). I can't believe whoever built this house really thought those ropes would last as long as the house would! But thanks for your help :-)

@DavidR - oh my - I missed your response!! This sounds exactly what I need! I haven't a clue how to install them or how they work, but maybe I can find a YouTube video on that. Thank you!!

Talk to the local preservation group or realtor who sells many older houses. Fixing double hung windows is an issue that comes up regularly and ask around for local guidance. Those folks might have a suggestion or knowledge of how other homeowners have solved the issue or who is the local go to person for working on old windows

I have used jamb liners in older windows but installing them also requires removing the window stop. In my experience, only higher end windows had the screws in the window stop, most were nailed in place. In my previous house, the window stop had a small metal oval piece with a short slot so the screw could be loosened and the stop moved out or pushed tight for seasonal variation. Those were expensive windows as they had built in weather stripping channels and brass sash chains.

Average windows had nailed trim which can be quite an adventure to remove, as you know. Trim can be removed but it takes an incredible amount of patience and several tools. Start with a super flexible putty knife slid in between the pieces the entire length of the trim. Then switch up to a stiff putty knife, then a 5in1, then you can get a small pry bar in the gap.

This is easily fixed. First use a 'shop knife' (has a razor blade for a knife). Go around both sides of the stop (to cut the paint film). Then use a putty knife to pry off the stops.

You are making an mountain out of a mole hill. This is not hard.

@doug - ha ha! tell that to my friend who spent hours prying off the trim and molding - no way to access the weight/rope without removing the molding. I'm going along with LyndeeLee -- not a high end home in a working class area -- they must have cut a lot of corners on my home. :-)

I haven't a clue how to install them or how they work, but maybe I can find a YouTube video on that.

It's pretty easy.. You open the window fully and prop it open. Then you push the spring up between the sash and the frame, and drive either a common nail or a flathead screw through the hole in the spring's tab to hold it in place against the bottom of the sash.

You can also push the spring down from the top of the sash, but then the tab shows.

Do just one side of the sash first. I start with the left side, for no particular reason. If one spring doesn't hold the window up well enough, put a second spring on the other side the same way.

If the springs make the window so stiff that it's nearly impossible to open, just rub some paraffin wax on the frame sides to lubricate them.

Maybe try posting on the Old House forum. Our windows aren't quite the same but if we managed to replace our sash cords ... I'd bet you could do it too, because neither husband nor I are terribly handy.

@nickel - did your windows have the screws to remove the trim? If not, do you mind sharing your process? Thx!

pictures would help

I'll post some pic's soon ... let me get organized. But pic's of where you are getting stuck would be very helpful too, for the more expert people here (I'm not counting myself as an expert by any means!!!)

To get started, what I'd call "trim" or the "front stop" (because it stops the sash from falling out!) is the wood strip in front of my yellow sticky note. It was held on with finish nails, it pried off okay with patience and care. Do you see on the white part about 5 inches up, there is a cut line and a screw above it? That's what I've heard called a "pocket door". One the trim is pried off, the full pocket door is exposed and it's a matter of unscrewing the pocket door to get access to the weight pocket.

Once you have your pocket doors off, it looks like this. (Note that if you have two windows side by side, you only need to remove the pocket door from one of the middle sides to access all four weights. That saved us time, once we learned that lesson.) A 'duck bill pliers' was invaluable for removing the parting stop -- we found ours in a big box store near the sheet metal tools. Now if your

Are we on the right track? I'll hold off "helping" any more for a bit...!

Thank you, nickel_kg! I think this will invaluable for all of us! My windows look exactly like this (4 windows side by side). What you have in your photos are perfect -- no need to go any further. Thank you so very much!