For those of you who want to know how fast to run an engine in relation to the length of the blade, allow me to post these calculations: ANSI B71.1-1964 and earlier standards: For 18" blade: 4456 (4250) rpm max 19" blade: 4222 (4000) rpm max 20" blade: 4011 (3800) rpm max 21" blade: 3820 (3600) rpm max 22" blade: 3646 (3450) rpm max ANSI B71.1-1968 standard and revisions thereafter: For 18" blade: 4032 (3800) rpm max 19" blade: 3820 (3600) rpm max 20" blade: 3629 (3400) rpm max 21" blade: 3456 (3250) rpm max 22" blade: 3299 (3100) rpm max Maximum speed ranges which have at least a 200 rpm subtraction from the real limit, as represented in parentheses, may be used with respect to fluctuations in readings on your tachometers. Maximum recommended operating speeds may vary by engine model. Many Tecumseh 4-cycle rotary mower engines have a maximum recommended speed of 3200 rpm, whereas maximum torque may occur either at this point or at either 2600 or 2900 rpm. ~Ben

The centrifugal weight gov is in the crankcase. It is driven by a cam gear. On Many Vertical shaft engines it doubles as the oil slinger for engine lubrication. On horizontal engines it is simply a gov. It has absolutely no similarity to the air vane gov except for the control spring which indeed can be tweaked to alter maximum speed by bending the mounting tab on many engines. On others bending a tab is not possible but other forms of adjusting are incorporated. Air vane governors are the cheapest and simplest and also the least responsive/accurate. Any of them you need to make sure they are working right before tweaking on the control spring. Sticky linkage on all, clogged cooling fins on air vane types, Static setting and internal parts on mechanical/flyweight/centrifugal weight types. All but a couple of low end Briggs no longer use air vane types. There is a third type used on gen-sets where even more accurate engine speeds are desired. These are electic servo governors. This style uses what in effect are computers that process info and tells the servo where to set the carb throttle. These are found, amoung others, on Honda's Invertor style gen-sets. Your Honda GCV-160 can have virtualy any of the problems as Imention before. However, based on experience the problem is likely an assembly caused situation. The link between the gov arm and carb only works with one orientation, flip the link and it binds. Installing the jig saw puzzle of insulator block, gaskets and heat shield behind the carb can cause an air leak which causes a lean run and possible over revving. The carb bowl drain tube can interfer with the gov spring if not assembled right. If the gov arm was loosened or removed from the output shaft it needs to have the static setting re-done. These are all incorrect assembly caused problems that I often see from well meaning DIY'ers.

Most likely the governor slipped out of position when you had the sump off. I can send you a PFD of the Service Manual if you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me, model number, etc. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

Scal  The jumper I refer to is a jumper on the aqualink circuit board itself. This jumper setting tells the control interface chip on the board how to control the 2 speed relay. The jumper is labeled as "2 speed pump" in the installation manual and the location of the jumper is also called out in the installation manual. From your original description, the system is configured properly and the "2 speed jumper" has been enabled correctly to control the 2 speed filter pump so that it starts in high speed all the time for the first 2 minutes. You originally wanted to know how to switch from low speed to high speed without turning the pump off. It sounds like it is now doing what you wanted based on your latest response "The High speed is already ON in teh above case. Selecting the low speed toggles the pump to low speed. Turning low speed OFF turns the pump back ON in high speed." This is how the Jandy system works and is what I meant by the low speed button switching from low to high speed on the fly. It will also switch from high to low speed on the fly and vice versaÂ.sorry for the confusion. Maybe the original problem was due to trying to switch speeds during the initial 2 minutes of pump starting. The system will not allow this to happen if the "2 speed jumper" is enabled on the board. Once the initial 2 minute start period is over, then switching back and forth from high to low is done with the low speed button. For your particular need to turn high speed on in the middle of the day, this is pretty straight forward once the Jandy 2 speed control logic above is understood. Example, if you want to turn the filter pump on at 10:00 am and run low speed until 1:00pm, then go to high speed from 1:00pm to 3:00 pm, then back to low speed from 3:00pm to 6pm, the program sequence will be: Filter pump "ON" at 10:00am and "OFF" at 6:00pm. Low Speed Program 1 "ON" at 10:00am and "OFF" at 1:00pm Low Speed Program 2 "ON" at 3:00pm and "OFF" at 6:00pm This will run the filter pump for 8 hours per day with high speed operation for 2 hours in the middle of the day and low speed operation for 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon without shutting the pump off completely when changing speeds. Just remember, the filter pump will always start in high speed for the first 2 minutes so donÂt be alarmed when this happens. After the first 2 minutes, then the pump will behave as desired. This all assumes a comfort level with programming the RS6. Your PB may be able to help with programming if needed or a call to Jandy will certainly help with programming the RS6. Sorry for the long winded response. Hope this helps.