Right now, the most economical and efficient (greenest) general lighting for a kitchen is T8 linear fluorescent fixture(s) with electronic ballast(s). They're the absolute champs of efficacy, with lumens per watt in the 100 to 110 range! Neither compact fluorescents nor LEDs can match them. They also give nice, even, shadow-free lighting, which makes tasks easier. It's a HUGE improvement over the stark, shadowy lighting from recessed cans. It's a darn shame that fluorescents have such a bad reputation. They don't deserve it. Today's fluorescent lamps and fixtures are vastly improved over the ghastly cool white kitchen monsters that we used to see in the 1970s and 1980s, even into the '90s. I think the lousy light quality of the old fluorescents (still used in many offices and stores) is the main reason that fluorescents are out of fashion. Now that linear fluorescents are much improved, I wouldn't be too surprised if they come back into fashion as electricity rates continue to rise. LEDs may match them in efficacy eventually (and they have other advantages), but I don't see that happening for several years yet - and it will be still more years before LEDs can match linear fluorescents' initial price and operation cost. BTW, if you want even more economical lighting, tell your supplier to use electronic programmed start ballasts. These do have a significantly higher initial cost, but you get it back and then some, because they give much longer lamp life (~15,000 starts vs ~50,000 starts). The energy use and startup appearance are very similar to that of electronic instant start ballasts.

Without knowing what is being lit and other considerations (initial / operating cost, expected service lifetime, building limitations, portability to a new location ...), it would be difficult to say if something else would be better. If you're open to considering alternatives, lighting vendors such as CSL lighting, Philips/ Color Kinetics, pixi-lighting, nu-world distribution, ... have a wide range of products to look at

Probably too late for this poster from almost a year ago, but in a similar situation, I just found current limiters that have been developed for J and H type track lighting (Juno / Halo and other compatibles). Search for "va rating integral current limiter". VA stands for Volt Amperage. The ones I found readily were Juno and Nora brands. So now you can limit the power that can be used (and that will count against you in the Title 24 calculations) and with new LED fixtures that use so few watts, you can easily have enough light even with much lower limit. (1A limiter would still give you 120W at 120V). Most LED pendants that I've seen are in the range of 3-7W each. It's still not considered "high-efficiency", (because someone could put incandescent or halogen fixtures on the track - although now limited) but can be balanced out by other high efficiency fixtures - either LED or fluorescent - that you are able to install elsewhere in the kitchen. Can't wait to tell the electrician... and can't believe I found this on my own despite all the lighting "experts" telling me it couldn't be done!

The addition already has a loft incorporated. Also, as stated in a previous response, it is not a pop top design. It has taken months with multiple design revisions to maintain the character of the home. I am already working with the historical society and the architect specializes in historical homes. The reason behind the outside spiral stairs is simple. 1) My current house is only 742sqft, inside stairs would have taken up more than half of my office space. 2) Again, my lot size is pretty small and incorporating traditional stairs would work; however they take up a significant amount of space. It is hard to give up the little "green space" that I currently have. Worst case scenario, if my parents come to visit and they eventually have problems getting up and down the stairs, they can use my room and I will use the space upstairs. Again, the space upstairs is more of a guest suite and for moments where I can take in a nice evening sunset. And if I eventually get tired of the spiral stairs, I can incorporate regular stairs. But back to the original concern, I spoke with my architect and he is looking into incorporating the "plexiglass" or whatever you would like to call it floor sections where the dormers/skylights are located. I understand that it will not give me the same amount of light that I have now, but it should be able to resolve the issue. Thanks for all the comments and ideas.