Yuccas are not good low light plants, although some retailers will try to sell them as such. Ten feet from a window is low light and that is the primary problem. Inadequate light causes a plant to slowly starve so symptoms often take a long time to appear. The plant gradually sacrifices older leaves so it can continue to support new growth. Better light is the only answer for you and it will take quite some time for it to stop shedding older leaves and gradually recover. Will Creed mrmothernature@gmail.com

Hi Sonorablu, Your agave is the Agave americana, often called the Century Plant and a stunning example of a widely diverse group of succulents. They require deep, infrequent watering (so that the moisture soaks down at least two feet) once every three to four weeks in the summer and not at all in the winter. If you are using a spray head to water this plant, switch to a drip emitter so the water does't fall on the leaves. You may need to run your drip system for several hours to push the moisture down that far into the ground. Although these plants normally live a long time, in southern Arizona they are very vulnerable to damage from the agave snout weevil. This beetle lays its eggs in the maturing plant, usually 1-2 years before it's due to bloom. The larvae munch on the tissues introducing a bacteria which causes collapse and rotting of the plant. Pups aren't usually affected. Your yucca (it looks like Yucca elata or Soaptree Yucca) will live to bloom again. The flowers are pollinated by the yucca moth, who hides in the flower during the day, emerging at dusk to pollinate the flowers which bloom at night. The flowers are edible. The roots of this plant were used by native people to make a frothy soap. Be sure to leave the dry lower leaves on the stalk as they protect the plant from heat and cold. Try and resist the urge to prune your citrus. They are really large shrubs and do best if the canopy is allowed to grow nearly to the ground. Citrus are extremely vulnerable to sunburn. If you must prune, do so carefully, always removing a branch where it intersects with another branch or stem. Do not use sealants on the pruning cut - allow the wound to remain open to the air. Don't prune in the fall as branches left on the tree will protect it from winter cold. The best time to prune is in March. I've included a link to the U of A website in Maricopa County. They have a wealth of information that should work in La Paz County as well. I hope this helps. aztreelvr Certified Arborist Master Gardener Here is a link that might be useful: U of A Publications on citrus and more

Fear Not Deb. we have this happen all the time, people ask me to remove over grown Yucca's and Agaves all the time.. Of course the more of the main tap you retain the better, but you can cut some of that main tap and be OK, as long as you have secondary roots off the main tap you should be fine,, your Yucca will go into shock from being ripped outta its lill spot on earth.. but over time with care it will be happy in its new location.. "Heal in" your Yucca in its new location,, get it planted but don't water it for a day or two, allow the main tap to heal,, then what we do it is flood it to insure all or any air pockets are out of the root areas, after this we add them on our regular irrigation schedule, here in AZ we water them once every 4th day in the summers (small amounts of water)

looks healthy! if it's a perminant house plant you'll have to keep turning the pot so it doesn't get the lean. I don't see there being a mother stalk as it was cut back a while back by the looks of it. You can cut back the three shoots to whatever height you desire and root the part you cut off if you want.