Stick with a foliar application after getting a leaf analysis done to see if you need anything. It looks to me like your soil test is reflective of adding large quantities of manure--most nutrients are very high, and many nutrients can act as substitutes. High levels of one nutrient can result in a deficiency of another in the plant, not because the nutrient is lacking but because another is present in such high levels that the plant takes it up in excess instead, leaving a deficiency. I've had personal experience with this in my garden. After applying large quantities of manure for several years, my soil tests showed nutrient levels were all very high, my pH came down a few tenths (mid 7's instead of high 7's to low 8's), and I started developing symptoms of zinc deficiency even though the soil test showed it was "very high" in the soil. A shot of foliar zinc cleared up the problem and I backed off on the manure. After that, my salt levels declined dramatically, also. Your soil calcium levels are good and the boron levels are right where you want them, so any deficiency is probably due to an uptake problem. As said, boron can become very toxic very quickly. I would never add boron to the soil at a rate higher than 2 lbs/acre because of the risk of getting too much--at a presence of 4lbs/ac. in the soil, you would be killing it. Manure tends to be very high in salts from the urine and your sodium levels are fairly high. You should continue to hold off on manure applications for a few years and make sure the soil is well watered when watered to help wash the sodium out through natural drainage. All the organics you added will decay over time and you will need to add soil or additional organic matter (leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc) to keep the soil level up. If you continually add a lot of organics, the organic component of the soil will increase due to the higher supply. If you stop, it will decrease over time to natural levels based on how much vegetative matter normally falls on or grows in the soil. Natural topsoil will run from a few inches to several feet thick. Under that, you get a mineral soil based on what nature provided. I wouldn't worry about a yellowish sand several feet down. The plants are getting most of their nutrients from the top foot, and the sand may help provide drainage.

That is not the manufacturers site. They bought the turf trust domain name the turf trust official site is being overhauled. You can order it from www.roozensonline.com free shipping for orders over $75 and shipped same day.

What do you mean by 'came out red'? A plant will set fruit the same color all season, but, most ripen from the color they start out to something else (green to red, green to orange, etc...). It's not like the early peppers start out green, and later on the peppers *start* out red. At least not in general. Maybe a fluke happens from time to time.

JMO but maybe try searching common sense and learn from those with real experience. Gardening is not that difficult.