mine are also very close. I don't have an issue. the main one to be concerned about is the dryer vent. I'm limited on my depth, so had to choose a dryer that didn't come out too far. If you try and move it too far back against the wall, the vent hose and gas line can become crimped. not good.

Are those your current machines in the pic? Have they been OK like that? If so, then getting the 27" models should be fine. Or, you could try looking for newer 'used' machines. Or, if looking at brand new models, get the slimmest ones you can find. You probably won't be able to get the front loader. (top loaders are easier to care for)

The other option is stackable. you'd have to remove the cabs and do built in shelving vertically.

My maytag front loaders would fit but you wouldn't be able to put a counter over them because the controls stick up on the back. And they are on a platform and touching each other. You can fold on top of them. You might get a little more width if you removed the baseboard there. What depth do you have? It looks tight with the door. Usually the narrower ones are a little deeper.

Miele washer (W1) and dryer (T1) are only about 24" wide, if I remember correctly. So, that would probably fit.

The downside is that, as always, Miele is much more expensive. But it might be cheaper than paying a contractor to rearrange your walls.

I don't know much about Miele's washer other than a) it's very different from all other washers, and b) after the initial learning curve, people absolutely love it.

Thanks very much for the replies!

I'd really like to get the 27" ones if they'll fit. I went to our appliance store and checked out the Miele and other 24" wide machines, but they seemed awfully small for our needs. Beth H, yes those are our current washer & dryers in the photo (Fisher & Paykel, 25-1/2" wide each). There is quite a bit of space as far as depth goes (40"), so I don't think the depth will be a problem. suzyq53, the measurement is with the baseboards removed. :( We thought about the stackable option but I wanted to research all options to see if I could get the side-by-side, front loaders to work out. Thanks again for the great suggestions and info!

If those are your current washer & dryer, those are hardly "inefficient".

Your F&P dryer is 27", the washer is 25.5".

I have five F&P pairs (two myself [one agitator set, one HE/impeller set], parents, nephew/wife, and a spare set bought used stored in my garage). As BobA1 says, the washer is considered very efficient for energy usage, good+ for water usage on the Normal cycle with the default Shower Rinse, and reasonable on the other cycles. It's also nicely full featured. Spin speed is 1,010 RPM which is at the top range of toploaders. It has five water level choices which is more than majority of toploaders nowadays ... the latest agitator models from Speed Queen, Maytag, and Whirlpool have only choices for approx half-fill and maximum fill.

Anyway ... frontloaders are your only sure choice for increased efficiency, and most HE/impeller toploaders (efficient depending on how you use them, many people are dissatisfied with the low-water aspect and use primarily the deep-fill Bulky cycle which takes as much water or more as your F&P).

The 27" Maytag MHW8200FW washing machine and MED8200FW clothes dryer are a well-rated pair by Consumer Reports. The Dimension Guides recommend, but do not appear to require, 1" spacing "to reduce noise transfer". Guides: MHW8200FW, MED8200FW.

I advise to NOT allow the machines to touch each other. Vibrations during operation will abrade the finish at the point(s) of contact ... unless you're not concerned about that.

Fortunately, the Maytag MHW8200FW has a "Very Good" rating in vibration. I hope the measurement of the room's width considered the baseboards.

Doesn't matter about the machine's rating. We had an old-style (1976) WP toploader pair. The washer never got off-balance enough to "walk," and dryers of course don't do that at all. Simple vibration/resonance of the metal cabinets against each other from the motors/mechanisms running over a period of 3 to 4 years (when the machines were moved to another house and the effect of the contact was directly observed) abraded / scratched the finishes. I've seen it "in the field" as well.

All good advice above.

In addition, you say your home is 1929 vintage--is the laundry room in the basement? You also need to make sure that you can fit the appliances through any of the doorways, which in my 1924 home is only 26" wide :(

Watch the Maytag sizing. Their dryers tend to be 29” wide!

Oh, just realized that is on top load styles. Presumably front load styles would be the same so they can stack.

I wonder what size these are.

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FYI front loader washers can handle a much larger load that top loaders so don’t assume the smaller ones won’t work and also the spin on many is much better so clothes dry faster too.

If you need big capacity, the Miele won't do it for you. My partner's Mom has a Miele set and always brings her comforter to me because it won't fit in the Miele. In looking at your room, I bet you could remove the molding at the base of the wall on both sides and get another few inches of clearance. It should not cost much at all to do.

I just got a newer Samsung top load washer. it's only 26" . no agitator. I can fit loads of laundry in there, even blankets and comforters. A friend works at Lowes, so we got it for $400. couldn't pass up the deal. I still have my older maytag dryer, and that's a little over 27".

so, look at the newer top loaders. I'm sure you can make those work.

Electrolux has front loaders which require zero clearance. this space mine are in is 57.5" but they could fit in a few inches smaller. Vibration is pretty minimal for a front loader, they'd be okay up against a wall.

I think it would be worth considering a top load washer. We have an LG set with a top load washer. Both w/d are exactly 27" and can easily handle large loads.

Thanks for the additional replies, all! Diana Bier, the laundry room is between the kitchen and the back door of our house, so luckily it's not in the basement. armjim, the width IS with the baseboard removed :( Beth H, I was looking around on the Samsung site and didn't see a washer that was 26" Do you know the model number? DrB477, that is very useful info! I checked the installation manual of a full-size Electrolux washer and dryer and it did say zero clearance!

WA52M8650AW/A4 I got it a year or so ago. might be an older model that was on clearance Samsung activewash, SuperSpeed SmartCare VRTplus

also, these look on the narrower side

The standard laundry alcove has been 60” for years and years. For a reason. The machines need space around them.

GreenDesigns, I checked and that's exactly what ours is. However, it was a tight squeeze at our previous home. Though not ideal, we never had any problems.

Remember you need proper ventilation space on all sizes around the machines, and the manufacturers recommendations aren't always the same, so be sure to look up the specifics so as not to overwork the machines and void the warranty. Personally, I'll never use a top loading washer again, so my recommendation would be to remove the cabinetry, stack a pair of full size machines, and put a tall cabinet (built in, or free standing) beside them.

Totally helpful comment<---- sarcasm. Obviously the OP's isn't, hence the reason for posting.

In principle, knowing that they are only off by less than 5 inches from the standard dimensions could be helpful. That's likely just about the amount that a creative contractor could shave off. Open the walls, turn the studs by 90°, use thinner sheetrock, and maybe just push the wall over a tiny amount, and you are there. Then maybe fill the walls with spray foam to give them back some of the rigidity that they lost in the process.

In practice, this is going to be prohibitively expensive unless the room was intended to have a full remodel anyway.

So, yeah, you are right. That's not super helpful. And that's why I originally suggested looking into getting Miele washers/dryers. The higher purchase price is easily made up for by the cost savings of not having to completely gut the laundry room and remodeling it. Sounds as if there are a few other more compact alternatives, though. Good to know.

So you want to replace an older, working W/D set with a new "high efficiency" set? Have you done any math to see what your actual water and electricity savings would be? I'll bet it's nil, and you'll never recover the purchase price in any fictional savings due to "efficiency." Don't fall prey to new appliance marketing. Only replace if they're irreparably broken.

zmith, no, we want to replace a washer and dryer that have had a lot of problems and have had to be repaired many times since we've been in this house (6 years). But your point about water and electrical usage is a good one, and is something that I will also look into when we try to find replacements.

Kmasj, understood. :) Another thing I wanted to point out is your baseboards are taking up some of the wall space. Don't forget to account for those when trying to find machines that will fit. I regret that I don't have any W/D options to offer you.

FYI, the top load Speed Queen washer is 25 5/8" wide and the dryer is 26 7/8". Rated as 26' & 27", respectively. IOW's the SQ washer is just a smidge wider than the F&P one that you have and the SQ dryer is the same size as the F&P.

I have a SQ toploader, an older (7-8 YO) mechanical model, bought new. No problems with it at all.