Builder changed cedar to Hardie plank.... thoughts?
Desiree Ashton
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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millworkman
4 years agoSnaggy
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Can I See Your....Stucco/Stone or HardiPlank/Stone Exteriors?
Comments (12)From housee From housee From housee Here are a few pics of the house we just built. Sorry for the quality. They were taken when it was quite dark. We used stone on the front with shakes. But to the left of the front entrance, in the covered area, as well as the entire back of the house, we used hardi plank with shakes near the top . We also used the hardi plank/shake combo on the carriage house. We did not use real stone for any of the outside work. We used the fake stuff which saved tons of money because of the ease of installation. If you click on the pics they will get larger. By the way we were not quite finished building when these pics were taken. We are missing the balcony on the front....See MoreHardie Plank vs Certainteed
Comments (21)I have Hardiplank on SEVEN homes which I own. Speaking from experience the James Hardy product is pure junk. It is highly hydroscopic, meaning iT absorbs water readily. Once the siding has absorbed water, paint peeling is the likely result. We observe that on the south, west and eastern sides of our homes paint peeling is generally less of a problem as the sun exposure warms the siding and drives out most of the moisture absorbed in a heavy rain. The northern exposures are a different situation and that's where paint peeling is the biggest problem. In coastal locations Hardiplank is at its worst. Wind driven rain will force its way behind the siding and will often find its way behind the laps and will literally get between the siding and the paint forming large balloons under the paint filled with water! These balloons can be as large as a foot or two wide and unbelievably can hold 4-6 ounces of water for months until the peeling sets in. You pop the balloon and water runs down the side of the home! Additional areas where paint peeling and Hardiplank delamination often occur are any location where there is a high 'slash' effect off of gable roofs or splash from decks or porches back onto this siding. iF YOU READ THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, THEY WANT YOU TO KEEP THE PRODUCT 'X' INCHES AWAY FROM DECKS AND ROOF SURFACES, HOWEVER THIS ISJUST NOT PRACTICAL IN MANY CASES. In a real sense this is Hardy's own admission that the product is not suited for geographic areas of the US which receive a fair amount of rain due to water absorption. I've read lots of painters saying the problem is the paint. Over the years, we've tried all the major brands including Behr and Sherwin Williams and numerous others, and in our experience the paint makes little to no difference. In our view the product is not suitable as an exterior siding unless the structure is located in an arid environment like the southwest. Many homeowners have been told it's an installation problem. Except in the rarest cases, I do not believe it. I have seen rampant delamination of the product 2" from a patio surface and 20' above as well. I have experienced the butt joints open up as much as 3/4 of an inch on hot southern exposures. All this means that the product is swelling and shrinking constantly and inherently causes paint to peel as a result. In short, the product does not appear to be suited for the purpose for which it is intended: SIDING. I would not put it on a dog house!...See MoreExterior materials - HardiePlank, Cedar shakes, Stone and Brick
Comments (9)Cutting a house horizontally in half with different materials is a look best left to the production McMansions of the boom. If you are going to choose different materials to accent the build, you should choose elements to clad in it completely. And NEVER do "just the front" of the house in stone or brick with a cheaper material elsewhere. If you are going to use stone or brick, clad the entire box of the structure in that material. The expense of doing correctly like that is why most people choose one of a facade's bumpouts to use that material on and save the less expensive material for the main box. That is what your inpiration photo shows. The stone goes from bottom to top and is on the whole element to be accented, not cutting it in half....See MoreHardi Plank worth considering?
Comments (5)I have used Abatron for years; it's great! I use the Liquid Wood epoxy, but not the white wood filler (Woodepox, IIRC), which is expensive, and feather weight, which tells me there is not much substance to it. Instead, I use sawdust and mix in enough of the Liquid Wood epoxy to form a thick paste, and apply it like putty. When it hardens, it can be sanded, sawed and will take screws and hold paint, and looks very much like the wood it replaced. For extra fine work like interior trim, I use sanding dust instead of sawdust; often it is impossible to tell where the repair was made. The local millworks were glad to give me all the sawdust I wanted for the trouble of sweeping it up since it saved them having to clean it up. For sanding dust, I have used what I was able to collect from my orbital sander. Some of the exterior repairs I made with the epoxy/sawdust combination have been exposed to the elements for about 5 years now, and so far I see no signs of peeling paint, or cracks developing between the original wood and the epoxy/sawdust filler. I used another brand of epoxy about 20 years ago to repair a rotted window sill and it likewise shows no signs of deterioration. Warning: do not allow Liquid Wood to contact your skin. The first couple of years I used it, I was careless about using protective gloves, got it all over my hands, and just washed it off afterwards. Then one spring I got a severe case of poison ivy rash, and ever since, contact with Liquid Wood produces a rash similar to that of poison ivy. I read some articles about sensitivity to epoxy, which indicated that prolonged or frequent exposure will generate sensitivity resulting in an allergic reaction. I suspect the poison ivy triggered the reaction, but if I had carefully followed the recommended precautions I probably wouldn't be sensitive to it. Even with protective gloves I still sometimes get a reaction resulting in a severe rash all over my fingers. Regarding the Hardi Plank, if the original vertical trim is still in good shape I would recommend keeping it and just replacing the horizontal siding with the Hardi Plank. The siding is warranted for 50 years, but the trim boards are warranted only for something like 10 years. I had the addition to another building re-sided with Hardi several years ago. The vertical trim is very fragile and brittle, and has little strength. I saved some left over and stored it in a damp crawl space, and it disintegrates with moisture. I was able to attach a storm door to the vertical trim by drilling 1/4" holes, filling them with epoxy, and installing the screws in the epoxy (pre-drilling the screw holes). The Hardi trim would not hold screws. Another warning: do not use a regular high speed steel drill bit to bore holes into Hardi Plank. It will quickly wear off the edge of the drill bit and ruin it, unless you are skilful and patient enough to properly re-sharpen drill bits....See MoreBT
4 years agogalore2112
4 years agoMrs Pete
4 years agoDesiree Ashton
4 years agoatay284
4 years agomnmamax3
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agochiflipper
4 years agoDesiree Ashton
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBrad Smith
4 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
4 years agoDesiree Ashton thanked Jeffrey R. Grenz, General ContractorHALLETT & Co.
4 years agolexma90
4 years agoSonya Oden
4 years agogreenfish1234
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSonya Oden
4 years agogreenfish1234
4 years agoDesiree Ashton
4 years agogroveraxle
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