How deep should I bury bamboo to support cucumbers and tomatoes?
Ariel (Zone: 7b)
4 years ago
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lilyd74 (5b sw MI)
4 years agoAriel (Zone: 7b)
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Cheap and effective cucumber/bean/tomato supports?
Comments (11)I like bamboo. It's cheap....usually free, it's effective....used for centuries, and it's a multi-tasker. Tie 3-4 poles together at the small end to make a tepee. Weave/tie several poles together into a lattice work trellis. Tie pairs on each side of a horizontal pole and raise it like a tent. Stick a single pole in the ground and use as a stake. And when you're not using it in the garden you can use it as a fishing pole to catch something to go with all those veggies.....and the fish carcass makes good fertilizer....See MoreAdvice for burying tomato containers and maintaining wicking?
Comments (13)Thanks guys for all the input, it is really helpful. Silvia - I know it is just a community garden, but I enjoy making it look nice and it is something I willing to spend a little money on so I am planning to do a trellis along the back for staking. Silvia and Tom - I am intrigued by the paper bag idea you and Tom suggested. I have fairly unlimited access partially composted (I wouldn't call it completely composted) horse manure supplied by the park district. I added almost 30 wheelbarrows full to my first plot and didn't get any burn symptoms. Could I use some of this in the bags or would it have to be exclusively the normal mix of peat, perlite, fines etc? I am assuming that if I use plastic containers, I should stick to strictly the potting mix. Would there be any advantage to using containers vs. bags since I have the containers already? Also, Tom I tried to investigate as much as I could about your double bucket system before posting this. You use a reverse reservoir right with the outer bucket completely intact? How could I use a more simple set up? If I do sink the containers I should line underneath with newspaper right. I don't think there is any restrictions on containers, several people have earth boxes and other large containers on their plots. The whole thing seems pretty laissez-faire. I do visit the plot almost every day. I work as a tutor and am often driving through in addition to having a lot of extra flexible time during the day. I have been watering everyday for the past couple of weeks. However, this has mainly been to nurse the lettuce through the heat. Everything else can currently go 2 days or more (I think because of the added manure, peat, and perlite). In the past, I have only had to water the containerized super sweet 100s when they got over 5/6 feet. But, in either case, I plan to be out there pretty frequently. Amberroses - I have some of the cherries purchases already but am definitely looking into resistant varieties for the rest. Someone at the garden today suggested Beefmaster, Better Boy, Ofri?, and Charger. I think there was one other one, but I can't remember. He said these transplants are available at the earthbox store in Ellenton. I am including some before and after pics of my first plot started late January, partially so you can get an idea of the size and partially because I am just still so excited about it:) Once amended, the soil line is now about 2-3" above the sides....See Morebamboo support
Comments (12)I tied up two of the A-frames (for the ends) and attached the cross piece to those and got them buried to a depth I liked. (It takes two people to do it this way....the structure isn't stable until some of the remaining A-frames are attached.) I then tied up the remaining A-frames and installed them along the length of the structure, pushing them into the ground so they just touched the top cross piece. I used stout twine to bind the tips together, and zip ties to attach the top piece to the A-frames. Once it's all assembled it's very stable so long as all the bindings are tight. I planted one tomato at the base of each bamboo pole, on the inside. Don't know if it would make any difference where you plant relative to the pole, but I assumed it would be easier to train them this way. It worked fine. The plants become so bushy that I doubt if it matters much where you plant relative to the support poles. No noticeable problems from shading or crowding, although like I mentioned it became a thicket. Tying or pruning errant branches was necessary to get it trained, but I pretty much let it go its own way after the plants reached the top....See MoreWhere should I put this cherry tomato container? Stake vs cage?
Comments (4)labradors/Linda, I don't think we can move the upside down container. The iron stake is pretty deep into the ground as it is, and slightly bent due to storm damage, so I am weary of moving it, and have it secured to the staircase with jute. I wish I could hang it off a tree or something stronger! haha. Also, I live in a co-op, and the tree is on "our" side. It also gets significantly more sun here. How much, and what kind of a difference will it make if I transplant into a bigger container? I have read 5 gallons is the general rule, but seen so many people post online - and in person - with containers smaller than I am using. Either way, I think by the stairs will become the permanent spot. The container is hidden from street level by a bush in front, and there is already an upside down plant, there, so it won't look random if it's up against the steps. Agressive? Dang! I got cherries instead of bigger tomatoes for two reasons: I thought they'd be faster to grow, and I thought the plants would be smaller. ha! Thanks, you guys!...See MoreKris
4 years agoAriel (Zone: 7b)
4 years agoAriel (Zone: 7b)
4 years agogorbelly
4 years agoAriel (Zone: 7b)
4 years agogorbelly
4 years agoAriel (Zone: 7b)
4 years agogorbelly
4 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
4 years agogorbelly
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobeesneeds
4 years ago
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lilyd74 (5b sw MI)