I wouldn't mind having a better look at that wall before suggesting something with a lot of root mass, like daylilies or shrubs. There is not much lean on that wall and pressure from within is the last thing you want. I've been poking around my rock walls and garden lately and have noted how much root mass is tending to migrate to areas of consistent dampness. For example, I have a pot standing next to a plant that has a bulky root mass, and although the plant can grow best where there is light, the woody base has pushed itself under the pot. Quite intriguing. In your situation, this tendency is aggravated by the downhill slope, which is where water, and thus roots, will go. Therefore a plant that spreads by stolons would probably not grow uphill, but you may not want to risk it - so none of your Houttuynias or St. John's wort, for example. Something that mats, in contrast, could easily by mowed by the neighbour (or their mowing people). A couple of matting plants that I have had good success with are a spreading veronica (note to self and others: do NOT google "spreading veronica") and a matting dianthus with bright pink flowers. Not sure how they would handle full sun in your climate, but the moisture retention of the rock would help. I think the thymes would be OK too. Which way they spread would partly be determined by the sun - they would grow primarily toward it. I agree that the sedums are not as weed-suppressing as you might think. One that might be would be Sedum 'Angelique', and there are others. Sedum acre would probably also work - but as Yardvaark's description of how to root it suggests, it is rather easy to propagate and so your neighbour's mowing might get it all over her yard - so easy to miss a bit that falls. 'Angelique' will also root where it drops, but because it's bigger and not as fragile it is easier to control the bits. All ground covers need periodic haircuts to avoid getting leggy, woody, and sparse. KarinL

Hi Again, Did a bit of "research" and came up with this (among other things): -------------------- The major categories of beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are: Field, dry, or agronomic beans: The pod walls are thin, fibrous, tough, inedible, dehisce more readily. The dried seeds retain shape when cooked. Green, snap, string, or French beans: The pod walls are fleshy, edible, have little fiber, dehisce poorly. The dried seeds do not retain shape when cooked. Dual purpose or horticultural beans: The pods are fairly fleshy and generally edible. the dried seeds may be cooked and typically retain shape fairly well. Other "Beans" include: Runner Beans (Phaseolus coccineus) Lima Beans (Phaseolus lunatus) "Butterbeans" (Phaseolus lunatus) is a term used for certain small, flat seeded lima beans. There is no separate botanical classification for a butterbean. It is basically a description of the way that they are prepared for cooking. Whereas most limas are grown to the dry stage, butterbeans are shelled fresh while in the late green stage, cooked and buttered. Fava beans (Vicia faba) are not from the same family as other beans (Phaseolus). Their origin is reportedly the Mediterranean region and their history dates back to at least Biblical times. Favas are commonly known to Middle Eastern, Greek and Italian cooking. Hyacinth Beans (Dolichos Lablab) - Grown for ornament. Castor Beans (Ricinis communis) - Grown for ornament. Highly toxic. ------------------ Apparently the runner and fava beans aren't in the vulgaris species. OTOH, the vulargis species include regular snap bean which seem to been somewhat commonly eaten raw in the garden or lightly blanched before eating (I - as well as my dogs - have eaten many raw green snap beans with no ill effect). So I'm a bit confused. Guess I need to look into it some more. In the meantime, I guess I'll grow ALL of my beans on teepees in the regular beds rather than tempt fate by placing them up against the chain link. Anne

I'm with Bev, leave a path of lawn between the bed and the fence. Not only does it leave you an area that you can keep clean and attractive, it does let you cultivate to all edges. It also tells your neighbour you are not encroaching on her side of the fence which will happen if you put built-up soil on your side. Wood boarding can delineate edging near the fence and keep the soil in. Cutting the lawn there with a straight down edge can give a nice formal look if you wish to avoid any kind of edging material. Rocks or stones can also be considered. Bricks put at a 45� angle can be an attractive addition.

Good point arcy. We get along well with the neighbour and I am well versed in the art of persuasiveness. She has a tendency to do what she wants with her yard and not take us into account. A few years ago she built a deck without permits that is right up to the property line, if not over it. She closed in the base of the deck all around except on our side so we had to do it ourselves or be faced with a view of the garbage under her deck. We could have had the deck removed, but chose not to. She built her garden up beside the chain link fence so that the weight of the dirt caused the fence to push into my garden by about 6 inches. I pointed it out to her, and I helped her (actually, I did it, she watched) dig out the dirt and put in a solid barrier so it wouldn't happen again. So the upshot is, that I will present it to her in a persuasive manner. If she protests, I think I have enough leverage against her to make her see that we have put up with a lot from her, she can put up with this from us. If she wants her side painted black, I will happily do it for her. I've learned that with close neighbours, it is worth the extra effort to get along. It causes too much stress otherwise.