Fertilizer schedule
Rohit Naval
4 years ago
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Comments (11)
morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agoRohit Naval
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Blueberry fertilizing schedule
Comments (19)Dave, most commonly blueberries are installed with a lot of well mixed peatmoss which has a reputation for being acidifying but once it breaks down, not so much. After the installation an annual application of wood chips, preferably soft wood but whatever is available will insure a rich black soil over time (even if it's just on top). 2 or 3" is enough and at least 6 months of aging a plus. I was just reading the NAFEX list and another knowledgable grower stated the same about blueberries thriving in a relatively high pH....See MoreLawn fertilizer schedule
Comments (5)Caveat: The following are supported by at least some type of study (or possibly an informed opinion) by a university turf program or turf organization. Common to all cool season grasses: Root growth is at its maximum when soil temperatures are between 50 and 65F. (spring and fall) They exhibit a spring flush. Top growth slows/stops and they tend to go dormant in the heat of summer and when drought conditions are present. Top-growth slows significantly or stops in the fall. They can go dormant over the winter. They exhibit a tendency to store carbohydrates at various times for survival. (early summer to allow recover after drought dormancy and in late fall for recover after winter dormancy) Spring fertilization has been tied to increased susceptibility to disease. Specific to rhizome grasses -KB: They exhibit greater root growth during the fall/winter than during spring/summer. They exhibit greater spreading ability in the spring than in the fall. Fertilization programs are or should be designed to fit those characteristics. A late fall fertilization ( applied after top growth has significantly slowed or stopped--called winterizing) is pretty universally advised for all cool season grasses to promote root growth, carbohydrate storage and early spring green-up. A mid-late fall fertilization is optional but advised when needed to stimulate the turf and promote continued photosynthesis so the turf can efficiently use the winterizing application. This application should be avoided if it promotes continued top growth -suspected in the increased incidence of snow mold. A late summer fertilization is advised for all cool season grasses to help the the turf recover from summer dormancy and stress. It is applied after the turf begins to green up and top growth resumes. A late spring/early summer fertilization is advised for all cool season grasses to promote turf health, continued growth and carbohydrate storage to prepare the turf for the heat of summer. It should be applied once the spring flush dissipates. An early spring fertilization is sometimes recommended when a winterizing was not done the prior year. It can also be applied to rhizome grasses-KB to promote spreading when there are bare or thin areas throughout the lawn but should be avoided when those lawns are healthy and thick. The use of this application needs to be balanced with the increased chance of disease. It is advised that it never be applied to fescue lawns due to disease susceptibility. (It is also suspected that this application promotes top growth at the expense of root growth). The best schedule is one based on observation. Hope that helps you develop your program and schedule. This post was edited by yardtractor1 on Tue, Jun 3, 14 at 14:42...See MoreHelp with fertilizing schedule for veggie garden
Comments (2)Frequent applications of fertilizers is a hold over from the "conventional", or synthetic fertilizer, gardening concept where those fertilizers are highly water soluble and flow out of the soil and into the ground water as pollution and are not available to the plants growing there. If you get your soil inot a good healthy condition, well endowed with organic matter so the nutrient levels are not so readily availlable the Soil Food Web will convert the nutrients in that organic matter into the foods your plants need when they need it, as they need without the need to reapply "fertilizers" every so often. That is the objective of an organic gardener/farmer. When first starting, and before you get your soil into that good healthy condition you may need to apply a balanced, organic fertilizer which can be difficult to find, but whatever is used the label directions should be followed, closely....See MoreSeeds in Turface fines - fertilizing schedule?
Comments (5)Dave, I always just figured max sun possible for the seedlings, especially when it's not that hot right now. 72 tops? That or soil-borne reasons sound feasible; I am relatively certain it's not the seeds themselves as I have 6 from an earlier sowing that all made it and 12 more coming up right now without problems, so far, in pure Turface. But after reading your suggestion of sunburn, I peered into my seedlings in Turface and I kind of see some browning similar to that previous batch, as shown below. Does that look like sunburn possibly? Agreed on the feeding seedlings, but I guess I am more concerned solely because Turface has no nutrients vs. my regular seed mix would have some. I made a really weak batch of Foliage Pro in water (1/2 tsp for 40 ozs) in a spray bottle and spritzed them yesterday but perhaps this, too, is unnecessary. But yes, I realize that I wouldn't get many replies to this in terms of what to do. :-) but now I've learned I can burn my seedlings! :-) Susan, I never got any feedback re what it might be! (And to be clear, the green sprout was the normal one; the brown ones were the oddities, haha.) I have strong shiso going right now (6 weeks plus?) so I am really inclined to think it isn't the seeds themselves. But having said that, I'm still at a loss. I'd heard of damping off, but thought it affects the stems first. The stems remained upright and green until almost the end when they withered away and disappeared. The leaves changed color to brown while looking healthy in texture but towards the end, they dried up. Most bizarre. But in the end, dead is dead, and these were dead dead dead. Boo!...See Moremorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agoRohit Naval
4 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agomishmosh
4 years agoRohit Naval
4 years agodchall_san_antonio
4 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years ago
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