Count your blessings that it didn't loose it's leaves. It is an evergreen. Also, count your blessings that it is still dormant. It should not be pushing until mid May. It is what is called an iron clad. They are very tough plants. However, for many of us, this past winter they took a beating with the very unusual winters some of us had with warm weather followed by late freezes. They have what is more typical of drought damage but in this case was caused by the warm weather followed by late freezes. It causes Botryosphaeria dothidea which causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. This is the most common disease of rhododendron in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds. Here is a link that might be useful: Rhododendron and Azalea Troubleshooting

Rhodys grow with a surface network of fine (small) feeder roots, almost pancake like when established in the garden and they will eventually extend out as far as any branches on the plant....those are the small roots you are seeing. I think you've loosened those well enough with your hose. Don't let these dry out while you wait to plant, exposed to air too long and they will be damaged. If any of the heavier roots are going in a circle that was the shape of the container (around the sides or back up from the bottom), cut them. If you place it in the ground with the roots still encircling, they will continue to grow around and not out or down. The result of that in a couple of years is often a dead plant, it literally chokes itself and won't have become able to take advantage of nutrients and water in the surrounding soil...so you aren't damaging it, but giving it the best chance for establishing. Now that you've begun, you need to finish and not leave it out of the ground like it is presently...Grab those pruners and cut where you must.

My moonflowers, which are related to morning glories, sent out new branches when the tops snapped off this spring. I've never pruned morning glories, but there's a chance they will do the same. I would carefully straighten the bent stems, and not cut them unless the vines began to wither where they were bent. Sometimes a plant can rebuild a bent stem, but it takes time and must be treated gently, like a broken bone. Either way I don't know if they will bloom, because I don't know how they behave in your climate. The vines will definitely need something to climb, otherwise they will sprawl on the ground and likely get stepped on by imbeciles. Can you put a trellis in that spot? A teepee made from three or four long sticks tied together at the top? Make sure to sink the poles deep into the ground, at least a foot down, so it can't blow over in a strong wind. I've had that happen. I've also had wind and rain rip vines off of poles. You may want to gently tie the vines to whatever poles/supports you use, to prevent this. I hope this helps; blue morning glories are worth saving for their beauty alone, and it sounds like these have a special place in your heart.

Too much sun all at once will burn the leaves, but I agree that it could use more light than it's been getting. Watering on a set schedule isn't suggested. Probe the soil and water when it's getting dry. Soil that stays too wet can cause root-rot, which would explain why it can't stand up on its own. For happy roots, this plant needs a soil mix that drains easily. There are many soil recipes, but Cactus & Succulent soil mixed with perlite is one with easy-to-find ingredients. You may want to look through the Cacti and Succulents forum, as Jades are very popular there: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/cacti