No enough CFM for an island. It would likely be OK for a perimeter as long as there is no grill.

Venting on a perimeter er is far easier and cheaper. Plus, a 48” cooking appliance will really need a 12’ island to do this safely, and with a sufficient work space. 70/20/10 Prep/Cleaning/Cooking. Design your space around the activity that takes the most time. That isn’t cooking.

Is there a Hood out there that will support a 48" Blue Star on an island? All grilling will be done outside. There is a 66" version.

https://www.ventahood.com/index.php/products/premier-magic-lung/ml-island?id=361&model=SEPITH18-466

Jeff, your kitchen can easily be designed to have the cooktop on the perimeter. Do it that way. There really is no good reason to put a cooktop on an island.

Thanks. Made the change. It's still on the island but with a full backsplash. That should work. Right?

Post your layout.

GreenDesigns. It's complicated, my friend LOL. I agree, the Range Top should be on a perimeter wall however the Bottom and Left Side of my floor plan needs to be open, as much as possible. So, on the bottom and left side of the kitchen (in the diagram) we only have lower kitchen cabinets and no upper kitchen cabinets. I want to be able to visit with whoever is in the "sitting room" to the left of the kitchen and whoever is in the living room below the kitchen. I also want to a good view from the kitchen through the living room to the outside windows (at the bottom of the diagram) and from the kitchen through the sitting room to the outside windows on the left side of the diagram.

Something has to be sacrificed it seems.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/kitchen-layout-help-dsvw-vd~5698781#n=20

Not only should the hood sides overlap the range cooktop, (60 inches may do vs. 48 for the range), but similarly the front-to-back aperture distance must be sufficient to overlap the range cooktop. The VaH drawing shows 30 inches, perhaps enough, although it is unclear how much of that might be lip or controls. Assume none.

With an entrance aperture of 30 x 60 or 12.5 sq. ft. under the hood, at 90 CFM per sq. ft. the actual flow should be 1100 CFM -- probably adequate even on an island -- so long as there are no significant cross drafts. However, a magic lung isn't magic. The most we can generously assume is that the hood hanging in the air can flow the rated 1100 CFM. What it can do with some length of ducting, a roof cap, and a make-up air system imperfectly attempting to make the interior air pressure to outside air pressure equal is not knowable without analysis. I would go for a higher flow rate, ca. 1700 CFM. With care and expense, maybe 1500 would scrape by, particularly at 30-inches height, where the hood may block the view of taller cooks. A side view stick figure mock-up is recommended.

Also, I am unclear how effective the entire entry aperture is, without more detail about how the incoming air meets the blowers and how the blower structure interacts with it. Pro style baffle type hoods are, in their way, somewhat less complex internally if the blower is moved to the roof where it belongs.