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ajrlittle

Seeking Architect Tips for Smart $ Design

ajrlittle
4 years ago
We are looking to begin a design for our “almost” empty nesters home. Kids are going in to college and will be spending little time at home in upcoming years. I am looking for general tips to designing a home that best utilizes our dollars.

Where are some of the areas in which we can design wisely to create a functional, beautiful home without spending more than necessary?

I’ve heard certain roof styles, footprints, orientation on the lot ,etc. are better for good, economical design. Any advice as we begin our thinking and preliminary discussions with an architect would be appreciated.

Comments (74)

  • PRO
    Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
    4 years ago

    The most effective/efficient producers who study this constantly are production home builders and their architects. Most of the cost differences between custom building vs production starts with the design process.


    If you have nearby new home tracts with "nearly empty nester" plans available, tour them and take notes.

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    4 years ago

    If you don't yet have your property, then the single, most useful information you can get about property is to buy land which allows and rewards orienting the public spaces of the house--living, dining and kitchen--to the south. This will maximize your opportunities for passive solar design and natural light strategies. Avoid orienting these spaces to the west at all costs. Good luck!

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  • ajrlittle
    Original Author
    4 years ago
    I couldn’t agree with you more, Virgil! We always try to get a lot with no one behind us and the backyard south facing. Once had one facing northwest which was awful. Dark rooms all winter or blazing hot with sun in our eyes while dining/relaxing out back in warm months. This will be house #9, so I am pretty particular and have learned quite a few lessons. Always want to learn more, though, so thought I’d pick the brains of others here.

    Eyeing a 5 acre lot with state forest behind it now. The topo shows it gradually sloping down which makes for nice views but need to research further as to whether it can work to walk out straight from the main living areas. We have about 10 steps down now to yard and dislike it a lot. Should’ve gone with my gut on that but it’s tough to find flat lots where we are. Topo survey wasn’t very accurate and contractor said we wouldn’t need more than 6 steps. Even that probably would’ve bothered my husband, so oh well. Lovely lot, otherwise. Can’t complain much.
  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    4 years ago

    There are other architectural options to achieve the public spaces of a houses to be oriented to the south. For example, houses with an "L", "T", square "C" or "U" shape can all be used to achieve south facing public spaces on a lot whose rear does not face south.


    But these are the sort of critical and essential thoughts one should be keeping in mind when looking at land.


    It's amazing how many folks post here saying they've just bought some "wonderful" propertly fronting on a lake with a westerly view. Wrong...!


    Get you ducks in a row (facing south) before taking abefore ta and paying any moneyking any action!


    Good luck!

  • D E
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    "It's amazing how many folks post here saying they've just bought some "wonderful" propertly fronting on a lake with a westerly view. Wrong...!"

    pray tell, how is it wrong to have a nice view and face your living areas to the view?

  • jmm1837
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    It's wrong to have a nice view and face your windows to it if you need to have the blinds down or the curtains drawn and the a/c on high for large parts of the afternoon. We got away with it in our previous home because we had a spotted gum forest which covered most of the afternoon trajectory of the summer sun. But it's not all that common for folks to have 100 ft trees in their yards. And unless you like trees, there goes the view anyway.

  • D E
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    jmm1837

    "It's wrong to have a nice view and face your windows to it if you need to have the blinds down or the curtains drawn and the a/c on high for large parts of the afternoon. We got away with it in our previous home because we had a spotted gum forest which covered most of the afternoon trajectory of the summer sun. But it's not all that common for folks to have 100 ft trees in their yards. And unless you like trees, there goes the view anyway."

    you know Im a big proponent of passive solar. however , even in green building circles where passive solar is a big topic, many will tell you that with all the technology we have today, you should just face your living areas to your view.

    sure, AC costs money. what if a west facing lot came up for 200k less than one that allowed south facing living? how does one then justify the more expensive lot?

  • D E
    4 years ago

    also, I have a west facing window in my living room. there is a curtain in front of it that diffuses the light. In the evening it creates some of the most beautiful light that enters my house.

  • cpartist
    4 years ago

    also, I have a west facing window in my living room. there is a curtain in front of it that diffuses the light

    So tell me what's the point of having a west facing window with a view when you need to diffuse the light with a curtain? Which is the point most of us have been making all along.

  • D E
    4 years ago
    shading the Western lake view for a couple of hours a day in the summer is surely better than buying a lot with no view at all just so you can orient the living areas south, no?
  • ajrlittle
    Original Author
    4 years ago
    No. It isn’t worth saving the money. Orientation affects the beauty, function and basic livability of the indoor and outdoor spaces. It’s why some lots cost more, or less, and why they are often purchased early or available longer.

    Many won’t even look at the nicest home in your neighborhood if oriented unfavorably. I won’t glance that way, just to be sure I won’t be swayed toward its charms. Fell for a lovely yet poorly oriented house once. Moved in and back out within 18 months. One winter and summer was enough to get us planning our next move.

    Current street: two homes across the street have been for sale, now deeply discounted for over a year. One is fantastic, except orientation. Other is needing some updates but priced accordingly. Homes on the opposite side: sold quickly and for more. Both sides have nice golf course views. Biggest complaint to realtors? Orientation.
  • D E
    4 years ago
    when you said you were on house number 9 I thought military and multiple pcs. now I know you're just picky :)

    there are many reasons outside of cost why one may want a non south facing orientation.
  • BT
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    I think a house designer/architect could address the issues with the orientation by arranging private rooms towards the north and public to the south...

    DE read "building an affordable house" by fernando pages Ruiz.

    That book is all about producing $150k - $180k houses in CA(?), TX(?) using some extreme techniques... While he does discuss northern climates and some of the construction practices and some of his techniques ... I would be nervous to use.

    Foundation:

    - He claims that modern light construction overbuilds the foundations: so he suggests to forgo wire-mesh in the foundations (I would definitely put it in the garage) , skimp on interior footings instead of lets say 20"x20"x12" use footing supporting the column 20x20x8" because 8" footing will be covered by another 4" of concrete. His other suggestion is reduce 4" floor concrete to 3.5". On the foundation itself (skimp on rebars) suggests running only 2 rebars at the top (supporting windows) and at the bottom... (my experience tells me middle more critical)... I was always told if basement wall length over 20' (9m) -> +2" the wall - he appears to suggest use unbalanced load chart - 6' of soil or less 8" foundation walls.

    -Some suggestions are good or ok:

    -12' carpet, HVAC extended plenums 24', manualD sizing, use asphalt driveway instead of concrete obviously it will not last as long but saves few $$$..., use OVE, go 24" oc between studs, skimp on non-structural headers. Explains how to identify an expensive clay, etc. Drop home run plumbing, avoid paying for electrical outlets @ $55/outlet, avoid dedicated LED fixtures (cost).

    Others:

    - Skimp on windows, use 0" gable overhang, skimp on corners because it adds $55/corner...Suggest use frost wall shallow foundations, wood foundation walls, claiming that FrankLW houses are still standing...

    Overall it is not a bad book - geared mostly towards the builder who want to build inexpensive houses. If you are GCing - I would not recommend any of these because you are not going to save a much but could get ... structure.

  • PRO
    Mark Bischak, Architect
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Start your search now for an architect that will be a good fit. Start local and spread out until you find one that will meet your needs and be comfortable to work with. Take your time.

  • D E
    4 years ago
    BT, good observations. I agree that some things will save the individual builder, while others may not. when I spoke to framers, they didn't ask if I was going 24 oc, or 16 oc they were mainly concerned about the shape. so the box shape saves me money in framing, but the ove does not. although I'm doing that to stuff more insulation in the house.


    I had a 40x40x2 plan that I really liked- I posted it on here. I changed it to a 48x32x2 plan that I like even better-this one will save money because I can use smaller I joists . and forgo girders. I got that from his book.

    instead of a mondo header for the 12ft wide window, he has a great suggestion about how to break it up and still get the width. I may use that suggestion.

    I will not use two stud corners and drywall clips instead of a three stud corner.


    I think the most important thing is to know all the strategies so one can pick the ones they want to use.
  • B T
    4 years ago
    I am not a pro, but perhaps I can offer some insights as someone in similar circumstances who has done this.

    The size of the house is key. I don’t have to go into all of the technical details as others more qualified than I have already done this. But here’s what I know ...

    A smaller house (which can be high end in all respects ... triple pane windows, high insulation, custom kitchen, hardwood floors, beautiful bathrooms, etc.) costs you less to operate in the long run. Let’s not forget about things like property taxes ... which are forever. A small house has cheaper taxes. Let’s talk heating/cooling ... a small house is cheaper to operate and who knows where these costs will go in the future. If you can keep the long term operational costs of your home down, it’s a good thing.

    A smaller house is easier to clean ... a consideration as you age. (We actually got rid of our cleaning service ... simply didn’t need it. We could do it ourselves.)

    I’m sure you’ve taken into consideration all of the aging in place things. But these are important. One can’t predict the future and one’s health and mobility. It’s not an issue for us, but we’ve watched friends sell their beloved homes that were simply not appropriate for older people (two stories, in particular.)

    We are amazed at how much we save per month simply by having a smaller house. I would much rather put this money into travel than extra square footage.

    Hope this helps. I think someone mentioned the Sarah Susanka books, but they are wonderful.

    All the best with your house!
  • PRO
    Charles Ross Homes
    4 years ago

    To be sure, operating and maintenance costs should be considered in the design phase.


    Some maintenance costs will be a function of a single choice of material, for example the cost to maintain wood siding vs. fiber-cement siding vs. vinyl siding. Operating costs are often a function of multiple choices. The cost to heat and cool a home, for example, is a function of solar orientation; insulation; windows; doors; the type and efficiency of the HVAC system; the cost of electricity and gas, etc.


    Lots of things to consider in the design phase.


    We've found the best project outcomes are produced by a team approach during design where the team includes the owner, the designer/architect, the builder, the various trades that will be working to construct the home, and specialty consultants where required.


    Best wishes for a successful project.

  • BT
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Last time I discovered that reducing the width of the house by 2' (x50'?) x 3 [2 floors + basement] = 300 sq ft reduced cost by whole $4,500. [Foundation Wall $276 + $220 floor + $34 gravel + $500 trusses + $100 joists etc]. I would have saved whole $15/sq ft.

    =

    On the other side making 5'x8' bathroom a non bathroom cut 5k [plumbing/tile/tub//toilet/faucets/lights/flooring/electrical/fan light/ductwork/outside vent / plumbing vents/tile backing/mirrors/countertop].

  • RES, architect
    4 years ago

    I understand the planning people like to do as they grow older but its a game without rules or predictable outcomes

    You may think the kids are gone when they go to college but it might just be a break until they return looking for work or a longer break until the grandkids arrive or until your location is no longer central to the family and you move to be near them.

    In the short run the cost of building new is likely to eat up the energy and tax savings you anticipate.

    Some builders are skilled at design but if you want a smaller house to be functional and comfortable foregoing an architect may be a false economy. Small houses are more difficult to design than large ones which is why they tend to grow during the design phase.

    Plan for enough storage because your kids aren't going to want the stuff you can't seem to throw away.

    I suggest 1 1/2 stories but can't offer additional design advice without more information especially about the site.

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    4 years ago

    "...I will not use two stud corners and drywall clips instead of a three stud corner..."


    This is the exactly the sort of minutia that some consumers like to suggest to other consumers. It comes from reading a few book, a blog and maybe watching a video or two.


    But it's minutia of the most insignificant kind in the land selection, design concepts and construction document preparation of a new, custom home. Corner stud constrction is something few consumers should spend their time on.


    Why?>\


    Every builder has their own experience and preferences. The goal for consumers should be to interview and select an experienced and reputable builder...and let him build the way he knows best.


    Probably the second worst thing a consumer can do is to try to tell an experienced builder how to build. Especially if the consumer, like DE, has never designed or built anything.


    The first worst thing a consumer can do is orient their house's public spaces--living, dining and kitchen--to the west.

  • cpartist
    4 years ago

    But Virgil, don't you know DE knows much more than you since (s)he has read a few books and looked at some online videos? After all, according to DE you know nothing.

  • D E
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Virgil Carter FAIA, since I am my own builder, I can and will tell my framer how I want my house framed. thanks

    Oh, thats yet another way to save money- being my own builder would put the $50k builder's fee back in my pocket. #mortgagefree

  • D E
    4 years ago

    cpartist

    "But Virgil, don't you know DE knows much more than you since (s)he has read a few books and looked at some online videos? After all, according to DE you know nothing."


    lol. I know that I will be building an affordable box, and doing it without a mortgage. I would be cranky too if I were in my 60s and still had a 30 yr mortgage.

  • bry911
    4 years ago

    "Oh, thats another way to save money- being my own builder would put the $50k builder's fee back in my own pocket."

    How much less did your build actually cost than your itemized bid?

  • bry911
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    I would be cranky too if I were in my 60s and still had a 30 yr mortgage.

    Anyone in Texas, or any other non-recourse state, who would build a home without a mortgage or, in fact, ever pay off a low interest mortgage note on a home is foolish.

    The current market rate is way below the risk premium on a home when the lender has no recourse.

  • snowcountry
    4 years ago

    "We've found the best project outcomes are produced by a team approach during design where the team includes the owner, the designer/architect, the builder, the various trades that will be working to construct the home, and specialty consultants where required."


    How does this work in practice? Do you not get multiple bids? Don't you have to have a plan to get bids?

  • D E
    4 years ago

    "bry911

    "I would be cranky too if I were in my 60s and still had a 30 yr mortgage."

    Anyone in Texas, or any other non-recourse state, who would build a home without a mortgage or, in fact, ever pay off a low interest mortgage note on a home is foolish.

    The current market rate is way below the risk premium on a home when the lender has no recourse."


    lol. you heard it here first folks. Next level houzz wisdom from Bry911. Being debt free is foolish.



  • cpartist
    4 years ago

    "Oh, thats another way to save money- being my own builder would put the $50k builder's fee back in my own pocket."

    How much less did your build actually cost than your itemized bid?

    DE hasn't built a thing yet but talks a very big game. DE is so knowledgable regarding building because (s)he's read a few books.

    "I would be cranky too if I were in my 60s and still had a 30 yr mortgage."

    Once again your extreme ignorance on building and finance is showing. I am more than capable of paying off my mortgage many times over if I ever decide to do so. However, as Bry implied, it was in our best interest for several reasons to take a mortgage.

    To quote Bry: "Anyone in Texas, or any other non-recourse state, who would build a home without a mortgage or, in fact, ever pay off a low interest mortgage note on a home is foolish.

    The current market rate is way below the risk premium on a home when the lender has no recourse."

  • D E
    4 years ago
    "I am more than capable of paying off my mortgage many times over if I ever decide to do so."

    lol. sure. I believe you.
  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    4 years ago

    Anyone giving any credibility to Debbie's comments is in big trouble. She's just a troll.

  • PRO
    Mark Bischak, Architect
    4 years ago

    Does anyone have any books on wealth management to recommend to D E so she can understand what bry911 is talking about?

  • PRO
    Anglophilia
    4 years ago

    Do avoid houses with a complex roof line. My 85 year old cousin bought a 5 year old subdivision house about 10 years ago. At 15 years of age, the roof is already leaking in multiple places. She thought she had the house sold a year ago - deal fell through as the buyer's insurance company would not insure the roof. She just got a bid on having the roof replaced - $17,000. She can't afford to do this. The house is only about 2300 sq feet and is worth about $280,000 tops. That roof will be the death of her...quite literally the death of her. Her stress level is incredible.

  • bry911
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    you heard it here first folks. Next level houzz wisdom from Bry911. Being debt free is foolish.

    First, can you find a definition of debt that would include a non-recourse note?

    Next, here is some real advice from someone who has actually built a house and with an actual understanding of financial risk and return.

    If you are building a home, whether in a recourse state or otherwise, attempt to do so with a loan. A home build is far too risky to not have some mechanism to share or offshore risk. Even if you really want the house paid for, you should wait a year or two, for the stated reason. If a loan isn't available to you, then so be it, but definitely don't go out in search of extra risk.

    If you happen to be in a non-recourse state, the note you took for the purpose of purchasing or building the home is secured by the equity in the home alone, and doesn't obligate you in any other way. This is an extra piece of insurance as it establishes the value of your home as the ceiling of the note. A significant portion of Americans have been upside down on their house and a non-recourse note actually gives you real options.

    ETA: @ D E, I don't care if you set your money on fire, it is your money, do whatever you want with it. However, I think you should refrain from making fun of people who chose not to set their money on fire.

  • PRO
    Charles Ross Homes
    4 years ago

    @snowcountry, there are a variety of alternative project delivery methods for designing and building anything from an ancient Egyptian pyramid to a manned space vehicle to a custom home. The methods are evolving over time.


    The "traditional" method of designing a home and then putting it out for bids and awarding the lowest bidder is one project delivery method. Alternatives include design/build, cost planning, negotiated pricing, and employing the builder as a cost consultant to the designer. Each alternative has advantages and disadvantages.


    The method I've found to work best for residential construction projects is one I learned and applied almost 40 years ago when I was a project engineer responsible for commercial projects. In contrast to competitive bidding, the process is an open, collaborative approach that involves and makes use of the expertise and insights of the entire construction team beginning in the design phase.


    The American Institute of Architects has put their "stamp" on this type of project delivery method, which they call "Integrated Project Delivery" or IPD. They have some case studies on IPD which are internet searchable. There's also a very readable article on the process in Fine Homebuilding Magazine which you can access via the following link:

    https://www.finehomebuilding.com/membership/pdf/9261/021244074.pdf


    It's worth evaluating a couple of alternative approaches and picking the best fit for your needs.



  • cpartist
    4 years ago

    lol. sure. I believe you.

    Honestly I don't care whether you do or not. My comments are not for you but for those who are lurkers. You've proven your ignorance over and over.

  • jmm1837
    4 years ago

    "since I am my own builder, I can and will tell my framer how I want my house framed."

    Groucho Marx famously said that he wouldn't want to join any club that would accept him as a member. I wouldn't want to hire any contractor who would accept my instructions on how to frame a house.

  • SapphireStitch
    4 years ago

    alley2007, if you can pull that off we’ll crown you the Houzz monarch! Shoot, I’d be ecstatic just to have Sophie back and watch her make mincemeat of D E and his/her ideas.

  • bry911
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Right on cue... The ad hominem attacks. If you take issue with something I have said, then discuss it. We know you can't actually sway anyone to your side with anything that even approaches well reasoned...

    This should be easy for you, can you explain why a non-recourse note is debt?

  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Debbie wrote, "...since I am my own builder, I can and will tell my framer how I want my house framed...Oh, thats yet another way to save money- being my own builder would put the $50k builder's fee back in my pocket..."

    Debbie, you continue to amaze us all at how little you know and understand about designing and building custom homes. Time and again you demonstrate your lack of experience and understanding.

    First, let's take the framing of your new house, whatever it turns out to be. Every reputable builder and subcontractor values their reputation in the business more than anything else. Like architects, it's their good reputation which ensures future success or it's their bad reputation which results in future lack of business.

    No experienced and reputable builder or subcontractor is going to listen to a consumer--especially one with no experience, who thinks they know everything--tell them how to frame a corner or any other aspect of construction.

    Builders and subcontractors are going to build the way they know and the way they have successfully learned is reliable and durable. If you insist on having it your way--and if you display the arrogance you display here--every experienced and reliable builder and subcontractor will simply walk off your job after your first arrogant outburst.

    When that happens you'll be left to the builders and subcontractors who will gladly take your money and disappear after noon on Friday.

    Second, if you are so illusionary as to think you can be your own general contractor, and save time and money, you simply haven't read all the postings on this forum of folks who have tried to do this and failed--spending more money and extending the project schedule far beyond what an experienced and reputable general contractor would produce.

    You simply demonstrate, once again, that you don't know what you don't know.

    Do us all a favor. Stop trying to advise other consumers. Stop posting all your nonsense here and just go off and design and build your own home. It will be a great life lesson for you.

  • D E
    4 years ago



    " Second, if you are so illusionary as to think you can be your own general contractor, and save time and money, you simply haven't read all the postings on this forum of folks who have tried to do this and failed--spending more money and extending the project schedule far beyond what an experienced and reputable general contractor would produce".


    lol at the scare tactics. you believe that a house done without an exterior decorator is doomed to be horrible, now lets add a general contractor to the list .


    who else should we add to your list of MUST HAVES Virgil Carter FAIA?

    Interior Architect aka interior decorator?

    landscaping architect?

    energy consultant?

    software architect for the home automation system?


    lol

  • BT
    4 years ago

    Here we go again. DE made a statements that is 100% true.

    - Framers do NOT charge less for OVE framing, OVE framing cost more.

    - Most drywallers do not know these ove clips exists.

    Never been able to find a framer who stated 10% ove discount. And 6 years ago I called every local drywall supplier and ask if they have these clips. Not one had them in stock.

    Why are you attacking him/her?

    =

    I wouldn't want to hire any contractor who would accept my instructions on how to frame a house.

    I expect the contractor taking instructions from the builder. If I tell him to do 3 studs corners and he does.. If I tell him the way I want sagged joist, I expect to be followed. if I tell him to apply the subflooring from corner A, and he uses B something that requires a lot of cuts, if I tell him not to place a I joist over the wall because ductwork in it, and he is not listening, if I tell him inline joists and he does staggered, that is silly, if I tell that the roof needs to be finished first because rain is coming and instead he nails partition walls... NO.

    The company I worked for had particular dimensioning: ALL dimensions on the plan for every wall started from the interior surface of a single exterior wall. The owner insisted that we verify the job using this one scheduler. We followed and so the subs. When your stairs are off by 5" or missing 1-1/2" gap between the stair and the wall it is a chore to move.

  • ajrlittle
    Original Author
    4 years ago
    Ha! I miss Sophie at times as well.

    I’m afraid this thread has run amuck. I apologize as I guess I did not frame the question adequately. When I said ‘looking for tips to result in a “smart” build,’ I meant tips that lead to wisely spending my dollars, regardless of budget or scale of home. I think you can make smart decisions that yield a great result for YOUR budget and needs even if your home will be at the $1M mark and 4,000 sq ft. I’m not looking to cut corners for poor quality and design or to face the wrong direction just to save a buck. We will simplify on our next move, yet I hope the design will still meet our needs if done right. I guess I was looking for ideas to consider that are often overlooked or common pitfalls to avoid.

    I am gathering more information on the potential lot we are interested in buying. It’s not yet on the market, but is owned by a developer that says I could use one of four builders he uses or my own team.

    This part is tricky. It’s a bit like “which comes first, the chicken or the egg?” To even determine if I want the lot, I should get a site survey with more specific topo info than the county gives, I imagine. Then I need to engage an architect to find out if the type of design I want can feasibly work on the lot. That seems to mean some lengthy discussions as to what we desire and significant potential work on a lot that might go nowhere. Then also determining who would be the best fit as builder... I’d love to use an IPD process, yet this team must be just right too. So many overlapping/interdependent factors. Might cost quite a lot, too.

    On our last go-round, I bought the lot before making all these considerations, except topo. We worked faster than my architect had ever experienced before on a fully custom build. It worked out really well but I think I was very fortunate as there are many points at which the project could have gone awry. I was very decisive and organized but want to count less on luck the next go round.

    No one is lucky all the time. Fortunately, I am not in a rush.
  • jmm1837
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    BT - you may have experience framing, but I don't (and neither does DE). I know I'm not competent to tell a pro how to frame a house, and if a pro accepted my instructions based on a couple of internet articles I'd read but only half understood, he wouldn't be the pro I wanted working for me. I want a pro who has the experience, skills and the judgement to do protect me from my own ignorance.




  • BT
    4 years ago

    nP, jmm. You do not need to give any instruction... Your construction plans should.

    =

    ajrlittle , You are doing good. I would keep looking for a lot. No reason to waste $100k in lot prep fees. If it is for some reason a challenging lot - engage the architect immediately. Engage GIS Maps for your county, visit building / planning department to get more info on your lot. Check if survey is already on file. Check GIS to see soil types ... It is much harder to find good parcels but they are still available. I knew someone who bragged about perfect "topsoil". After 9' digg - guess what same purfect topsoil... You can not build a house, as it will not support the dream home... w/o engineering foundation.

  • jmm1837
    4 years ago
    BT - of course. But that's not the point I was making. I don't believe it's at all easy for a rank amateur to actually save money GCing their own build because the money saved in not paying a GC is likely to be eaten up by delays, mistakes and lack of access to trade discounts and quality subcontractors. Compound that with a plan drawn up and specced by a novice and, in my admittedly limited experience, the best contractors will simply walk away rather than get involved with a situation guaranteed to bring them headaches they don't need.
  • beckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionally
    4 years ago

    A few helpful threads,

    What's A Well-Designed House?

    Beginning Bubble Diagram for a Custom Home

    Tips for Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home Part 1 of 3

    Tips for Buying Land Designing & Building Custom Home Part 1 Continued

    Tips for Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 2

    Tips for Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 2 continued

    Tips for Buying Land, Designing and Building A Custom Home, Part 3

    and also

    What are you doing to make your house enrich your life?

    If there are any links that don't work or are broken, please let me know and I'll try to fix them.

    And, for simplified gardening and landscaping, I highly recommend

    "Gardening for a Lifetime: How to Garden Wiser as You Grow Older" by Sydney Eddison, and

    "Gardening Without Work: For the Aging, the Busy, and the Indolent" by Ruth Stout

    "Embroidered Ground: Revisiting the Garden" by Page Dickey

    Finally, whether you're designing or decorating a house, or landscaping a garden, keep these wise words in mind from designer and paint consultant Maria Killam,

    First Rule of Design: Boring Now Equals Timeless Later

  • beckysharp Reinstate SW Unconditionally
    4 years ago

    When I said ‘looking for tips to result in a “smart” build,’ I meant tips that lead to wisely spending my dollars, regardless of budget or scale of home. I think you can make smart decisions that yield a great result for YOUR budget and needs even if your home will be at the $1M mark and 4,000 sq ft. I’m not looking to cut corners for poor quality and design or to face the wrong direction just to save a buck.

    This reminds me -- passive solar will save you money year-round for heating and cooling.

  • Mrs Pete
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    No we don't all want that house.

    I mean, Everyone wants to buy a house for a low price ... and sell it for a high price ... and to own the least expensive house in an expensive neighborhood.

    Were people to demand more efficient houses, then the market would respond, but in reality, most people don't care.

    I think people want efficient houses ... but they find themselves caught up in finishes /can't see past finishes.

    A smaller house (which can be high end in all respects ... triple pane windows, high insulation, custom kitchen, hardwood floors, beautiful bathrooms, etc.) costs you less to operate in the long run. Let’s not forget about things like property taxes ... which are forever. A small house has cheaper taxes. Let’s talk heating/cooling ... a small house is cheaper to operate and who knows where these costs will go in the future. If you can keep the long term operational costs of your home down, it’s a good thing.

    A smaller house is easier to clean ... a consideration as you age. (We actually got rid of our cleaning service ... simply didn’t need it. We could do it ourselves.)

    I’m sure you’ve taken into consideration all of the aging in place things. But these are important. One can’t predict the future and one’s health and mobility. It’s not an issue for us, but we’ve watched friends sell their beloved homes that were simply not appropriate for older people (two stories, in particular.)

    We are amazed at how much we save per month simply by having a smaller house. I would much rather put this money into travel than extra square footage.

    Yes, these are all reasons we're building a small house. I'll add just one more, and it's a rather morbid reason: I'm younger and healthier than my husband. The reality is that I'll likely live in this house alone one day. I don't want to knock about alone in an oversized house.

    This is the exactly the sort of minutia that some consumers like to suggest to other consumers. It comes from reading a few book, a blog and maybe watching a video or two.

    It's also the kind of thing that causes your builder to add a P.I.A. charge on top of your bill.

    "I am more than capable of paying off my mortgage many times over if I ever decide to do so.

    lol. sure. I believe you.

    I believe it. Hang around here a while, and if you're doing more than throwing insults at people, you'll note consistencies (or inconsistencies) in people's comments. It's pretty easy to tell who's telling the truth. CPArtist is a solid poster ... not a liar or a braggart.

    ETA: @ D E, I don't care if you set your money on fire, it is your money, do whatever you want with it. However, I think you should refrain from making fun of people who chose not to set their money on fire.

    Agree. It definitely shows ignorance. I personally fall into the camp of "buy a modest house and pay it off", but I do understand the math behind the idea of keeping a mortgage /investing.

    I don't believe it's at all easy for a rank amateur to actually save money GCing their own build because the money saved in not paying a GC is likely to be eaten up by delays, mistakes and lack of access to trade discounts and quality subcontractors.

    Agree. No -- more than agree; that implies opinion. This is fact. A GC knows the ins-and-outs of building, has relationships with the best trades, and will be more efficient in the long run. That includes building for a lower price, especially when you consider that time is money.

  • runnem
    4 years ago
    I think not building more house than you need is a big one. Build what you need based on how you live, not what you think you’ll need or how you hope you’ll live.

    We’re meeting our architect « soon » (ha!), as soon as we can get onto our farm without having to muck through snow. We want to see where the water pools, runoff, sun patterns, etc.

    We’re a young family of 4 currently living in about 800-900 sq ft on our one farm. It’s a bit tight. We’re looking to build no bigger than 1800 sq ft but the goal is really to build around 1500ish. We both grew up in about 1200 sq ft (my husband was one of 5 boys in that house!) so small works for us and our minuscule budget.

    We want to orient south (which thankfully on 104 acres is pretty easy!) and won’t be building for a few years but we’re meeting the architect now so that we know how to clear the existing trees and which ones to leave. We also want a site plan to build shops and outbuildings in the future.

    Looking forward to learning more in the years to come and one day posting our own plan!