Wi-Fi Thermostat with Auto Heat/Cool Differential of 1-Degree
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4 years ago
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Subterranean Heating/Cooling System - Continued
Comments (64)Hi all, Waterstar, I also hope you and your hubby are doing OK and that he is still on the mend. Since my last post in 2015, I have had other stuff on my mind. For the end of 2015 through the beginning of January 2016, I was training for and then completing the Dopey Challenge (running a 5K, a 10K, a half marathon, and then a full marathon [our first] in Disney World) with my daughter. We were successful and are both Dopey. Then in early April my oldest granddaughter was a passenger during an auto accident and was thrown from the vehicle at 85 mile per hour. Many of her vertebrae were broken. I spent nearly two months away from home to help my daughter with my granddaughters. Somehow, she is not paralyzed and can now walk with a cane. My husband has also spent time helping when I was not able to be there. My grandaughter has constant pain that we hope that the surgery this Friday will help alleviate. In early August my mom fell and broke her hip. I spent another couple months away from home while she was in the hospital and in rehab. She is now walking with the aid of a walker. We were happy to see the end of 2016. However, now my father-in-law has sepsis and is expected to die soon. Therefore, my husband and I have decided to get our home and acre ready to sell so that we can move closer to our families. We plan to be finishing the greenhouse by spring so that, hopefully, it and the raised bed garden will be selling points. At least I will get experience using it for the first summer. We will be looking for homes for most of the chickens. I am hoping that we can take our older hens and special needs hens with us. I will be simplifying the greenhouse system slightly by setting up both the inside and outside underground tubing to be used for inside the greenhouses. I will provide the information I have to the future owners so that they can continue to use the system as it will be done or so that they can add the exterior system if they want....See MoreHot upstairs, cool downstairs
Comments (19)I'd love to be able to zone the place, but that's not going to be real easy. There are two trunks coming off of the basement AC, one going to the north side and one going to the south side of the house. Off of those two trunks, lines branch off to individual rooms, whether they be upstairs or downstairs. The upstairs (2nd floor) lines go vertically through the central walls to registers in the floor (and horizontally to floor registers on the first floor). It's not like previous houses I've lived in where a trunk goes up to the attic to feed ceiling vents in the top floor. So, to zone this house would require ripping out the ceiling in every room in the finished basement (and later repairing the ceiling), removing the north and south trunk lines and replacing them with a north trunk for the 1st floor, a north trunk for the 2nd floor, and separate south trunks for the 1st and 2nd floor. And that's before adding any remote controlled dampers, new thermostats, and remote sensors. While that would be ideal, I can't imagine what it would cost (maybe I'm over estimating it in my head, but ballpark figures would be welcome). I did discover this week that the attic fan isn't working, so I'm going to have an electrician come over and check it out. Once I get that fixed, that should take some heat load off of the 2nd floor (I have plenty of soffit vents but the only vent near the peak is a mushroom-style attic fan). I still think that a Honeywell thermostat with a circ function might be enough to stir things up between the floors and even out the temperature a bit when the AC isn't going (and cause the AC to kick in sooner as the downstairs warms up a bit due to the mixed in upstairs air). Like I mentioned earlier, once the AC kicks in, the differential between the upstairs and downstairs isn't too bad. Nonetheless, I'm also thinking about hiring someone to add return air vents to each of the upstairs bedrooms. There is currently a single return in the hallway, and undercuts are used to return air from the bedrooms to the hallway. I was thinking that adding air returns to the bedrooms not only might improve airflow, but would pulling the cool air higher up (if that makes sense)....See MoreCarrier Programmable Thermostat, not working?
Comments (12)I have the same Carrier 'stat for 6 years, and there have been four of them for years longer than that where I work. No trouble thus far with any. If the room temp is 60, and you're HOLDing with a heat setpoint of 75F then of course the system should heat. If you have all four periods of all seven days set at 75F, then there shouldn't be any waiting for the "time to roll around" ... all the periods are the same so any day-and-period at any point in time should maintain 75F. However, be sure you are SETTING the HEAT temp ... the heat temp SETPOINT is not the same as setting heat MODE. When in program mode, the lower-left button switches between setting COOL temp, HEAT temp, and target TIME. HOLD overrides the programming for manual adjustment of the temp, until Hold is disengaged. Your choice, but there's no need to use Hold if you have all the days/periods programmed for the same temp. Note that if HOLD is not engaged, manually adjusting the temp setpoint up or down will TEMPORARILY override the programmed temp, until the next scheduled period triggers. Example, if the current setpoint is 75, time of day is 1 PM and you want to temporarily lower the setpoint to 72 until the next period (say, evening at 5 PM), simply press the Temp Down button to 72F. 72F will be in effect until 5 PM at which time the programming will revert it back to 75F....See MoreThermostat placement
Comments (23)@wdccruise: "For example, when I changed my router's 2.4 Ghz standard from "802.11 b/g/n" to "802.11 n", my Sonos speakers would no longer connect. If the Sonos speakers only support 802.11b or 802.11g, then they won't connect if the router is only transmitting the 802.11n protocol. @wdccruise: "When I changed my router's 5.0 Ghz standard from "802.11 n/ac" to "802.11 ac", neither my computer nor my TV would connect." This is likely the same issue. The computer and TV may only support 802.11n and not 802.11ac which is a newer standard. When setting up your router, you should select as many standards as the router allows if you are connecting to older devices. As a side note the 802.11ac standard only uses the 5 GHz band. If you are set to that standard and turn off the 5 GHz band then there will be no transmission. The wireless standards have become very confusing but not hopeless. Log into your router and review the settings. You should be able to get it to work with a little trouble shooting and patience....See Morewdccruise
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