Help! Mont Blanc VS Monte Blanc. Are either real Quartzite?
NewEnglandgal
4 years ago
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Durability of Honed vs Polished vs Sealed Quartzite?
Comments (3)I wouldn't count on those rocks being similar, since so many slabs labeled as quartzite are actually marble. Romy is correct, you have to get a sample of the exact rock you want, and test it as much as you can. Then you can make your decision based on your own observations, which will definitely help with the confusion. Good luck!...See MoreQuartzite polished or honed?
Comments (60)kksmama, Taj Mahal is one of the most trouble-free stones that you can get, so they've made an excellent choice. It's not porous so it's unlikely to stain - and that's the worry with other quartzites. As for hot pans, the trouble isn't because the minerals in the stone can't handle heat, it's because all slabs are relatively thin, and the 'thermal shock' of a hot pan can cause the stone to expand, but just in that one small spot. The stress over the small area can create a crack. It's unlikely - but not impossible. A couple years ago I did lots of tests putting a smoking-hot cast iron skillet on various slabs and none of the 2 cm slabs cracked. But a thinner one did - it was quartz though, not natural stone. Nonetheless, even with Taj Mahal I would use trivets. I'm so glad your stone is working out for you and I know exactly what you mean about the satisfaction of having done your homework. Good for you!...See MoreQuartzite Countertop Dilemma
Comments (103)I don't know the answer for sure, but I can offer some ideas. If I were getting porous quartzite countertops, I'd have the fabricator put the slab up on edge and seal the heck out of the upward-facing edge, then repeat on all sides. There's a technique called 'puddling in,' where a lot of sealer is put on the surface (like a puddle) and left to sit and soak in for awhile. Obviously the surface needs to be horizontal for this to work, hence the idea of putting the slab up on edge. Also, this would need to be done before it's installed. Then repeat the same method on the top, so that all the edges and the top are sealed well. If you have a willing fabricator, it would be useful to test this idea. It's something on my list to try....See MoreIs this real quartzite?
Comments (5)Lemon juice may not be conclusive. if it's a dolomite, you won't see the etching right away. (the way to tell is to see if it bubbles w/carbon dioxide or something. i'm no scientist!) you have any Hydrochloric Acid handy? The best way to tell one from the other is the acid test: a drop of 1 M on calcite produces an instant, obvious fizz; a drop on dolomite produces slow or no obvious bubbling. Frequently, you have to use a knife point to powder a small area of dolomite to get a visible reaction to a drop of acid. the slab you got may be from Africa and not Brazil? that;s what I've read. I've also read that the one you have resembles marble moreso than the Brazil mont blanc, which looks like this. I'm going to guess that you have a Dolomite (marble's first cousin. Marble is Calcite) Same as Super White. I've had Super White for 4 years now and it's held up pretty good. Keep yours sealed, use trivets and cutting boards, wipe up spills sooner than later. Take a glass tile, break it so that you have a sharp edge, and try it on the surface. a knife blade could be misleading. (what if it's forged steel or something?) We know for sure that glass is harder than marble, but softer than quartzite. MontBlanc does have a reputation for staining, so I'd be more concerned w/that. read this post https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5692583/help-mont-blanc-vs-monte-blanc-are-either-real-quartzite Stoneyards should do this to assure customers what they are getting. This is that HCI test. I don't expect you to have to do this, but I would expect a stone yard that is selling and mislabeling these slabs do so! Quick and simple field techniques are described for determining and distinguishing the carbonate mineral's calcite and dolomite. A further procedure for determiningt he presence of phosphate is also described. All of these field staining procedures can bemodified for, or have been adapted from techniques used in the laboratory. The methods are described below: 6.2. CARBONATE (CALCITE AND DOLOMITE) DETERMINATION Dolomite (Mann 1955) On a clean rock surface add a few drops of dilute (10%) hydrochloric acid HCI to etch the surface. This releases the Ca and Mg ions into solution. Continue with the procedure even if no reaction is visible (i.e. high Mg content). The etching stage may help separate a pure dolomite from a limestone (but not a low Mg limestone, MgO <10%). When any vigorous reaction has ceased, add a drop of alkaline solution (0.OO2g p-Nitrobenzene-azoresourcinol in 100m1 of 2N sodium hydroxide). Within the first minute of adding the solution observe the results of any reaction. RESULTS HIGH-Mg CALCITE Blue precipitate is evident (indicates a carbonate high in available MgO). The intensity of the blue colour will decrease with MgO content. LOW-Mg CALCITE DOLOMITE Violet colour indicates a carbonate with no MgO. DOLOMITE Yellow colour (seen when no reaction occurs after etching and alkali solution is applied). As a blue coloration will be evident on evaporation of the alkali solution, observations must be noted within the first minute of application. Shield the test area from direct sunlight while undertaking this technique to avoid the loss of staining solution through evaporation, and detect light colour hues of the precipitates....See MoreNewEnglandgal
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