Hi mnromero! I found this pretty detailed forum that answers questions about pruning FLF and some problems they face: Pruning Ficus Lyrata. When my FLF gets big enough to prune I plan on revisiting this site for suggestions. Hope this helps out.

I think it looks fine. I would leave it alone and let it grow. The two branches with the stick for support will not fuse together without a whole lot of training. My recommendation would be leave it alone so it makes a nice thick and healthy plant. In the future if you are adamant that you want a single branch tree...try to buy one like that. These are slow growing if you keep them indoors and sometimes drop a few leaves when they adjust to being moved. Yours looks fine and is a nice specimen. Enjoy it!

When anyone refers to "plant feet", your suspicions should be raised. "This plant likes to be rootbound" Oh, this is sad! Please everyone, let this myth die in peace. No plant likes to be rootbound. What is necessary for plants to stay alive is for their roots to not rot, which can happen so easily in a pot with dense soils, like ground dirt, or bagged mixes of predominantly tiny particles of peat, (or to simply shrivel from simply never getting any water.) Having very little soil around the roots would make the soil dry more quickly, and for even the most dedicated plant-overwaterers to not rot the roots of their plants. This is not ideal, since most non-cactus plants are stressed by dry conditions, it's just a way of coping with soil that has little air in it when moist. Negative experiences in regard to potting-up, where an undisturbed root ball is placed into a bigger pot with more soil around it, vs. doing a repotting, as described below, can give rise to old wives' tales about plants not liking to be repotted/disturbed. Potting-up a root-bound plant that has roots surrounding the outside root ball often lead to this negative experience because those roots had adapted to accessing oxygen around the outside of the root ball and surrounding them with more dense, soggy-but-airless potting soil will likely lead to suffocation. The reason bonsai masters are able to keep potted entities alive for hundreds of years is because they care for the roots by trimming them and changing the soil. A plant grows from the roots-up, so if the roots are not healthy, gorgeous foliage will decline &/or no flowers can form. When you unpot a plant and find a pancake of roots at the bottom, chopping that off will give roots a chance to grow normally again for a while and will make removing the old soil easier. Roots need oxygen & moisture at the same time to function. Just air = shriveling. Just moisture = suffocation & rotting. Either will cause root death and dessicated foliage because the roots have been unable to deliver moisture. Having to let soil dry, as if ones' tropical jungle plant was a cactus, is an unnecessarily stressful coping mechanism for non-desert dwelling plants in soil without enough oxygen for the roots to stay healthy when it is moist and can lead to premature loss of older leaves and in extreme cases, dry shriveled roots/dead plant. The ability of roots to be able to function properly depends greatly on the soil structure/texture, which can change over time. Potting soil tends to be very dense, mostly peat, with very little air in it. Any kind of organic ingredients decompose into smaller bits over time, and roots fill air spaces over time as they grow through soil. Replacing soil periodically is usually necessary to keep plants healthy because of these reasons. A more porous, chunky, airy soil (like cactus/palm, if one is buying bagged,) can have more air in it even when it is moist because there is space between the particles. When there are tiny particles of any kind in a pot, such as peat, sand, silt, clay, they filter into all of the tiny spaces in a pot, eliminating the air. "Overwatering" is the label and manifestation when roots have suffocated and/or rotted, combo of both. Over time, organic bits decompose into smaller bits, so even the "best" soil, if it has organic components, will need to be replaced when this happens. The speed at which this happens depends on many variables, but on average, about 1-3 years.

Hello! So it seems that You do have root rot. Root rot in fiddle leaf figs is vary common, Yet vary deadly if you don't act fast, You did the right thing by drying out the rootball. The next step is to Inspect the roots and remove any wet, soggy, Or browning roots. After that there is not much more you can do but put it in Fast draining soil and not water it for a while in a well draining pot. I believe that at this stage, It will recover. Just a future tip, When potting a FLF, don't use a pot that is to much bigger than the rootball, A pot that is too big will retain water, And cause root rot. I hope this helped, Good luck on saving you fig. Best Regards, Aidan.