Let's start with those 14' ceilings. Cottages, traditionally, usually have rather LOW ceilings. So, this is not a cottage.

How many rooms are going to have shiplap in them? I'm not a big fan, but if you just must use it, stick to one room only. If you are determined to cover ALL the walls and ceilings with shiplap, switch to beadboard and treat it like a northern MI summer cottage. They often had all-beadboard for walls and ceilings. And they usually left it untreated at all - no paint, no stain, no varnish. They wanted them maintenance free. Of course the roofs invariably leaked, water came in and there was "gray" everywhere the water went. I speak from experience - first husband's family cottage built in 1902.

None of the above. Mixing up formal and informal and modern and cottage doesn’t really work for cohesiveness. It’s a hot mess to even attempt. Skip the much too tall proportions of the ceiling. Skip the shiplap. Now you’re going down a workable path.

Hopefully all the shiplap in the world is concentrated in Waco, leaving the rest of the world thankfully free of that abomination to cleanliness, insect infestation, and good taste.

A summer house. With a 14 " vault in a great room What else is vaulted? You are doing every wall and ceiling? On an Island. Nothing on the island has any heat or AC? Sounds like fun. : (

That said, the more any thing is everywhere, the less you notice it.

"It’s 3 season so we can’t do any dry wall, only wood."

What climate would cause you to think that?

Is that permissable by code? I know you absolutely should but isn't it code to have drywall first regardless?

Good lord. If it's three seasons in most of the northern hemisphere, ..........the pipes will freeze : ) There has to be some heat. Which means why is drywall an issue?

I have stayed in a log cabin in the Adirondacks built in the 1800s. It has been remodeled A bit. Its about 12x20 and has no rafters just open to the roof which is a simple peak. so that’s a 3 season cottage with probably about 14’ vaulted ceilings at the highest point. Maybe a tad lower So that part makes total sense to me. These log cabins have been 3 season rentals in that cold climate for a long time, over 100 years.

its the “farmhouse” part that I don’t fully understand. may just be farmhouse style inspired decor. The project sounds more like a house than a cabin but hard to say from info given

It’s because it’s a clear trend that will require major investments of time and money to un-trend. I can paint over my hunter green and burgundy accent walls in half a day, but I‘m going to have to hire a sub and live in a construction zone to get rid of the shiplap.

Small 3 season houses are commonly drained of water and closed for the winter in cold climates. The difficulty is draining the water from a more complex house but, if carefully designed, its certainly possible. Many people use compressed air to blow water out of the pipes.

Gypsum wallboard should not be a problem in a cold season because the air should be drier than in the summer. I have a vacation house with beadboard walls and sloping ceilings. The flat ceilings are gypsum wallboard. Its on an island that is inaccessible in the winter (until the ice is thick enough but that rarely happens anymore) and there hasn't been a problem with the gypsum wallboard in 50 years. We did have a frozen pipe once and it was hell finding it and repairing it because it was in a wood paneled wall.

Gypsum wallboard contains a great deal of water which is why it is able to resist fire so I suppose it can actually be damaged in extremely cold temperatures. However, it is often required in certain conditions so you might need a code compliance alternative.

In the US, the IRC requires 1/2" gypsum wallboard in an enclosed accessible space under a stair, over plastic foam insulation and at walls shared with a garage.

The IRC requires interior wall finishes to have a flame spread rating not greater than 200. (most softwood paneling complies but not all). The finishes must also not have a smoke-developed rating greater than 450.

lol @ RES 3d. drywall is fire resistant because it contains gypsum which is non-flammable. it does expand and contract as does the framing it's attached to which is why it isn't a good choice in extreme temperature settings.

For ship lap or any wood I’d probably do just 1 size/style unless the cabin is over ~1,500 square feet. Just my personal taste I’m not a decorator! I’d like simpler for a smaller cabin. And lots of windows!

In 10 years shiplap is going to be looked at like paneling was. Just my opinion.

Drywall will be 1/10th the cost of any wood cladding. Or less. And far more appropriate, despite the current trendiness of wood wall cladding. It’s highly doubtful that it would have issues over the winter, if it is installed properly in the first place. . Even if you have a bit of separation at corners due to the extreme expansion and contraction due to the humidity changes, that can easily and cheaply be fixed. It’s also only a temporary issue for the first few seasons.

Here's a home that is all shiplap for reference. I would use the same size boards throughout

H

An alternate option is to use vertical boards in the home. The nice think about this solution is that even if your floors are not even, you don't have to worry about the lines matching at the corners like you do with shiplap.

Instead of shiplap, you might want to consider this solution for your home. Far less expensive

Sounds like a fab and interesting project. You mention that you are also using beadboard? So, my inclination would be to keep the ship lap to one size.

And for those questioning the term "cottage"...ever see what sometimes gets called a "camp" in the Adirondacks?

"lol @ RES 3d. drywall is fire resistant because it contains gypsum which is non-flammable." @ randy41_1

Non-flammable means a material that is not easily ignited at ambient temperatures. If gypsum board was only non-flammable, it would be of little use for the fire protection of structural elements and use separation.

Here's the reason gypsum board is so effective:

"When gypsum is subjected to a high temperature environment, water molecules bound in its crystal lattice are released and transferred through its mass; this “gypsum dehydration” (GD) process is highly endothermic, thus enhancing the fire resistance of the overall structure." C.Y. Wang, C.N. Ang The effect of water movement on specific heat of gypsum plasterboard in heat transfer analysis under natural fire exposure Constr. Build. Mater., 18 (2004), pp. 505-515

Here's a less technical explanation from Angie's List:

"Drywall is relatively fire resistant. It's composed of gypsum pressed between two sheets of thick paper. Gypsum is a soft mineral that by itself is not flammable. Additionally, water is incorporated into its structure. In the presence of fire, heat energy vaporizes the water, removing it gradually. Water effectively blocks the transfer of heat through the drywall. Once the water dissipates, the gypsum begins to heat past the boiling point of water, and may begin to burn."

"Fire-resistant" gypsum board is the same as regular gypsum board but it has glass fiber reinforcement and other additives that allow it to remain intact longer and pass the hose stream at the end of the rating test.

Noncombustible materials are those materials which pass ASTM E136. Gypsum board, because of its combustible facing, will not pass ASTM E136 thereforeits classified as a combustible material.

Building codes are only concerned with flammability for finish materials limiting them to a flame-spread rating no greater than 200 (oak).

The important measure of fire protection is "fire-resistance". When fire-resistant materials are used in an "assembly" it can then be tested and receive a "fire-resistance rating".

The term"paneling" is used differently even in the same geographic area.

Ship lap is not paneling because the boards are separate and only the rabbeted edges overlap. Other kinds of interlocking wood wall cladding are called "paneling" from formal panels like on a door to wood that is fit together with tongue & groove joints.

The difference in appearance is the ship Lap boards are designed to leave a small joint showing and, of course, they're face nailed.

T&G boards can be made with beveled (V-groove), square or beaded edges. The square edge kind can have the the same small joint as shiplap boards. I have always used T&G paneling with different joint profiles.

T&G V-groove poplar

T&G V-groove vertical grain fir

beaded

Square edge

Beaded

Kaye did you try to simply clicking on the video. It should open automatically.

https://youtu.be/9MzV5u5iNug

No beadboard with shiplap IMO.

Two different styles. Colonial (vintage)l versus Farmhouse. (modern) Board and Batten with Shiplap not beadboard.

I would never put board & batten in a house. It looks like a converted garden shed.

Its all definitely very "cute". Good luck Travis. This is just the beginning.

Kaye you get the prize today for keeping cool under fire ;-) I follow Muskoka Living on IG - lots of drool-worthy interiors and exteriors with every kind of wood ceilings and walls you can imagine and in every size and mixed scales. If you're not familiar, take a look.

https://www.instagram.com/muskokalivinginteriors/

Is it possible to mess it up? Sure, I guess. But if I'm reading between the lines correctly part of what you're after is the charm of the inconsistent which is absolutely consistent with cottages and farm houses. Your *sin* is in giving the vision you have in your head a name and spilling it here where 'modern farmhouse' has become a call to pile on. Please come back to the monthly building threads with updates - I'd love to see what you're doing and know others would as well.

Should the title of the thread be, "What size board and batten should I use? Can you mix sizes in a house?" ?

What would the finish be, clear, painted, stained, etc? I would choose the most economical size of T&G.

My guess is white paint, in the living room, with latest issue of HGTV magazine.

(alluding to the board game Clue)

If this is a converted garden shed, give me board & batten, please.

https://onekindesign.com/2016/08/19/beautiful-examples-shiplap-home/

I have 22 foot ceilings in my great room, and used 8 inch shiplap. I will NEVER use someone like Mark Bischak as my architect -- I don't pay for arrogant condescension. My father, who is 93, was raised in a house with shiplap walls -- his father covered them over with the latest new thing (plaster) in the 1920's, which lasted 20 years. The Old Place, as the house was called even then, was built by my father's grandparents, who were adults when the Civil War started. Shiplap is not new -- it keeps being uncovered in old houses everywhere -- and obviously as styles change it can be covered and uncovered to suit, as it is a structural part of the house! It isn't like those lovely fieldstone colonial homes in New Jersey which were covered in stucco in the 1850's and now have to be painstakingly chipped away at, one inch at a time. Here in the south, high ceilings helps the heat rise, and shiplap swells and contracts (breaths) with the humidity, making the house very much a living thing. Go for it, Kaye! But keep it all one size..

Well...I think board and batten is a great wall finish, inside or out...at least for the right style of architecture.

Shiplap is also a good wall finish...again for the right style of house.

And Joanne, you don't know what your missing since you will NEVER use Mark as your architect.

If you are trying to evoke the feel of the old "summer cottages" present in Northern Michigan and some of the other parts of the midwest, they didn't start out with "ship lap" They started out framed, with tongue and groove siding and NO treatment on the interior walls at all. So you saw the back of the siding, which was often painted white. The genuine articles didn't HAVE plumbing, aside from possibly a kitchen pump. No pipes to worry about. Ditto electrical.

So, while something like shiplap WOULD help mimic that original feel, the fact that it was the back of the siding (which would have been all the same size) indicates that you should be consistent in your sizing on the interior. (if the whole "up north cottage" look is your goal)

ETA - often not so much painted white, as whitewashed, but to-may-to, to-mah-to.

Drywall will always be the least expensive way to create a wall, but you can add batten strips that are installed vertically or horizontally. Here are some images. There are naysayers who will scare you about the dust that will gather on the strips. I think either is an interesting appearance for a total home. Good Luck.

Kaye, the negative comments on shiplap May certainly because so many people are installing it where ever and however, without a thought to the design of the house Or room it’s going into. Ms. Gaines has made it so popular that people think any kind of wood clad is shiplap, which it is not. Plus so many of the installations are just plain bad. That, and everyone seems to be nuts over ”farmhouse“ and are using the trend anywhere - ranch style , cabins, Victorians, Craftsman, you name it. Sure, wood clad walls are certainly appropriate in a place where drywall isn’t an option, but proper styling is advisable. I love the vertical boards shown in the links above, which to me would be more appropriate with 14’ ceilings in a home on a lake in the woods.