This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

What is your style? Those vanity doors are pretty contemporary, so might be hard to go traditional.... Thoughts: 1) If you like the vanity cabinet just fine, or just want to maybe paint it and add a top, you might hunt around for a stone remnant for the top. I was quoted about $300 to cut and finish a soapstone slab with cutout for one undermount sink. It would probably be about $400 for two sinks. Low-end granite from a remnant selection was around the same cost. But I wouldn't spend that kind of money if you don't love the vanity itself. 2) If you want to buy something pre-made that doesn't have that triangle at the end, why not just build the triangle section out of something else. For instance, it could be like a wood shelving unit that fits in there (maybe floating so you could still fit the trash can!) with it's top somewhat higher than whatever prefab vanity top you get, so that there isn't a funny transition of materials... so it looks more intentional. it could even be a little piece of some fabulous stone like marble or whatever, because it won't cost very much for such a little piece with only edge finish and no cutouts.... 3) How handy are you? You could build a simple open shelving vanity (many pics on line of these now) with baskets, and splurge on a gorgeous stone top from a remnant yard. Or not eve, one of the pics below has a wood top, you could use semi-recessed sinks or vessels if you like those. Even cheaper :) Something like these: 4) Personally, I'd probably take the whole thing out and replace with an inexpensive vanity like Ikea's Godmoron units, either with their vanity top with a filler piece as I just described, or with a custom-made slab top. But that's probably going to run $500-$900 all told to do that. What's your budget?

I did one house where a previous owner had removed a closet to enlarge the bathroom. We handled it by stealing the coat space at the back entry and inserting a wardrobe cabinet above the bedroom baseboard thus avoiding rerouting ductwork on the back side. Built in cabinets count as closets here to qualify a room as a bedroom. I once was planning a tiny bedroom closet to get a room to qualify as a bedroom and I asked the building inspector if the closet was required. He said that code officials didnt care; if the room was large enough, had a suitable window, and a smoke detector, it was legal sleeping space. MLS rules dictate the criteria for a bedroom and the interpretation varies. Another potential issue is bedrooms in walk out basements, is it a large 1 bedroom with 3 dens or a 4 bedroom house? IKEA had a great sink that only projected about 10 inches into the room as the faucet was at the side not behind the basin. Too bad they discontinued the model before I started anything. That house has plenty of room to add a basement bathroom so that will probably be the first step.

Thanks for the advice! No DIY for sure... will be hiring professional contractor, plumber, architect and kitchen designer. I figure it would be pricey. The kitchen is 13ft by 6ft but of course the dumbwaiter is taking up a large portion of the space in the corner. The bathroom is 5ft by 8ft. The ceilings are 11ft tall so will definitely take advantage of the vertical space... what would you recommend for both the bathroom and kitchen? Should I expand the dumbwaiter large enough where I could possibly fit a fridge or keep it as a large closet instead? I spoke to my co-op board and I can expand the dumbwaiter but to be mindful of the low bearing walls. i am submitting a proposal to the co-op board before work begins.