Here’s what’s been blooming lately
Lisa Adams
4 years ago
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Comments (115)
Lisa Adams
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Seen What'sThatBug lately?
Comments (3)Cathy - you and me both. I have an aster and while it's a great nectar plant (for which I got it), I've yet to see a Pearl Crescent cat on it. I have a lot of PCs in the garden, and there could be some wild aster in my yard that I'm unaware of (I have a little mat growing one that doesn't pop up until late summer that the Dainty Sulphurs love to nectar on). I would imagine the native aster species would be the best ones to use as host plants. I also imagine the caterpillars are so small it is difficult to actually "find" them on the plant. I see evidence of something chewing on them, but have not found any cats. I imagine it's a geometrid cat of some kind. The leaves on mine are very robust and tough - wouldn't think that would make for a good dinner either. The only thing I dislike about the aster I have is that it blooms very late (as most asters do), but the flowers don't last very long on it. It is a beautiful plant in bloom, to say the least. How are you doing? Have you got everything planted yet? I haven't for sure. For one thing, it's been so darned wet here, I can't get anything in the ground! I saw that page the other day when I was looking for cats that resembled bird droppings, and you're right, it is pretty cool. They have really built up that site nicely since they started it a few years ago, haven't they? Susan...See Morediscepancy on late DL bloom time info
Comments (13)I agree that being a northern grower creates perplexing situations regarding bloom time. Up until this year I never had much concern about Evergreen vs Dormant. Then this spring I experienced a loss on an evergreen, and some problems with frost damage leading to mush on some others that I was able to save -- all were evergreens. That said, however, this year I have tried a new tack. The evergreen that I lost this spring was planted WAY late in the season, and I'm sure had not established itself well enough, and otherwise might have survived. Also, I did not mulch, and there was little snow cover along with freezing/thawing cycles all winter long. Many of my favorite daylilies are evergreens (many Munsons) and I continue to purchase evergreens, but more carefully in terms of planting times and mulching. As for late bloomers, Orchid Corsage (dormant) is very late for me this year and still blooming now. It is a strong grower. I found this list of hardy evergreens on the web somewhere (maybe posted here?) Here is the link. Here is a link that might be useful: list of hardy evergreens...See MoreWhat’s blooming in September 2019?
Comments (42)Finally having a chance to add more to this gorgeous thread. 'Rozanne' with Sedum 'Matrona' that have both been munched on by deer. Rudbeckia triloba Allium tuberosum - Garlic chives The last bloom on Clematis 'Rhapsody' R. 'Goldsturm' with Limonium latifolium Dianthus deltoides Lavender planted last fall Costmary Sanguisorba tenuifolia 'Alba' Ligularia 'Britt-Marie Crawford' with some seedlings I need to remove....See MoreWhat’s happening to my Camellias?
Comments (6)"the last 2 years they’ve started to open the tips of their buds months before they should be blooming." - It is completely normal for all types of camellias to produce flower buds months well ahead of the time when the flower buds actually open. Each cultivar's flower bud will develop from late summer to sometime in the fall and open at a different/appropriate time for that specific cultivar. Camellia sasanqua flower buds will typically develop and open flower buds in the summer/fall months, whereas Camellia japonica flower buds will develop flower buds in the fall and these will open later, anywhere from late fall through spring (April-May) depending on the cultivar, your geographic location as well the current local winter conditions. Flower buds can be damaged by cold temperatures. The flower buds can either fall/drop to the ground or turn completely or partially brown. Flower bud drop can -for example- occur when there is an environmental shock such as a large temperature drop from the 80s to below freezing in less than a day. If the flower buds turn completely brown due to cold damage, they are dead and will either fall quickly to the ground or not. Partially browned out flower buds may or may not open; it is difficult to guess what will happen with partially browned buds as it depends on the extent of the injury. To protect the plants and minimize the chances of flower bud problems, I maintain 3-4" of organic mulch all year around the plants, stop fertilizing 3 months before my average date of first frost and I also water deeply before temperature drops well below freezing. Small, quick temperature drops to freezing or slightly below, followed by warmer temperatures in the morning hours normally do not cause problems. The camellia plant usually survives occasional temperatures as low as +10° to 0°F. Camellia flower buds are damaged at temperatures below +10° to +15°F. Dry soil conditions promote flower bud injury. Open camellia blossoms normally are damaged at temperatures below +26° to +28°F. If your local winter temperatures are such that flower bud damage occurs often in most years, that indicates to me that the cultivar has a blooming time that is not appropriate for your location and one should consider using a cultivar that blooms earlier (before the flower buds are winter damaged in your area). Camellia sasanquas are the earliest blooming camellias, starting somewhere in the fall (varies by cultivar). Camellia japonicas and hybrids can start to bloom anywhere from December to April. If damage to japonicas tends to occur in March, consider using cultivars that open blooms before March (some of the earliest blooming ones open flowers in December). Camellias that are blooming may not have flower bud issues but may also temporarily delay opening more blooms for a few weeks (or even as long as a few months) if climatic conditions suddenly get very cold. From your pictures, I noticed that the soil appears to be dry and does not have any or much organic mulch. That may dehydrate the plant in winter or when drying winter winds occur. You may want to see if maintaining the soil moist at all times as best as you can and mulch help in future winters. I am assuming that the soil has not frozen where you live. Note: the first year that you got them, the plants were forced to bloom early by the wholesaler so they would arrive blooming at your local plant nursery. That is what wholesalers of all plants often do, not just camellia wholesalers....See MoreLisa Adams
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHalloBlondie (zone5a) Ontario, Canada
4 years agoLisa Adams thanked HalloBlondie (zone5a) Ontario, CanadaLisa Adams
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4 years agoK S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
4 years agoLisa Adams thanked K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)Lisa Adams
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoLisa Adams
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