If your plant is small & the pot plastic, it's really easy to develop a FEEL for how much water is in the soil by simply hefting the pot. Another way to check when water is/isn't needed is by feeling the soil at the drain hole. The first or second day it feels dry - the plant needs water. It's best to water on the first day the soil feels dry to the touch at the drain hole. You DO want to let the soil get fairly dry before watering (read the link on the 'basics' for more info). Perched water is your plant's enemy, so you want the soil to be without perched water for as long as possible as often as possible. I'll link you to a thread that can really help you reduce the ill effects of perched water, for which your plants will show their appreciation. This thread covers some basics that will help you avoid almost all the pitfalls that bring growers to this forum looking for help related to things cultural (soils, watering habits, light, fertilizing ......) and this one has the tips I mentioned that will help you reduce the effects of too much water retention in the soil. Best luck! Al

I sincerely apologize for the duplicate. I felt that the title needed to incidate that I had posted pictures of my own citrus leaf problems so I posted again thinking I could delete the original thread. I did not mean to cause a problem on the forum. Kim

Carol (Rosecanadian): There are many species of worms, and I hope your white worm is not what's stated on-line: "White worm is undoubtedly the most dangerous pest for the simple reason that there is no way of knowing it's there. White worms attack the roots of the rose bush until it dies. A good way to keep them away is by keeping the soil well fertilized." I agree with the fertilizing part, esp. giving roses enough alkaline minerals: calcium & potassium. Worm-infestation is worst in acidic soil and heavy rain that leach out minerals, making leaves thinner & curl up & more susceptible to pests. Below link states that there are 3 species of rose slugs: "Rose sawfly: Adult sawflies emerge in early spring and lay their eggs on the underside of host plant leaves. Larvae appear several weeks later, feed on soft leaf tissue for about a month, and then drop into the soil to pupate. European roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops) produces only one generation per year, but another related species, the bristly roseslug sawfly (Cladius difformis), can produce two to six generations per year. A third species, the curled roseslug sawfly (Allantus cinctus) generally produces two generations per year. The three species are all similar in color (light green), but are easily distinguished: bristly roseslug sawflies have bristle-like hairs covering the body, and curled roseslug sawflies curl up the body when at rest." http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/sawflies/rose-and-pear-slugs-sawflies.aspx Picture below is from above link:

I do have some C&S on hand, yes! 3 different kinds, in fact. This new hobby became an addiction quick, haha. They are all pretty much the same -- one's peat moss based and the other 2 are coco. 2 claim to have fertilizer beads that feed up to 3/6 months, but otherwise no major difference. That's so interesting.. I had no idea succulents could grow in straight inorganic matter. No wonder the nutrients really didn't matter, lol! I bought the Miracle Gro succulent food liquid pump for fertilizer that I will use when the season is right. Do plants actually know what season it is if they're always indoors under grow lights though? I don't get great light here unfortunately. I'm on a first floor apartment, north facing, with a building behind me blocking any "direct" sun it could get. They will always be inside. There is a humidifier nearby, but once spring/summer rolls around I'll have windows open more so it'll be natural humidity then. But yes - 2 is low. The meter is from 1 to 10. I'm starting to think the mix staying moist for too long, in addition to it not being gritty enough, was maybe due to the pot too... it definitely did stay moist longer than others I have in the same mix (terra cotta vs. ceramic, though)... it has a drainage hole, but it may need another. I might drill an extra in it to be on the safe side when I do re-pot with fresh soil. I worried about loving it to death, I've read so much about how many succulents will thrive on neglect. But you're right, the environment and so many other factors play a huge part. I can take care of fussy, drama queen calatheas but succulents are giving me a run for my money so far lol there will be much trial and error, I am sure. I'm so glad I joined this site though -- so, so informative. You've truly been such a great help! I'll have to post an update when it's time :)