There are closet systems available that don't touch the floor ... they hang on a track on the wall (Easy Closets is one maker). I wasn't aware that other floor-mounted systems required being nailed or screwed to the floor; I thought they were secured to the walls. I had sliding closet doors (triple doors) that hung freely from a track at the top and had no attachments to the flooring at all.

Beagles, engineered wood would also fade and I am prepared for that to happen. My current solid site finished hardwood has faded where it isn't covered by rugs/furniture. The only thing that will not fade is a good porcelain tile. I also like to have the windows uncovered most of the time, but will install roller blinds or cellular shades (that mostly disappear when open) for some sun control. Maybe I'll look into getting them motorized and on a timer, so I don't have to do it manually all around the house.

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.

I am looking for luxury plank vinyl floors to finish my basement. Does anyone have experience with tilebars line of LVP optoro. I am looking at Shaw and Coretec but see that tilebar has a new line of vinyl planks at a good price. I appreciate opinions about any of these brands. Thanks Houzz people! Tilebar optoro