Help with Drop Zone layout
5 years ago
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Comments (10)
- 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
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Need your help with Zones and layout
Comments (6)Zones look pretty good except I don't think there's enough Prep Zone workspace b/w the sink and range, especially with a diagonal corner like you show. You really should have at least 36", preferably closer to 42", b/w the corner and the range for decent work space. The counter on the right side of the range is not nearly as useful b/c it's so far from the sink and refrigerator...I would even venture to say that more than 24" to 30" is wasted space. What about something like this: 36" corner susan + 18" trash pullout + 21" drawer base + 30" range + 30" drawer base I dropped 6" b/c I don't think you want to go much past where the refrigerator ends on the opposite wall b/c it eats into your table space. If you don't mind, then: 36" corner susan + 18" trash pullout + 24" drawer base + 30" range + 33" drawer base You might also consider banquette seating under the two windows. It would free up some floor space, if you need to. It's a preference thing. Personally, I prefer chair seating, but many people really like their banquettes and children (and their friends!) seem to like them as well. You do have chairs on the outside, so you can accommodate everyone's preferences. With chairs against the wall, you really should have at least 32" b/w the table and wall to give someone room to get into/out of a chair. With a banquette bench, you only need about 18" (depending on the thickness of the back of the bench). As to the MW, you have it in a good spot...out of the way of all the major work zones yet close to the refrigerator and not too far from the sink (for adding water to what you're MWing). What about something like this? It does take away 18" of counter on the left leg of the "U" and 3" from the right leg... Is that too much? It gives you a lot more prep space as well as utility storage. Just an idea......See MorePark Hills Kitchen Layout Help - cannot line up zones
Comments (5)2) L-Shape with existing footprint This layout is preferable because I can get a longer run on the North wall, but there is a shorter run on the west wall. The first option keeps the opening into the family room as big as possible - I also love that the cook surface is as far as possible from the dining room. The second option addresses the workzone issue, but the d/w is on the left of the sink and I take up more of the wall into the family room. D/W on the left seems like it would be awkward. (Side note, the slider to the deck is at the North end of the family room - I'm hoping to keep the path to deck shorter - thus the entrance into the family room is moving North. I will have a couch along the south end of that wall so I need to have about 110" of coverage.)...See MoreKitchen and drop zone design advice
Comments (33)My husband was thinking of using the old refrigerator space as a real closed off closet. I wanted to use it as a mail sorting counter/desk. How you use the old fridge space will depend on your needs. Do you need more closet space for coats more than a mail sorting/desk area? Is there somewhere else that coats can go? Ditto for the mail sorting/desk area. If you go with Plan B, perhaps the latter can go in the peninsula area. Maybe you can re-purpose the existing hutch. You can cover any interior mess with fabric or decorative paper on the glass cab doors (corn starch should work and won't harm the piece). I like that option B has a place for non-cooking people to be in the kitchen... Can you think of a way to add feature to option A? What would you think of a small, moveable (maybe on wheels) island? I think the peninsula seating and salvaging the DR hutch are a big plus of Plan B. I'll keep working on a way to add counter seating to Plan A. No, a small movable island is not the solution for Plan A. You do not have enough room between perimeter runs. A movable island would *always* be in the way. The only way I can see adding island seating of any sort is to go with a U lay-out with an 18" wide island that is nothing more than counter with seating. IOW, no storage. It would be similar in size to the long, narrow island in the kitchen pic that I posted on Saturday. Or something like this (but possibly even narrower, I think). How many counter seats do you hope to get? What is the minimum number? I'm open to moving the dining room/living room wall, but I'm thinking of planning that for "phase 2." Thoughts or considerations if moving that wall is to be done at a later date? Moving or removing the wall can be part of "phase 2." I would definitely add the window seat now, though, so that your narrow study/DR will be comfortable. I estimate that the room currently is about 8.5' wide, which is quite narrow for a dining room. A window seat will help ease the space crunch around the table. I'm estimating that your table is 42" round. If it hangs over the window seat by 4", that would leave 66" of aisle between table and LR wall, which allows some room for the table to be extended. FYI, 44" is NKBA's recommended minimum aisle width behind seating to allow people to walk past seated diners. 36" is enough room for people to slide past. We have 28" between kitchen table and couch but DH is the only one who sits on that side of the table; we only need enough room to pull the chair out, not an aisle between table and couch. I'm estimating that the bay is about 2' deep at its deepest. If you don't add a window seat but use that additional depth for a chair, you'd have 50" between table and LR wall and 36" between table and window. Or center it in the room and have 43" at the left and right end. This works as long as it's just a round table. You lose the additional 2' depth from the bay when you extend the table so you'd end up with 31" to the left and right of the table, which is very tight. That's why I suggest that you remove or move the existing wall between study and LR. It would seem out of scale to have a large LR, FR and kitchen and a dinky little DR. Moving the wall will require drywall/plaster repair and floor repair. Depending on what's inside the wall (plumbing, HVAC), you may have to relocate things to other walls. I think it would be a good idea to determine what's inside this wall when you do Phase 1 so that you can plan ahead and avoid having to redo work done in Phase 1 when you do Phase 2. A competent GC should be able to help you with this. How many adults do you think could comfortably be seated in the new living room? I estimate that the new LR will be 13' x 13.5' (guessing on the first since you didn't provide measurement for space, top to bottom). Smaller than you currently have but still doable, IMO. You should be able to get a full size couch and 2 chairs or 2 full size couches or some other configuration of seating. How many do you need to accommodate? What LR furniture do you already own? This seems like a detail, but it would be nice to have a spot to store brooms and mops with a shelf for cleaning supplies and an outlet for charging the handheld vacuum. Where would you put that? You can add a broom closet pull-out in the mudroom area or in a cab next to the pantry cabs. Or in your existing pantry area by the back stairs. Pics of the existing pantry area would be helpful to see how they could be reworked to suit your needs. Lastly, I can't thank you enough. This is all super helpful! I love your suggestions and your photos. Your kitchen is lovely. Are you a professional? Thanks again! You're welcome! And thank you! And nope, just a TKO floorplanaholic (Totally Kitchen Obsessed). =) What would be helpful for you and DH, and for me would be for you to determine what things you want/need to store in the drop zones, how much room these items need and what type of storage is most useful for them. Coat hooks? Cubbies for sports gear? Shoe storage? Drawers for school papers? Charging station? How much mail sorting area do you need?...See MoreCabinet layout OK, need help with drop zone details please!
Comments (15)@clueless, there is actually 42" between the counter and the pantry wall. And we're doing bypass doors, specifically so I don't have to move people sitting there to open the pantry. The hall alongside the bathroom is 40". There are an additional 6" between the wall and appliances once you get past the bathroom. So with a 10" deep shelf, it would still leave plenty of room to pass. It's not a through way, just in and out for primarily me. However, we do plan to live here forever, so storage here will be modular or freestanding so we can change it easily as our requirements change. Like finally having both girls grown out of Girl Scouts so I can retire from my post as "assistant troop leader in charge of pretty much everything creative" and get rid of troop craft supplies. This is the only really usable storage we have on the ground floor other than kitchen cabinets and the bathroom vanity. We do have a closet under the stairs, but the configuration of the walls in there makes it unbelievably bad. That's a project for another time. Not using it is not an option...See MoreRelated Professionals
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