something magical about manure that makes it better than compost?
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? about composted manure
Comments (22)Greetings, everyone! I've been lurking this forum and soaking up the amazing wealth of knowledge for a few weeks now. I now have a question of my own, pertaining to the topic of this thread: I plan to start an organic vegetable garden in several raised beds (to be constructed) over this fall and winter. Since the beds are not constructed yet, there is no rush on the project (other than that they should be ready for my next planting season). I originally started composting to dispose of my own yard waste (Bermuda grass clippings, leaves, fruit and vegetable peels, etc), and I planned to use it to topdress my lawn and amend the soil. I've since caught the bug, and I have lots of plans for the compost. I want to also amend and mulch my 4 citrus trees, and I'd like to create the gardens. I've been composting in 3 bins I've received from my city. They were 90 gal. garbage cans, but have had the bottoms cut off and holes drilled in the sides. I've been successful in creating about 60 gallons of compost since May. Not too bad for a novice, eh? ;) Anyway, to finally get to my question: There are several places nearby that will gladly provide free manure, from either cow, horse, or even goat. I've been considering "mass producing" composted manure for the afore-mentioned purposes. I think I can have a free steady supply of browns. The landscapers who service my HOA will give me the leaves weekly if I ask. My question is: would this be suitable for my purposes? I could continue composting in the bins, but I oould instead fabricate a larger bin from some free pallets (which might be a better choice, since I plan to build a garden in that site anyway). Would the browns(leaves) be enough "vegetable material" to innoculate the pile? Oh, and by the way...I'll continue to compost my kitchen scraps...with worms indoors! Sorry for the neverending post! Thanks in advance!...See MoreMushroom Compost vs. Manure Compost
Comments (6)What a great question -- you made me look it up. I read somewhere (not sure if true) that mushroom compost is usually basic (and for that reason, not to be used on my blueberries). That would be one difference. Mushroom compost is a by-product of mushroom farming. I think it does not have as much nitrogen as manure compost (since the mushrooms used most of it already) and there's a warning that the salts in pure mushroom compost may burn seedlings. Depending on the supplier, it may also have pesticide residues?! Ok, now I'm wondering WHY I put 2 bags of it on the veggie bed instead of using cheaper chicken manure compost. Phooey! :(...See MoreQuestion about composted manure
Comments (20)Since by far the vast majority of the bagged manure sold comes from feed lot operations, CAFO's, that feed immense quantities of antibiotics to the cattle on those feed lots the cance of getting manure that is less than active, as it once was, today is very good. If you have not yet contacted the people at your local office of the Kansas State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good reliable soil test done, do so and then dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to get an idea about what is going on with your soil....See MoreCompost vs. composted manure
Comments (18)folks just a tip,i use for my tomatoes, i have all raised beds,i take a 5 lb,coffee can drill holes into bottom one qtr about 8 then put in rabbit manurecouple hands full,then some leaves cut over with lawn mower twice then wet it, then put some straw on top wet it, screw on lid, put into soil about 4 inches,leave for spring i usally check 2 or 3 times before if some room i add coffee grounds, under straw, now by spring lotsssssss of worm poop now i dig hole with post hole digger add about half can to each hole, put in 2 tea spoons of epsom salt wowwww the toms i get close to record here in ga on one plant had 81 lbs, oh when can empty redo this set can filled back in a new hole when worms u dumped ready they will come right back this way no getting worms out of poop,lol lol im a little lazy lol tu happy gardening...See MoreRelated Professionals
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