Hello, Why not just make an earthbox out of the pot. Insert the plastic inverted pot inside and drill a overflow hole through the outer pot just below the level of the aeration screen. Then drill a larger hole in the plastic pan and insert a plastic pail or cup for the wicking chamber (drill a few holes in it first). You could also add breathable landscape fabric on top of the screen to keep any potting mix from falling between the two pots. If you can post some pictures of your pots I am sure that we can figure somthing out. Please check out my website for a lot of information about self watering containers. Thanks, Joe Here is a link that might be useful: my website

The soapstone fabricator is claiming that the crack was caused by someone "stepping" on the stone before the thinset was dry. That is impossible since my GC had to refill it with water for 24 hours to ensure that the shower pan below had not been damaged during the install (they dinged the tar hot mop underneath while installing). In any case, they are here now and have applied Wood & Stone Acrylic Penetrating Crack Filler, which presumably they plan to sand down after it is dry. They dumped lots of acetone on and cleaned and dried the area thoroughly. I know this does not get at the root of the problem, but what experience do folks have with how much this product will hide and seal the crack? The stuff is supposed to be water thin and able to penetrate into the crack.

We have an LG front load washer that has sprung 4 leaks in less than 4 years. First it was a water line coming from the cold water inlet valve, then the bellows hose, then the cold water inlet valve, and now the hot water inlet valve. The washer and drier are in a tight area in our laundry room, and the leaks have all been towards the rear of the washer. This makes them difficult to notice, as the water has been pooling up under the rear of the washer against the baseboard. My wife noticed water squishing out from under one of the 12 x 12 ceramic tiles in front of the washer a few days ago. I went under the house and found a water-logged OSB subfloor that is crumbling. Now I get to pull up the tile, hardyboard, and subfloor. I bought a drain pan from Home Depot that I'll have to install once the new floor goes down. My question is, is there a trick to getting a drain pan under the washer without breaking it, or should I set the washer down in it, then slide it in place?

I'm VERY late to the party, but in case others stumble onto this page..... I have a similar issue, but my waste line going out is 4 feet above the basement floor. I had an estimate as well, and very costly. What I'm doing is adding a "upflush system - Saniflo. Just as the sump pump is another thing that can break, so is the whole you put into your foundation. Concrete absorbs water, so why cut/create "cracks" that are not needed? If a home owner ever has a crack in the wall or floor, it's considered a problem needing to be fixed. So why create a "potential" problem? I'm keeping the bath floor as is, building a 2x10 or 12 platform for shower that will cause shower floor to be 12"-14" high. Then decide if i want 1 step or two, depending on the entry height. Entery height being the step into the shower. So, is that entry level the height of the shower curb? Shower floor? Shower base? Then take that height and divide by # of steps wanted or code for step risers. EX: If I want the entry step to be the same level as the SHower floor, thus just having to step over the curb, on a 2x10 = .5" tile 2.5" Shower pan (4.5" Shower pan curb-2" inside drop to shower floor/entry level = 2.5" .5" plywood 9.25 2x10 = 12.25 step(s) height /by 2 = 6&8th per step (2) without account tread height.