IF there was a proper foundation put in at the proper depth below frostline, and IF the wall was properly sloped/stepped, and IF sufficient and properly placed drains/weepholes were NOT used, you may being seeing the result of water at work. Whether it washes out the foundation, or collects and applies pressure, water can cause problems which have to be addressed as part of the repair. Is 20x10 the size of the affected wall? If so, you've got one tall wall! French drains, weepholes, and an extensive gravel backfill are usually used to handle the dispersement of water, although proportions depend on the soil type, the backfill, and the climate. I have also seen a "dropped" effect caused by building on marine clay, which over time literally slid the wall out of place. OTOH, if 20x10 refers to a section of paving which has dropped, then you are possibly looking at a poorly done base [foundation] in the parking area, --whether due to insufficient tamping or to frost heave or to insufficient depth of gravel base -- the damaged area can be removed, the cause corrected and then re-topped without too much problem. You shouldn't repair until you know what caused the drop. Cement jacking is of no use on marine clay; and it's a cosmetic repair [of unguessable duration] if the drop was caused by hydraulic pressure trying to find a way to let out accumulated water. Link is to nicely written, very concise article about retaining walls. Here is a link that might be useful: Retaining walls

So the fans seem to work? I had been interested in the sealers as well because our basement developed some mildew after we moved in--but I read somewhere that they stop working and that you need to re-apply. Is this true? I will check if there is a code for radon fans here. Have you had your level checked since you had the fan installed? The radon really bothers me. I hope that we haven't lived here long enough for it to have hurt the kids. We did not have our own agent when we bought our house and the seller's agent said "as a science teacher, I can tell you that you have nothing to worry about with radon. It is an odourless gas that cannot hurt you and I think you should save money and not get the test." We got the test, but the results came in after we had made an offer. He was obviously knew the level was high and was not working in our best interest (although he took the cut as if he had been our agent too.) I can't imagine that the New York Realtor's association would condone that kind of talk about radon.

Thank you everyone. I'll make a general reply to everyone. The damaged areas have all been drywalled, taped, textured and primed, but I'm still struggling with paint colors in that area so we've been painting bedrooms instead. (whole house reno.). Basically, all the drywall was done and over. Some of the damaged areas were on walls with a flat texture (i.e. no texture) and some on walls with a sprayed orange peel. I wouldn't feel comfortable patching either kinds of texture myself. If you patch an orange peel area, how do you get the texture back on the flat patch you just did? Our painting company is called Breezy DH, Inc. We're DIYing where we can, and wall and ceiling paint is certainly doable. No painters fixing holes. :( We did decide to have our trim and doors professionally caulked, sanded, and sprayed as it would take DH many months to do that painstaking, detailed work with his schedule. I am the GC so it does fall to me to take care of this. I finally heard back from the flooring company. My rep will be stopping by in the morning to take a look at the walls. He did give me some slight bs about damage below the trim, but agreed that there shouldn't be damage above. Accidents happen, but I know they were moving very fast and didn't seem that careful when I watched them several times during the first two days. I will not have the floor installers do the repairs. Didn't fall off the turnip truck yesterday. :)

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