Final Plans - have incorporated most suggestions that made sense. -Back middle bathroom has tub in front, door moved to left to leave room for towel rack or hooks. -master shower widened to full 4 feet X 5'10" with head on back wall to allow for possible doorless shower. - front right bedroom closet squared off. - all kids bedroom closets now have slider doors to allow for full mirrors (have them now and work well). - worked out the pocket door on the master toilet room - it fits okay - am going with double hung windows in front of house, but casements on sides and back. Casements are smaller for the same egress requirements and allow for more wall space in bedrooms Still some small cleanup on the plans, but pulled the trigger on the construction drawings. thanks to everyone for all the assistance. Don't think I would be at this point without all the interaction and advice.

In #1 you really need to consider headering, support for the header, milling the studs to conform to lath deformation caused by tile masonry base coat. 2) "I have a situation" To quote Dave Hester YUUUP "Both doors would need to slide to the same side and could either be enclosed in a pocket or left visible." If you are building a pocket in the room, why do you need two doors? If the pocket is in another room or outside the building envelope, how is it going to be encased or wether protected?

I would guess that the hardware has everything to do with it. Check the hardware. It probably has a rating for how heavy a door it is designed for. Look for ball bearings in the rollers. Check this site. It has hardware for doors up to 300 pounds.

Thank you. This information just led to a ton of information gathering and I feel like I'm on the verge of seriously overanalyzing this. Johnson frames come in several series but they make a frame with "soft close" hardware which is only available on their entry level 1500 series frames. The higher level frames are able to handle heavier doors and such but don't have a soft close option. If I'm using basic solid core doors that aren't going to push the weight limit, am I losing anything by using the 1500 series? This is the Johnson door. Before now I didn't know there were soft close pocket doors. In this case, the Johnson door is both soft open and soft close. Neat! My searching didn't lead me to any other frames that come with soft close hardware but I did find other companies that manufacture just the hardware, which you have to install on the door/frame. I'm afraid this is one of those things that could be a major project with little noticeable benefit. Should I just get the Johnson soft close frame and be done with it or is there much to gain by obsessing over the decision?