Pierre, my friend, I must tell you that your assumptions and your facts are wrong. Your contention here and on Steve's own website that Steve had sullied Clara's dream is deeply offensive. Steve, not you, had the relationship with Clara for more than 25 years. Your words were harsh. Fact: HMF does not include data from CRL. Rose availability is independently researched and entered into the HMF database. Fact: CRL provides a written list of roses in commerce. Fact: Modern Roses provides a written list of rose names. Fact: Illustrated encyclopedias of roses provide printed rose pictures. Fact: Rose books, Modern Roses and patent applications all record rose lineages - - in unrelated, disconnected locations. Fact: HMF combines all of these things, and much more, instantly accessible, interconnected and searchable using the power of computers and the internet. Fact: Ever more people want access to roses online. The ARS now makes its database available online. The CRL, like newspapers, must deal with that reality. We call it progress. Progress is not immoral. Fact: HMF was engineered by its owner, Steve, without outside financial support. What could possibly be more frugal than that? Fact: One man operating his own website, by definition, cannot be unrestrained management. Fact: HMF's volunteer admins produce content by adding every new rose, every botanical garden inventory, every patent, every nursery supplier, and every book reference to HMF. Their anonymity is part of the site's opaque inner workings that never disturb users. That users are invited to correct them publicly does not mean their contributions are de minimus. Fact: If rosarians want HMF to be around, we will need to support it financially. I have personally purchased my premium membership for just that reason. Rose nurseries are not numerous enough or rich enough to provide sufficient financial support for HMF. I am sorry, but your scenarios does not exist. HMF represents innovation, not monopoly. There is a big difference. Respectfully, Cass

Thank you all for your suggestions. Believe me, being able to vent my frustrations here at 1:00am really helped. I've really been a mess over this. I try to keep perspective, but after months of sleep deprivation, it's hard. Maybe I was a little pissy in my last post, but it was my birthday yesterday, and just wanted to have a nice day instead of it being ruined my these issues. You are right - a large part of the problem is shoddy construction. I do understand that my noise is annoying to my downstairs neighbor. That is why I've been trying to be as quiet as possible. I know that he was probably startled by it. His complaints are valid. But I also feel that I should be able to make a bit of normal noise at 8:30 pm, when I am very quiet 99% of the time, and never late at night. By the way, my upstairs neighbor walks around in heels, vacuums, moves furniture, and blasts music (in weird one minute intervals) from 11:00pm to 3:00 am after I have repeatedly talked to her about this. I don't really care about the rest of the day in terms of cleaning, walking and guest noises -just the night. She openly admits to being loud late at night, and has told me 'I will do what I want, if you can't deal with my f*-in schedule, then move'. That is why I think she is slime. I left a long message for my landlords this morning. They immediately came over (while I was at work), and talked to my downstairs neighbor. They will be coming this weekend to fix the floorboards - I am so relieved about this! I agree that he was out of line last night. If he continues to complain and slam on my floor once the floorboards are fixed, then I will definitely say something to him. My landlords then went upstairs and talked to the female tenant about being quiet between 10 and 7am. She was completely rude and arrogant to them, and told them that she will do whatever she wants whenever she wants. So, they went to the police and gave them her name - the police said to call them if she does anything really loud again. They then went back and told her they did this, and I think it really freaked her out. (oddly enough, my landlords told me that she had a black eye. She also told them she stopped working, doesn't care about getting a job, and will live off the money she gets from her 'other people'. Don't ask me how she can afford a Lexus. Must be nice.) Sorry to speculate. It's just strange. Again, I don't really think that the police route is the way to go, but if it will scare her into being more considerate..... My landlords also told me that they have a potential 'rent with option to buy' house that I am going to see tomorrow. I think it's out of my price range, but they are actually willing to rent it to me at the price I'm renting right now, for the first few months. I have really great landlords, I have to say. I really appreciate them. They did not have to be so proactive about this, but they did. I really called them just to make a complaint, and to talk about getting out of my lease. Instead, they immediately tried to remedy the situation. I know that there are a lot of awful landlords out there, and I am lucky to have people that actually care about their tenants. thank you all so much! I wish you all peace, quiet, and relaxation in your apartments (or houses).

@ earl. #1....your homes structure first must meet deflection for the specific tile's rating. and that is not achieved nor improved by using any brand cement board, thinset or not. The majority of the tile floors i see fail have a cement board and thinset approach on top of a un-approved mix of joist and poor subflooring.. There is no structural benefit from Cement board under your tile it is simply used to raise a floor elevation and give a bonding surface for the thinset/tile so it matters not if its 1/4 or 1/2" cbu. You first need to meet deflection with structural materials and MATH. That happens with lumber and means exp1 plywood of 1/2' or better at each layer ( no 3/8' or 15/32" etc.) installed properly with, fastener placement/type, cross blocking, grain direction, lapping joints properly, glue, and with uncoupling in mind. FIRST. How you arrived at 1-1/8" is also of question/concern unless it is 2 layers exp1 @ 5/8" +1/2" installed properly.. Lasty when you run into TGI or trusses that have such O.C. spans, and they dont Jive with the Deflectolator on that other forum that some mentioned, you need to contact the MFG of Truss to get their deflection/loadspan directly from MFG. As an installer of Waranteed tiled floors, I can tell you there is a lot to it and cement board is not the answer....but then I tear out a lot of failed DIY or semi pro floor installs and replace them with an Industry compliant warranteed install, so I am a bit over the top with the "How to" properly tile a floor for these forums... I did enjoy this comment Amazing that some folks will use the wrong/cheap way to set a floor because they "Can't Afford It," and when it fails, they can somehow afford to have it ripped out and re-done????

Glue, if it is applied correctly will form the primary bond. It 'should' last the life of the house. Mechanical fasteners, screws or nails, are used to help draw the plywood subfloor down to the joist, essentially clamping the floor to the joists as the glue dries. The mechanical fasteners also act as a back up system for areas where the glue may not bond for some reason. I won't go into that now. Personally, I prefer screws to nails because they draw the plywood down with greater effect especially when you consider the carpenters use nail gun now, rather than hand nailed. These guns will drive a nail so fast that if the plywood and joists are not tight together the nail may just span between them instead of draw them together. So, if your floor is already glued and nailed and it was done in a craftsmen like technique, you are probably fine. If you want great insurance and strength in the floor, install the screws. I specify them at 8" on center. This will not create any harm, only help the construction be stronger. Hope this helps.