Water Feature repair- Need Guidance
Aakanksha Bhardwaj
4 years ago
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Comments (14)
cat_ky
4 years agoIzzy Mn
4 years agoRelated Discussions
newbie needing guidance
Comments (4)Okay, thats a lot of questions. Depth: 2 feet is good enough for zone 5 so 2.5 should be just fine. 6 X 6 is a little small for volume but should be fine. If you have predators, raccoons namely, it could be a foot or two wider. Liner: 6" should be okay, I like to have at least a foot just to be safe. Also DO NOT cut the liner close on the edge once it is rocked. The sides will settle eventually, leave excess so you can pull out a little more. (I double the excess over so I can use it later if needed.) Fall: If you are putting liner under the rubber maid, don't use the rubber maid. It sounds like more trouble than its worth. No lip means water leaks, cutting a lip means possible liner damage... If you're putting liner under it, just use liner. Size is strictly what you want it to look like. Just remember to keep it plenty smaller than the lower pond, flooding occurs regularly if the lower pond can't contain the upper and stream if the power goes out. Sun: Shade isn't necessarily a bad thing, but most flowering water plants don't perform well in shade they like full sun. There are a small selection of lilies that can perform, but they still want at least a half day. Fish: Can be added at any point. Make sure to dechlor! Better to start with cheap fish and add better as needed. Treatment: Everyone will tell you different. Bioseeding is overrated in my opinion. A bucket of pond water and stuff from an established pond does as well as anything. Treatment is the same, Aqua-One is my best suggestion, lots of people like algae-cides, I prefer more natural treatments. Plants: Hyacinth want FULL sun, lettuce like a little shade. anacharis just need some rocks to weigh them down, can be planted but not necessary. Lilies would be best chance of arc en ciel or chromatella off the top of my head. I think that should help a little at least. Good luck....See MoreRepair water damaged solid maple hardwood
Comments (2)I assume here that this is site-finished maple flooring, yes? If so, then perhaps the person who originally finished the flooring can do the expert repair for you. Basically what you want to do is replace the damaged section with matching material (if replacement is even warranted here) and then finish just those replacement boards with the same products originally used. Any good floor finisher ought to be able to make an almost invisible repair. I've done many. If you attempt to DIY this, then search youtube for videos posted by professionals describing the process....See MoreNeed guidance on sealing exterior walls from moisture intrusion
Comments (7)When you say perimeter drainage, do you mean something like a french drain where you dig out a trench around the perimeter, install a perforated pipe and back fill it with gravel? I just want to make sure I understand your suggestion. Yes, although there is more detail than that. As in all things there are degrees of doing as well. Code, best practices for the area and absolute best can be pretty different. Retrofit on a slab on grade is easy to do absolute best. Dig your trench, line with geotextile fabric leaving enough fabric for the last step. Place your bed of drain rock such that the drain pipe will follow the actual foundation all around. So your trench will have to be deep enough and wide enough to accomplish all this. You probably can't make it too wide but there are material constraints and you want to leave some yard, eh? Fit your perforated pipe. Do not use the black, corrugated stuff, use the white perforated drain pipe. Before you glue, figure out where all this will drain to. Out the front, side or back? It has to go away, not just in a circle. Use sewer pipe if there is any chance of vehicle traffic running over it. Sock the perforated pipe. Lay, don't throw, drain rock over the pipe once all fittings have been glued up, do not dislodge or break the pipe. Wrap the geotextile fabric from step one over the drain rock/pipe install. Top the geotextile with pit run, then with a decorative mulch or a stone garden or anything but plantings. Place foundation beds/plantings out from the home, leave the area in which your drainage runs clear. As your plantings mature the void behind them goes away. Most people cram the foundation plantings way to close to the house anyway. OK, so there are technical terms for all this but I've tried to keep it simple, for me, lol. Kaib has it...think like a rain drop or in this case like ground water coming up and/or surface water percolating down. You want to make it easy for it to go somewhere else. Its all downhill from there. And, if I may say, a fun and satisfying project given slab foundation. I've done too many basement foundation walls and that entail a lot of digging....See MoreAmateur orchardist in need of your experience and guidance on design
Comments (14)Doug, 10 foot on center is too close especially for the stone fruit. They grow like weeds and spread out. You will be spending alot of time pruning and keeping the growth in check if you want to keep the spread of each tree to less than than five feet on a side. Peaches & apricots, for example, grow fruit only on last year's wood. There is constant renewal pruning that needs to be done each year. So far, my apricots, plums, peaches and nectarines have put on 6-8 feet of growth EACH season during their first 4-5 seasons which I have had to "trim". And, if you want ONLY a 2 foot path between each tree the radius of each tree will only be 4 feet. Except for the center and side isles you are developing a solid 10-15 foot tall hedge as the trees grow into each other. That would also cut down on light penetration and kill air-circulation within the trees. Also, you should orient the orchard so the rows run north-south. There are many more aspects to this project and setting up a consult with some experienced people will yield dividends. As an aside, I would consult with a few different people to get a more encompassing point of view. You'd be surprised at the differing philosophies and viewpoints out there and each person will naturally speak more favorably (forcibly?) in support of his/her outlook. Just remember, there NOT just ONE way to do this. There are many ways to do this right as there are many ways to do this wrong. Choose the method that works with your "head". Because, if you don't enjoy what you are doing as you are doing it will be a very short lived project. You need to like what you are doing so you don't let the inevitable disappointments and setbacks to derail you. Just remember , they call it "farming" not "harvesting" or "fishing" and not "catching" for a reason. ;) Mike...See MoreAakanksha Bhardwaj
4 years agoKstug
4 years agoRevolutionary Gardens
4 years agokentc
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoci_lantro
4 years agosdello
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoAakanksha Bhardwaj
4 years agoAakanksha Bhardwaj
4 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agokentc
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSaltiDawg
4 years ago
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