goldenmom, i would like to echo the advice to check out celticmoon's restained cabs. she has contributed to other threads too and somewhere has her method and materials posted. she did not have to sand everything off....just a light scuffing. but it's because of the products she used. really nice job. girlwithasprin did a great paint job on her cabs. personally, i think a bit of the grain showing thru is very nice. it doesn't really "show"....just keeps some of the rich texture of the wood which i think is much nicer than just flat paint. snookums, i got all caught up in your kitchen! you mentioned your flooring is laminate and that you love it. is that still true, because that's what i would like to go with. it's gorgeous!! and so is your kitchen.

Gee, this comes up every few months. Here is before and after with gel stain Before: (prior owner there, not me) And after With apologies to those sick of seeing this reposted, here's is my excessively detailed how-to: GEL STAINING INSTRUCTIONS It is a very doable project. You just need time, $50 in supplies, and patience. No skill. Here's more than you need to know: My cabinets were frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinet were 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain or finish was even put on the hinge side edges. Bad workmanship. I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind of like mine, but darker. That was the answer. First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly, then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on the Woodworking Forum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare wood. (Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slowly.) Long ago when I was young and stupid I properly stripped acres of woodwork in an old Victorian. Never again! Jennifer-in-Clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on that woodworking thread to get to this method. SHOPPING LIST: -electric screwdriver or screw drill bits -mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet -miracle cloths (optional) -fine sandpaper -box-o-disposable gloves from Walgreens or the like -old socks or rags for wiping on coats -disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for stirring/dipping (optional) -General Finishes water base Espresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a gel) NOTE: This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark enough. -General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based) -General Finishes clear top coat (poly based) -old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small. SETUP AND PLANNING: You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces: garage for sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newspaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry. Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10-minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks. PREPARATION: Take off doors and drawer fronts. Try using screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric screwdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark alike things so you know what goes back where.* Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong and scrub well. There's years of grease there. Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to clean and get the last of the gunk off. STAINING: In order, we're gonna put on: -General Finishes Espresso water based stain (1 coat) - optional -General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats) -General Finishes Clear urethane gel topcoat in satin (couple coats) But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring). Glove up. ***First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone suffice. If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Espresso and return it. Open and stir up the Espresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl. Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand, grab a gob of Espresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well - overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with any other coat or sealer. A second coat might result in a deeper tone at the end - though it seemed like the second coat was just dissolving the first. YMMV. Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*= messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown. Wait for the second coat to judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color, like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. I did not sand between coats. Repeat with clear gel topcoat. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen. Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toe kick area. Might need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/etc. NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly. FINISHING AND REASSEMBLY: I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear gel coat. Or two. (See my follow up notes below). Install your hardware. The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color. FINAL THOUGHTS: Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be sure it is the look you want. Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry, recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and this will save you a LOT of work. Front-end patience is worth it. This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60 pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good. Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And after a year of pretty heavy use, I had just a few nicks, easily repaired. (6/08 Add: I'm now (18 months later) seeing some wear near the pulls on the most used cabinets. Will add color with Java if it bugs me.) (9/09 Add: Never did bother to touch up those couple spots. Bugging me a bit more, and I will get to it soon. It is the drinking glass cabinet and the snack cabinet, LOL. And the garbage pull-out. The rest still looks perfect. Lesson: Use an extra coat or 2 of gel on the way frequently used cabinets.) (12/09 Add: I did finally touch up the spots that were worn. Used just Java to get the color right, then a bunch of top coats. Looks perfect again.) I added smashing hardware, raised my pass-through, resurfaced the Corian (also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay for the update!! Link to cabinets in progress: http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen%20cosmetic%20update%20project/kitchen%20during/ Link to almost finished cabinet pix: http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen%20cosmetic%20update%20project/finished%20bit%20by%20bit/?start=20 It's been about 3 years and I am still very happy with the outcome.

I prefer the idea of gel staining oak rather than going with white paint. Oak is a beautiful wood that gets beaten down because of the golden 80s-90s look. Gel staining shows the wood to it's finest glory. There are a handful of GWebbers who have gone down this beautiful gel stain path. It is not easy! However, There are also companies that can do this too. I am in the process of tryng to decide if I want to hire someone to tackle a small bathroom project or DIY. I am in the very early stages of removing wallpaper so I will let you know in weeks how this project unfolds. Meanwhile here are some pictures that might inspire. ~boxer GW post Have you gel stained your oak cabinets? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0609355831889.html Gel Stain on Stock Kitchen Cabinets http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0111341112309.html%3F9 gel stain on oak? http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg1114224818712.html?13 Gel stain vs. Polyshades http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0113571013162.html Here is a link that might be useful: scroll down to find link to Celtic Moon's beautiful space

blakey - not it's not. It is Danby Vermont Marble. I found it at Dente in NJ and I absolutely love it! I could show you pictures of disappointing Calacutta Gold marble that we bought, at tremendous expense, for our master bath. The slabs were very white with a LOT of gray and barely any of the gold color my husband so loved in the sample. We had to keep buying a ton of the floor tiles to try to get the whitest tiles we could, so they would look right with the slab couters and sills. In hindsight, I don't think my husband would have gone for the Calacutta Gold marble, knowing what he knows today. About my marble top - I had "final" cleaners in (that I hired at great personal expense since my GC's cleaners were pathetic) yesterday, the day before our scheduled move. Four people cleaned for 7 hours in my kitchen, removing all drawers, cleaning inside the cabinet boxes, inside all the filthy brand new appliances inside and out, etc. They were almost done when my GC had the fabricator's workmen in to my kitchen to grind out the long, curved gouge one of his workers put in my island top! This, after I left specific and sternly worded instructions that my marble top was to be REMOVED because I did not want marble dust all over the kitchen after the cleaners were here. They ground the top. I walked in after 15 minutes and started screaming and cursing at anyone in sight! We were not able to move in today. My top looks like you-know-what. I am not ever speaking to my GC again; he has to go through my husband for EVERYTHING now, because my breath is wasted on him since he clearly doesn't listen to me. I'm so angry I could (and did, many times) cry! (Grrrrrr.)