You've probably never been in a home with properly sized ductwork. Don't feel bad, it's estimated that as much as 3/4 of the heating and cooling systems in the US are oversized. 2 stage and modulating furnaces are better, but I've lived in a home with both, and both can be very comfortable and the single stage equipment doesn't make it feel more dry that I can tell. BUt you are correct, multistage cna reduce the sense of dryness you might get with a less than ideal system. THe RH of hot air is lower than cooler air, but cool air can make things feel drafty. That's why radiant heat is popular. You essentially have very, very low air velocities and much of the heat energy is indirect infrared heat which make you feel warmer, similar to direct sunlight. Keep in mind too, that unless you have an outdoor rest control for hte boiler or to sped up or slow the circulator, most hydronic air handlers are single stage for heating. So the heat is no different than a furnace. Worse, as you reduce BTU's to the coil, the airflow speed is usually ocnstant, so air temps get cooler. My point being, that a properly designed and installed furnace won;t make it feel dry even if single stage. But yes, oversized furnaces and those with restricted airflow can. Vairble capacity will always make the system more comfortable, but it will cost more. Radiant heat overall is superior, but the installed cost is much, much higher. That's why it fell out of favor. Same reason drywall took over the market and plaster disapeared. ITs' primarily a matter of cost. It's also why stone and brick homes aren't built anymore and concrete homes are the minority.

I started to write up some steps, but if you do not even know how to operate the meter find someone who does. "I know that normally the red means "traveler" " Or switched hot. 120 V is not all that dangerous if you have dry hands and shoes on, but you WILL know if you touch it by accident. If you do not have any understanding of wiring, get someone who does. Ether hire an electrician to figure out what to do, or an experienced friend willing to lend a hand. The most likely thing is that one of the blacks is 'always on' and feeds the others, or when there where two switches was the 'other' switched hot. The red was most likely on the other screw of the switch and is a 'switched hot' feeding a light or receptacle. The problem is that you have to figure out a lot of what is what with the power on. Simple for an experienced person, not so simple if you do not understand wiring. This post was edited by brickeyee on Thu, May 30, 13 at 16:37

That is a good idea but I am not sure I would try it. At the very least I would try a tech support # if there is one and run it by them first. If you are not able to reach any one then I would just hook up the remote box with one of the switched power wires and use the remote. If memory serves correctly I believe it comes with a little bracket to hang the remote on the wall next to the switch. I have also in the past bypassed one of the switches so that the remote always has power to it. I would think if you try this w/o an answer from tech support, the worst that would happen is you would burn up the remote box but I still wouldn't take that chance. BTW, my experience w/ those remotes specifically has been a high rate of failure. Especially if the power to the box is on and you go through a power outage or brownout, it seemed to kill it every time. The ones that were installed but not powered when one of those situations occurred were not harmed at all. Good luck.

What do things look like in the other switch box in the closet you are talking about? Harder to see is what wires enter and exit the box at the light. The simplest set-up for a home owner to deal with will have a single gang box with one non-dimming 3-way switch at each location, and just one (black/white/bare ground) cable and one (black/red/white/bare ground) cable in the box with the switch. The cable that contains the red should go from box to box and makes up the travelers. The black and red ends of this cable should land on the screws on the switch that are the same color as each other (usually not black). The other cable either comes from the panel (the feed in) or goes to the light (the feed out). Put the black from this cable under the unique colored screw (usually black and sometimes called the common or point). Splice together all of the white wires and use the bare ground to ground each other and the switch and the box if it's metal. If you have a different wire arrangement than this, (and there are several that are both different and correct), and if you have only a small amount of experience then you would probably be well served by hiring a pro. I personally can't recall ever seeing or installing a 3-way in a walk-in closet and the black conductor landed on the ground screw makes me think that you will end up hiring someone to sort this out. Good luck.