One strategy for both would be to work with what you have. Around the edge of your pond you could put rocks, not in necklace formation, but thoughtfully arranged to look natural, and interspersed with plants that like the wet area. One way to get ideas on how to arrange the rocks is to go to ponds or waterways where there are rocks naturally and take photos to get an idea of what looks right. Then you can use those for reference. Books on water gardens from your public library may have some nice images that give you ideas as well. There are lots of lovely, non-invasive plants that like wet feet. Some of these are happiest in wettish soil, and some will grow in standing water. You can choose plants for both your wet areas to dress things up without changing the essential character of the area. Two deciduous rhododendrons: rhodora (R. candense) blooms magenta in very early spring followed by blue-green foliage, and swamp azalea (R. viscosum) blooms white to light pink summer and may have nicely colored fall foliage. One evergreen rhodie, R maximum, is moisture tolerant and blooms about now. There are a bunch of selections for flower color, etc that you may be able to find at specialty mailorder nurseries, that might not but most likely will have the same moisture tolerance. Labrador tea (Ledum groenlandicum or Rhododendron groenlandicum) has evergreen foliage and small white spring flowers. High bush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), has flowers, fruit, and red fall foliage Huckleberry (Gaylussacia frondosa) is similar to blueberry. Red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) has white spring flowers, red fruit and fall color, and black chokeberry (A. melanocarpa) has similar characteristics with dark berries. Serviceberry or shadblow (Amelanchier spp.) has early white spring flowers berries the birds love and may have nice fall foliage. Different varieties are from large tree to large shrub sized. Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) make a nice loose evergreen ground-cover with small white flowers and red fruit. Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) has late summer flowers in white to pink, and many selections. Winterberry holly (Ilex vertcillata) is a deciduous holly that has bright red berries in the fall until the birds eat them. They really blaze against the grays and tans of late autumn and early winter. Red osier dogwood, (Cornus sericea or C. stolonifera) has bright red stems, especially if you cut it back each spring. Northern arrowwood viburnum (V. recognitum) has nice panicle of white flowers, followed by berries if there is more than one variety in the vacinity. White cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) is an evergreen that likes wet feet and you can find selections from large shrub to large tree in size. Red maple and Cottonwood will also grow along seasonally wet areas. There are willows ranging from pussy willows to weeping willows that like wet areas. Taxodium distichum, Bald Cypress, is a deciduous conifer that gets huge and is quite striking. Dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) also is a huge conifer that doesn't mind wet feet. Some perennials include turtlehead (Chelone), white to pink late summer flowers; cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) scarlet late summer flowers, marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) yellow early spring blooms, several kinds of gentian, fringed & closed or bottle are two of them, and many kinds of the fibrous rooted iris, like Japanese, Siberian, blue flag. (not Iris pseudacorus, yellow flag iris, which is invasive.) There are several ferns, like cinnamon (Osmunda cinnamomea), Royal (O. regalis) and interrupted (O. claytoniana) that are lovely and like wet feet. A number of grass-like plants like this type of environment as well, including many sedges and reeds. A wet area like this can attract lots of wildlife. We have a seasonal wet area about the size of yours, but which dries up many summers, which has frogs breeding and singing their hearts out now. We have herons and ducks that visit when it's wet, and sedges and reeds that grow there along with some cottonwoods, red maple and pussy willow. I enjoy having it there.

Hmm...we have our own water problem here we're trying to figure out, but yours seems a bit more solvable than mine! It seems that maybe to talk to the city could be a solution, especially since you said that when they put sidewalks in, it has made your problem worse. You may be able to have them regrade the area near the sidewalk so that the water flows onto the street and into drainage pipes properly. If not, then back to your plans. If the water is not backing up into your yard (and nearing your foundation), but rather just pooling in the dirt area shown in your picture, I would think about planting some shrubs that are water loving and would soak up puddles quickly. Maybe something like a dappled willow? I'm still learning a lot about plants, but someone else here who is much more knowledgeable could guide you better I'm sure! Or you could do what's been suggested to me--a dry river bed (but mine would be a 15 foot wide one with really substantial rocks, so not a few hour DIY project!)If you filled that are in with small river rock and then did some plantings, it would be pretty and multipurpose as well. Just a few thoughts. I would call the city first though to see what they say.

It should be fine; I usually cannot tell a plant is producing less blooms when I move them to 2 hrs of sun or so. While more sun equals more blooms, you can simply observe your plants' blooming behaviour in a more shaded location and compare that to a more sunny location. That is what container growing allows you to do. I have seen Macs near my sister's old house that are located in very shaded areas where they get no direct sun and they still produced lots of blooms. Bright shade and dappled sun are good conditions for hydrangeas. Experiment and see if that works for you in OK!!! Should you notice that the leaves in direct contact with the sun turn yellowish (or whiteish) & paperish while the shaded leaves remain green, the plant is getting too much sun. Usually, this will only occur during the summer months (May-August)...

You don't need to wait until another house to make a better raised bed garden. Once you know your mistakes or even if not mistakes, but you know what you want to do better, plan it out and add it to your list of garden to-dos. (I just re-read that you have some HOA but I would guess your next garden plans still fit into what they allow you to do). Some varieties of squash get really large. Even just one plant can cover several tens of feet horizontally or vertically. Check the sizes on all your plants. It also sounds like you might like reading about square foot gardening. It doesn't have to be implemented this year, since you already have your plans set out, but you can consider it for next time. It's also a lot of gardening info to digest so read it and get a grasp on it before changing at a whim. There are alternatives to growing potatoes, though in a bed is OK too. It's not too late for starting them in your area. Asparagus can pretty much remain in that bed forever, so consider that you'll probably never plant anything else there if you don't get rid of the asparagus. For your extra beds as well as different places along your beds and yard, you may also want to have plants which attract pollinators, or plants which may help attract destructive bugs. For that, companion planting might be something to try also.