Fertilizing containerized JM's
Kimberly zone 10 so cal
5 years ago
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Fertilizer Program - Containerized Plants 4 - by Tapla
Comments (1)I have a fertilizer frequency / quantity question and this seems like a good place to ask rather than cluttering up the board: I have tomatoes and peppers in SWC's and am using MG 18:18:21 "Tomato Plant Food", which seems to be a little off the recommended nutrient quantities but it's what I have. Is there any guidance on how much fertilizer I should use and how often. I've just started using it and am diluting to the level suggested on the box of one teaspoon / gallon for indoor plants - which I assume would be similar to containers as they are also closed systems. Is this too strong or too weak? Should I use this quantity every time? Should I increase once the plants start producing? Final simple question - does the fertilizer go in at the top or do I add the fertilized water straight to the reservoir?...See MoreSince I am about to fertilize my containerized tree,
Comments (1)After the fruit start growing, I prefer a liquid fertilizer since I water my pots so frequently. I don't know how to gauge the pelletized fertilizers potency as time goes on with a daily watering schedule. I "feel" like I have better control with a liquid. I use Hasta-Gro 6-12-6 when I see fruit appear on the trees. I'm not sure any brand is better than any others. I have contemplated using a "superbloom" type product, however I've been trying to strike a balance between plant growth and fruit production. At the beginning of the season I mix a slow release 10-10-10 into the soil. It seems reasonable that it is exhausted in about 5-6 weeks when I see the fruit appear. There is nothing very scientific about my methods. I've had a couple of conversations with a guy at the Medina company and this seemed like the best start point from the information he gave me and the information I already had. I may try experimenting a little bit with a couple of trees next year. ~james...See MoreShould I fertilize potted Maples?
Comments (2)Hi, Container plants do in fact need to be fertilized....more often than trees in the ground. Every time you water nutrients are leeched from the potting soil. You could use granular ferts like David. I'd suggest halfing or 1/4 the dosage that's suggested on the directions and apply twice as often. Personally I like to use liquid organic ferts. as I have more control over the amount and frequency of fert. I usually use 1/2 to 1/4 the recommended dosage and feed every other watering. Look for something with NPK numbers with similar proportion: 1-5-5, 2-10-10, 4-10-10, etc. Stop feeding any nitrogen before fall to let the new growth harden off for the winter. If your maples are planted in the lawn make sure to keep typical lawn ferts away from your tree. Lawn ferts have very high nitrogen levels relative to phosperous and potassium with numbers like 30-5-5. This my cause legginess and red leaved and variegated maples to green up. If you like the idea of using ganular over liquid I'd suggest using pelleted organic ferts. Another good thing to add to your fert. regimen is kelp extract. Having trace elements and plant hormones it's good for all your plants, just don't overdo it as most products are highly concentrated. Hope this helps, Layne...See MoreContainerized JMs.Watering Guidelines;Secrets;Dos & Donts Advice Etc !
Comments (3)Stephen, for containers the best time to water is when you get to it :-) Time of day really doesn't make any difference since you should only be watering just the soil/potting medium and not the foliage. I water until it drains freely out of the bottom of the pot. And then I wait to water again until the soil is quite dry for the first few inches. If you are using a freely draining potting soil it is hard to overwater......but it IS possible. In our dry summers, I water every second to third day but all my containerized maples are in pretty big pots. Smaller containers may need more frequent attention but it all depends on your climate and natural rainfall, providing they are in a location that is freely exposed to that. Underwatering can show as spotting or dry edges on the foliage or the drying and browning of the foliage. Overwatering often shows up first as wilting but without the dryness or browning. That can follow. Neither is good but if I were forced to choose, I would go with underwatering - as long as it is not an extended period, most JM's will bounce back from that pretty rapidly. Overwatering leads to root rots and those are much harder to recover from, if at all....See MoreKimberly zone 10 so cal
5 years agochloebud
5 years agoKimberly zone 10 so cal
5 years agohoovb zone 9 sunset 23
5 years agochloebud
5 years agosultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
5 years agohoovb zone 9 sunset 23
5 years agosultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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