what is the ambient temperature of the surrounding room? The assumption is that since it's in your basement, your floor above will be in a heated room - do you heat your basement too? Is your basement entirely subterranean or do you have 3 ft windows in it like mine? If you are entirely subterranean, and your ground temp is OK. you may not have to insulate the floor. Remember that it can be a heat sink and insulating it can actually raise the temp of the interior space. If your configuration is like I described, you need most insullation on the ceiling. The vibrations from your dishwasher won't be a problem anyhow - the dishwasher is above and it's hard to imagine how it would shake the floor of the wine cellar. I simply have the same concrete floor as the rest of the basement. My cellar is for storage, so I just wanted it to be functional. It's about the same size as you describe. Vapor barriers can be something to think about. If you have a large difference in temp between your cellar and the surrounding space, you can get condensation. in an unheated basement, the problem is more likely against the ceiling than the walls, but each place is different. Generally you put the vapor barrier against the warm side, but that's not a brilliant idea for a ceiling, especially if your joists and flooring is wood, which is probably the case. I don't understand your question about paint. What is your concern? Also, remember that greenboard doesn't really insulate all that well. I was worried about flooding in the basement even though we've never had any, so I used wonderboard, or cement board, like you would use for a bathroom. I also have six inch walls so I could put a lot of insullation in, and I built my own door which is also six inches. If you use extruded polystyrene, you get the maximum insulation per square inch. Thermax, which has foil on one or both sides, is slightly better but deteriorates over time and there is some literature about toxins, so rather than worry about any of that, I just used polystyrene. I also built my own wine racks. If you use individual racking, you lose a lot of space to air, but that is the most convenient for looking at your bottles. If you use some kind of bin, Rhone shaped bottles and anything that's slightly weird can be a real pain to stack. So I made shelves. A Bordeaux bottle is 3" diameter, a Burgundy bottle is about 3 1/4", but some of the Rhones are a little larger and things like Turley, or Champagne, or some Beaujolais, are even larger. So I made shelves spaced at 3 1/2 inches, with a few at the bottom that are 4" and the top which is about 5" for anything weird. That was the compromise that allowed me to get the maximum bottles with the least amount of lost space. Bins are better but as I said, a pain. I did one wall with bins and probably wouldn't do that again. For cooling, you have a lot of options. You can do a split system. You can get a Whisperkool or Breezeaire or something similar. But remember, those coolers are simply air conditioners. AC units don't go down below 65 or so because they'll ice up. So the compressors are sized slightly differently and the evaporation coils are sized slightly differently than the wine chiller units. If you got your AC to go to 60 or below, you wouldn't have adequate evaporation. So what to do? Get a larger unit. The smallest room AC is about 3000 BTU, or 5000 BTU, which is far more than you need to get that small room cool. If you trick it, you can get it to cool to the 50s or so and you're in good shape. I just bought a $99 Samsung and the temp is around 59 - 62 degrees F. You can pull the thermostat wire thru the grill, which gets you about 5 degrees right there, and you can tape a small resistor to it that gets you another few degrees, and you spent $99 for a cooling system that works fine. I'm not going to get into an engineering description of cooling systems, but people modify big ACs for meat lockers if they're hunters, and it actually works pretty good for a wine cellar. But a spare in case you burn it out and use the savings for more wine.

Since you are installing a cooling system, it suggests that the temperature without the cooling system is warmer than desired. If this is correct, then the best thing you can do is insulate all the surfaces with the highest R-Value insulation that you can afford. The good news is that the floor will have the coolest temperatures of the six surfaces in your cellar, so if you don't insulate the floor, it will have the least thermal impact on your cellar. By way of example, I used our thermal load worksheet to calculate the thermal load of a 10x10x10 cellar assuming R25 in the walls, R30 in the ceiling. 85F peak temp outside the cellar. and 55F desired temp inside the cellar. If I assume uninsulated concrete in the floor, the thermal load of the cellar is 3005 BTUH. If I assume R25 in the floor, the thermal load declines to 2765 BTUH. If you'd like me to plug in your actual cellar dimensions and/or want to add additional factors (eg ducting, heat source inside the cellar, altitude), let me know and I'll be glad to redo the calculation. I hope this helps!

IMO we need a bit of info . 1st what do you need in way of storage like how many bottles for sure. Why do you need custom , there are 100s of beautiful wine racks to be found that are not custom. Are you having a tasting space in the wine cellar. What is your style ?

In your master: the two doors into the closet are taking up a ton of hanging space. In reality, you will only have 16' total - that's a lot of real estate for two 8' closets. They'd basically be deep reach-ins. If you remove both doors, and change to a single door by the door to your bathroom, you will have 22 feet of hanging space, with space for a dresser and maybe a window on the far wall. You won't have DIRECT access to your closet from the bathroom, but it's right there. If you get rid of the door into the closet from your bathroom, that would give you a lot more options for bathroom layout as well, and maybe you can eliminate the pocket door into the bath. I love pocket doors, but generally prefer swing doors if the door will be used often. Ideally your bed would go on the front wall, but that won't work with the windows. If it's not terrible for your side elevation, consider adding 2 square (high) windows and place your bed centered on that side wall. You can even squeeze your closet a bit narrower if you're worried about bed + nightstands (if you move the door like I suggest above, you can go to a 7 ft wide closet and still have space for hanging on both sides).