Matching engineered hw floor on slab to original solid oak?

5 years ago

Our 1968 multi-level open floor plan split has 2 1/4" red oak throughout, except over the family room which is on grade slab. The original floors were refinished a few years ago and in great shape. Our front entrance and large family room (which are tiled and carpet) are three steps down (and visible) from our kitchen/living room. We want to put wood throughout and we've been advised against installing solid hardwood to match the existing. I've been looking at engineered and found some that have a square edge and look pretty close to site finished - but there are none with narrow plank sizes to match what we have. 3" is the narrowest I can find. I am really struggling with this because it is about 700 square feet and I was really set on having consistent flooring throughout our home.

Should we try to match the color of the engineered to our original oak - maybe install it perpendicular to what we have? Is it better to try to match it closely or contrast - either in color or plank size? Are the steps down enough of a transition? Any help is appreciated!!

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Comments (5)

PRO
Sativa McGee Designs
5 years ago
You cannot install solid hardwood directly on slab.

Regarding engineered, I would recommend contrasting it as you will not find anything that looks close enough. Look for a 5" wide plank in a mid-range tone or dark brown.
calidesign
5 years ago
If the rooms are separated by steps, I would look for an engineered wood that closely matches your hardwood in color. I think that is more important than plank size to having cohesive spaces. Get some samples to lay out and look at so you can step back and view the differences in your space.
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Tiles are hard. Done. We know this. Wood is more forgiving but still rigid. Cork is very forgiving BUT it doesn't do very well over in-floor radiant heat (the cork is fine....but it can block as much as 90% of the heat moving through it...makes for a cold space). Rubber may or may not be allowed over in-floor radiant heat. Some of the low end rubber will give off a heavier smell when the heat is on. I'm sorry to say but the best option for in-floor radiant = tile or carpet. Since this is a kitchen, carpet is out. I've had enough people use cork over in-floor radiant and most of them come back saying the cork is lovely....but the space gets too cold. The heat doesn't move through the cork enough to heat the room. Feet are NICE and warm...shoulders get chilly. And a traditional cork floor in a natural finish will do rather well with dogs. It's hard to see scratches on natural (oak coloured) cork. Very hard....The issue for me would be the cork blocking all that lovely heat your floor is producing. And there are many floors that I would recommend for comfort....but the in-floor radiant heat is going to get in the way! Sigh. This is why I have a bit of a hate-on for in-floor radiant. It reduces the options. And when it comes to body pain/foot pain, the wider the range of options, the better chance you have to live a comfortable life free of pain (which cork is REALLY good at). Leather, seen below is a traditional colour that looks very handsome. Silver Birch (above) is another cork floor that looks like bamboo/narrow strip hardwood. Either of these patterns will work in a home where there is someone who isn't sold on the look of cork.
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Have lived with hardwood floors in my kitchen since 2005 -- a renovation to extend from family room. We left the original ceramic tile in the laundry, and replaced the foyer with marble, and the 3/4 bath with marble like limestone. I have no regrets. Yes, the hardwood has coupled in unexplainable places, but we don't trip on it. Yes, the light has altered the hardwood color, but we have rugs. And we can refinish to sell or transfer. Engineered wood cannot be refinished. And to remove it and replace is more expensive than installing hardwoods. If you are a flipper, or budget is the determining factor then yes, EH. But if you plan to live in your home long enough to refinish the hardwood, or want to sell your home in move-in condition -- choose hardwood. It's not that much more -- what costs more is the number of poly finishes -- we chose three -- the minimum -- five is ideal.
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Ok so it sounds like you have some good, solid professional advice - it’s always nice when you don’t get differing assessments and each pro says the same thing, usually makes it easier. That said, only you can know whether the perpendicular boards would bother you, but I would ask a different question: will it bother you LESS than the existing transitions and height differences? My guess is yes, and I think that once everything is the same level and finish you won’t even notice those boards. We have one that transitions to the tile in the entry from the living room and I never really notice it - and I can be rather type A about those kinds of things lol. I think your freak outs are normal, especially since you are under pressure making a lot of time sensitive decisions while trying to plan a move. Not the best of circumstances for being able to think clearly and not freak out. That said, there are always surprises to be found and things that weren’t noticed in the tours you did before deciding to buy, it’s inevitable once you spend more time in a house that these things pop up - even in GREAT houses. It probably is a great house, and if this is the only “surprise” you discover it truly is a gem and you should feel happy/lucky that it’s very minor and easily fixable. Take a deep breath and hire one of those guys to fix the floors and move on to the 1.3 billion other things on your list to do before you move :-)
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You are looking for a company that manufactures the same species/finish in both engineered AND solid. These are NOT found using the big box stores nor the mass producers such as Bruce, etc. You are on the Eastern Seaboard. Excellent! That's where ALL the great mills are. You need to google/search for hardwood floor mill. You will come up with thousands of options. Go ahead and start looking at the one's closest to you. They will offer samples (either free or for small money) as well as a list of their retailers. Because you are looking at a match (ie. NO ONE can tell the difference but you!) you are going to pay more for that quality. I would expect $9-$12/sf depending on the cut, species, thickness and finish/stain. I know how to find them in Canada...it will be up to you to find it in/around PA. Oak and Broad is a company that produces beautiful wood floors in Georgia...they also post on Houzz (stunning floors...absolutely stunning). Our Story | A family-owned hardwood flooring company | Oak & Broad (oakandbroad.com) Follow the link to see what you are LOOKING for. Once you know how to find a quality mill, you can then branch out on your own.
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PRO
Oak & Broad
5 years ago
Allison Devlin Mitchell , we have an easy answer for you on this one. Our American made Engineered is available unfinished. You can glue it down to the slab and then finish to match on site :-)
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PRO
HALLETT & Co.
5 years ago
I would use the 3” you found but install it perpendicular to the rest of the house. With it being a different floor level and direction people won’t notice the change from 2 1/4” to 3”.
SJ McCarthy
5 years ago
Running the 3" hardwood perpendicular to the rest of the house AND the separation with STEPS will help with the slight variation in plank width. The eye will be fooled into thinking the floors are the same (assuming you can use the same species and the same finish as your original hardwoods).

I know engineered floors can be glued down, but the age of your slab worries me. We've had a few people who have glued down to an old slab only to have the ground moisture come up and ruin their floors. I would be cautious and work with the floating install + vapour barrier.

Just make sure the flooring company does PLENTY of subfloor prep. These old slabs that are covered in carpet are KNOWN to be "pretty rough". Be prepared to pay a premium ($2-$4/sf for concrete preparation) for the prep. And be prepared for a "general quote" that shows a range such as I've listed here. The installer won't know the 'real price' until that carpet has been removed. Be OK with that. It is normal. Don't let them "low ball" you to get the job. Make sure the company/installer clearly sets out the range for subfloor preparation. It is the thing that will point out the most "professional" of your quotes.

Matching engineered hw floor on slab to original solid oak?

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Sativa McGee Designs

calidesign

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