Well, if you plan to do anything at all with the door, you might as well think about changing it to swing INWARD. I have a pet peeve with bathroom doors that swing out into the hall way. Or other rooms. With this one change, it might make a difference with the door staying closed most of the time. And, you could find a little mechanism for the door hinge which would close the door. I have some of those hinges on my kitchen cabinet doors, which are not as heavy or big as regular door hinges, but that is what they do. And I love them. It is also possible to get good quality bifold doors, and I've purchased several of the Pinecroft doors from Home Depot. Online, since they are not in my local store. They also sell the Feather River Doors in bifold configurations, with different kinds of tops and bottoms. Your bathroom is really pretty, love that window and the sink too. Don't think you'd gain much advantage by moving the door and sacrificing your linen closet.You'd be opening up a whole can of worms.

I'm not a pro, but I've been doing a lot of research about this exact issue in the last month, in preparation for a DIY project. (I was a professional woodworker before retiring, just not a flooring person). I just want to reiterate one thing about Luaun and to suggest what I think is the reason for the failure. First, luaun is plywood, and, yes, it is commonly used, but it's a poor choice. It's smooth, but has many voids, which can compress after the vinyl is installed, with results similar to what you already have. Do not let them use luaun. The birch plywood mentioned above is good. Multiply is one brand name that is carried by my local Home Depot. It's 5mm thick. As for what happened, I don't think what you are seeing is the underlayment having moved or buckled. Rather, I think they simply layed the vinyl over an uneven underlayment. Sometimes it can take a while for the vinyl to "sink" into the gaps, so you start out with a floor that looks fine. But as the months go by, things begin to get uglier. The only reason I point this out is to suggest that you be skeptical of any claims they might make about your house settling or "unknowns" or whatever. Now, if you had walls built below this floor or something in the meantime...and they pounded them in, it's possible this could lift a few joists, causing something like this, but, setting that aside, your 30 year old house probably did most of it's major settling a few years back. Essentially, I mean to say that they did it wrong, period. There aren't any "unknowns" here that they can summon up to garner your sympathy. As for the appropriateness of installing Multi-ply (not luaun) directly over your existing vinyl, I'm not qualified to judge. My suggestion would be to call another flooring expert in to have a look. Tell him/her in advance the reason for the visit and offer to pay for an hour of time. The frustrating part about this stuff is that, even if the folks who installed this are willing to work with you, they may not be qualified to fix their own work. I wish you well.

thank you jellytoast, and mil workman for your reply He had good references and did work for some people at our church we go to. He was very expensive. I believed he knew what he was doing until I started to see things or hear what he was going to do. I also went to the Hardie website previous and realized he was not follow instructions. He is actually a very nice person but social has nothing to do with it anymore, now this is business and a lot of my money. I paid him a large deposit for supplies already and he has the tile in his possession that I also already paid for. But i went to the site you said John Bridge. They told me to stop the job. I did . I confronted him we discussed it. He agreed to remove it and absorb the loss. After I explained my situation and the condition of floor they told me about 'deflection' and now that is where I am. Job is on hold I am looking for a carpenter to look at the joists underneath. Plus I am scraping off the motor of the Hardi that was left behind. I am at a standstill right now. Dont know what is coming or what to expect. NOt one installer even mentioned anything about weight or joists or deflection of any kind. So i think if it wasn't this one it would have been any of the others i guess. Any ideas greatly appreciated.

You are looking for "deflection ratings". It is a chart you can find on line. That is the EASY part. The HARD PART is MEASURING the joist distances. Usually you have to get underneath the floor and view/measure the "joists on centre". That means to place your measuring tape on the CENTRE of floor joist "A" and then measure to the next joist "B" to the MIDDLE/centre of the joist. You will do this for as many joists as you can. Write them down. Now go upstairs and find the Deflection Rating chart and compare your measurements to the chart's measurements. And to be clear, 1/2" plywood is RARELY good enough to tile over top of. You would have to have joists every foot. This means you will need to ADD more plywood just to reach the rigidity/deflection rating for the TILE you want to use. Which means you have to KNOW which tile (or at least the SIZE you want to use) before you add thickness. And cement board does NOT add rigidity. It is simply a bonding substrate for tile. It is also used to "add floor height" when needed. It is NEVER used to "stop plywood from bouncing". As Sophie so clearly points out, this is a "rip out and redo the whole thing" type of reno...if you insist on tile. If you go with sheet products (as your home has been designed to receive) you will be fine with a layer of 1/4" plywood and then new sheet product. A traditional subfloor assembly usually achieves: 2 layers with a minimum thickness of 3/4". This is VERY common. Right now you are "missing" 1/4". Which is why we know your home was designed for sheet vinyl and carpet. They are the ONLY products that accept 1/2" plywood subfloors. And the 1/2" plywood subfloors can only accept sheet vinyl and carpet. It really is a dead end street. To add in tile, you need to remove the kitchen. Add the RIGHT amount of thickness of plywood (which is why you need to assess the "joist on centre" measurements) of the ENTIRE SPACE. Shim the cabinets another 1/2" and then reinstall cabs. Tiles are then installed after the cabinets/counters have been put back....remember to tile in the areas under the appliances. Now you get the joy of discovering that the kitchen floor is MORE THAN AN INCH higher (possibly 2") than it was before you started (tile adds as much as 3/4" after installation). That means your TRANSITIONS to other floors is going to be a MESS. Some of these transitions could be HUGE. It could be 2" or more "step down" to the next floor. Now we have to look at either removing ALL flooring and adding 3/4" plywood throughout OR living with some of the nastiest, toe-stubbing transitions, in the business. Either way it is going to hurt. Please reconsider a handsome sheet vinyl in the look you want. You can spend as much as $10/sf (that means almost $100/square yard) on a sheet vinyl and STILL be cheaper than tile.