Since you're in Cumming Ga, I thought you might want to check out one of the better landscaping companies in the State, who just happens to be right down the road from you. I'm not affiliated, but just wanted to pass them on as they do excellent work. As for your soil, it is typical of GA soil in that it has a very low exchange capacity. This means that it won't hold nutrients very well, which can be offset by using slow-release fertilizers, or by improving the soil with the addition of compost. My soil supplier is on the south side of Atlanta, but I'm sure SEL could recommend someone local if you're doing the work yourself. Also, it's been a closely held belief for years that Centipede doesn't perform well in a pH above 6 (I shared this opinion for 15 years). Texas A&M shed some new light on this a few years back with a mass-cultivar study in which they grew every cultivar of Centipede at a pH of 8.0. The trick was that they supplemented with chelated iron, otherwise the grass would have lost all color. The study proved that the issue was that iron tends to be less exchangeable as the pH increases, this leads to chlorosis (iron loss), which Centipede is very sensitive to. However the root systems in the higher pH levels grew much deeper. The lessen there was that with a pH that's just slightly acidic, like yours, you can actually have a more drought tolerant stand, but you will need to supplement with iron during the growing season (part of a normal centipede program anyway). The ideal pH recommended by most extension agents (Texas A&M included) is still 5 to 6, but again that is based on iron uptake. Here is a link that might be useful: South Eastern Landscape Contractors

Hello, bobomcdo! I sure hope you can share the solution to your dilemma. We just submitted an offer on a house with metal kitchen cabinets! I don't want to get rid of them! They are cool! AND there are many of them. All the bottom / base cabinets have cool drawers or built-in drawers behind the doors! Special dividing sections. Some upper cabinets have adjustable shelving. One upper cabinet has built in flour and sugar sifters that slide out. Also, there is a new stainless steel 5-burner gas stove installed between the cabinets that fits perfectly! I normally would remove a free-standing, build up for a cooktop and build for built-in ovens separately, but this one has changed my mind. Our issue? The same as you described! It looks like there is no way to replace the countertops separately. They are really ugly, but additionally, the area behind the sink is damaged and must be replaced. Our countertops look identical to yours, to include built-in section of stainless on either side of the stovetop, the stainless being flush with the formica. We also have the metal all around the countertops! And where the counter meets the wall...and at the top of the formica backspash. The only difference is that the formica backspash extends all the way up! to the bottom of the upper cabinets. What did you end up doing? I so hope you reply. It is difficult to search this specific type of issue! I've tried!

I agree with John...if the cedar rots, you'll have a big problem. Get rid of the old decking. A 24" span is a stretch for 1x6 ipe, but fine for 5/4. You might even be able to span the 24" with diagonal 5/4x6. I've done it steve

I actually hired mad city windows and bath to do it and they used green board the first time and because they didn't properly brace the panels they had to rip it all out and replace it. The sceond time they used plywood.You can see the video here. https://youtu.be/bnmK1dmQ_9I If you are a professional please leave a comment on the craftsmanship.