Can I save this living room or do I need to return the sofas?
Jane O’Brien
5 years ago
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Is my wisteria dead, can I save it, or do I need to start over?
Comments (1)Winter 2013/2014 was a brutal winter for Asian wisterias! Neither my Japanese or Chinese wisteria 'trees' bloomed last spring and the Chinese one, which usually has a smaller secondary summer bloom, produced only a couple of wimpy summer blooms. This winter has also been hard so I fear there may be no bloom this spring either - although it's to soon to tell yet.... Mine are much younger plants that yours. I've never had any dieback of the woody branches like you are describing - I wonder if that is due to the age more than winter kill...? They are known to be able to live for hundreds of years so I think it's likely to be able to survive a reasonable amount of damage! If the graft union a visible bulge? i.e can you tell for sure that some of the new growth came from below the graft? If so, I'd definitely get rid of the stems arising from below the union. The concrete patio would certainly be a limiting factor in trying to get rid of the vine if it is dead. I'd be inclined to wait to see what is alive or clearly dead this spring. Anything clearly dead I'd cut off as low down as possible. Anything living but of dubious origin in relation to the graft, I'd also remove. If that means the vast majority of it is gone, then I'd remove the rest as best I could - and probably replant with something else entirely - one or more of the vigorous and hardy clematis perhaps. If I still wanted a wisteria, I'd plant one (on a very sturdy upright support) as a free-standing tree. It is much easier to prune and control them when they are kept short in a tree form than it is to climb up on a pergola to prune IMO! I'll keep my fingers crossed for the survival of both our wisterias....:-)...See MoreHelp I want to update my living room but I do not know what to do.
Comments (13)What's in the armoire? I would place it opposite the fireplace to serve as a visual counter balance to it. Then put your TV on the former armoire wall, above a credenza 25% wider than the TV. Hang large art 5" above the mantel. Use your sofa table behind the sofa without the buffet lamps (do you have a formal dining room for them?) Remove the bergere chair as it doesn't fit the casual feeling of the other seating pieces. Do you have a foyer where it would be pretty? Put the large armchair in its place. Try a new, more casual feeling rug and drapes. Replace all the other art and photos with new art. Hang pieces centered 5' above the floor or 5" above furniture. Upgrade all the lamps and add a nice ceiling fixture in place of the fan. If you like the idea of a mirror above the mantle, you could install a pretty chandelier to be reflected in it....See MoreI need help with this off centered living room and info on sofas
Comments (1)https://www.robertallendesign.com/custom-sofas-sectionals...See MoreWhat do I need to do to save my Ficus Allii??
Comments (10)The physical make-up of your soil can be critical to your plants ability to achieve as much of its genetic potential as possible. Advising what soil to use is not easy, given the amount of consideration the question deserves. You should use a soil you can water at will to beyond the point of complete saturation, so you're flushing the soil of accumulating salts each time you water; this, w/o you needing to be concerned the soil will remain soggy so long it limits root function and/or wrecks root health. To a very large degree, your soil choice + the size of the root mass after root pruning dictates what size pot you use can or should be. Some things I wrote that should be helpful in answering your questions: What is a good soil? From my perspective, an appropriate medium is a medium that allows us to water to beyond the point of saturation at will, so we're flushing the dissolved solids (salts) that are present in tapwater and fertilizer solutions. These dissolved solids are left behind and accumulate in soils whenever we're forced to water in sips, which is commonly employed as a strategy in order to avoid the sogginess that limits root function and wrecks root health. It's important to realize that a healthy plant is not possible w/o a healthy root system. If you have established goals that include healthy and attractive plants, it's critical that you have a plan to avoid the limitations imposed by over-watering and an accumulation of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution. Not every grower fully understands the dilemmic issues associated with inappropriate soils that force the plant to pay a vitality tax resultant of an unhealthy amount of water being retained for extended periods when we water correctly – which is to say, when we flush the soil to limit salt build-up. On one hand, we have the potential for over-watering, and when we act to avoid it by offering dribs and drabs of water here and there, we have high salt levels to deal with. It's easy to see how we all might benefit from use of a soil that allows us to water so we're flushing away excess salts without limiting our plant's vitality via waterlogged soils. What size pot? How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work. Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist potting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue. Al...See MoreJane O’Brien
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