No help with the doors. But did you clean the dryer from inside the entire way through to the outside. That must be done periodically or it's a huge fire hazard.

There is available a flat vent pipe just for that type of application. I had one in my previous house.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-24-in-to-45-in-Adjustable-Periscope-Dryer-Vent/3203041

There it is, they come in different shapes and configurations.

Or a vent box, which is recessed between the studs. That's what we have.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-11-75-in-x-20-125-in-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Box/3203053

Do you wall space for a barn door? You can do a single or double.

What would I do? Skip the door, and keep the faster drying times of a vented dryer, or switch to a stacked set of smaller W/D machines so that the door can be installed without issues.

The round to flat to round "periscope" doesn't look like a good idea. With the dryer output blowing full force at a flat surface just a few inches away from the opening, you can be sure lint will accumulate (a dangerous situation).

Similarly, the in-wall "vent box" is fine, so long as there's a code-compliant metal dryer duct that's been run inside the wall and to an exit outside the house. You can't just blow dryer exhaust into a wall cavity, nor would you want to.

Satine, any chance of locating the dryer somewhere else?

Just where is the track for the doors attached? If in the middle of the door way, can they be moved to the front edge and then still close?

Moni

The situation is what it is. I'd leave the door off and be done with it.

Can you add a frame or additional molding around the door opening, creating a few more inches where he could attach the door?

If it were me...I would build up the door frame [with a sturdy wood...Ash...maybe] to meet the necessary extra inches that are needed and remount the door to the built up frame. Your repair man should know what I'm talking about. It's an old trick of the trade...sorta. :-) Of course...if you need more than a few extra inches...this suggestion wouldn't be that advisable.

Good luck!

Sorry dedtired. You and I think alike. I didn't mean to step on your toes.

Where is the closet located? Is it in a space that the w/d showing would be unacceptable? Back in 1985 I bought my first home, a townhouse. The space for the washer and dryer was in the kitchen, behind a bi-fold door. I bought a Maytag unit which was a full sized washer with a full sized dryer-as one unit. It had electronic controls and I was pleased to buy it. Unfortunately when installed the door would not close, so I had to leave it off. My dad, who had been helping me renovate the place was none to pleased about the look and told me so. I figured since it was in the kitchen and the set was attractive-in my opinion-I was not going to stew about it. It worked for me. Can you get away with that?

Thank you for ll the responses. The washer/dryer are located in a hallway which is visible from the living room and from the guest room. Leaving it off isn't an option. My guy did tell me he will brainstorm and find a way (hopefully) to place some kind of door. I can live with it for a while since I'll be away next week. He did talk about adding some extra framework to perhaps gain an inch or two so maybe he'll end up doing that. Thanks again for all the good ideas.

I would frame the opening to the required depth and install new bi-fold doors.

Contact a finish carpenter.

I would turn them in to french doors and you may even be able to use the same doors which may even be more functional . Here’s a “how to” video of what I’m talking about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCEg8mQSIBk

What’s behind the w\d? Anyway to push into that wall, like a built- in ref?

satine - I don't have an answer to your particular question, but I would start measuring current washer/dryers available now - depending on when yours were built/installed you might find that the newer ones (even the compact units) are too big. Just make sure you measure because at first glance they don't appear to be any bigger. Our first washer/dryer fit without problem. The second units we had to buy Bosch sub-compact - they were 22 X 22 - and just fit. Now the Bosch sub-compact comes in 3 sizes - all of which are too big. I think that due to the mold issue on the front door they redesigned the make. For 1/2 the price we could have purchased full size Bosch units. I didn't want to spend the money on Bosch but we had no choice. Now we have none. At least in the U.S. you might have more options. They know they have people with space issues over a barrel. I have gone to the laundromat and met a contractor there who lives in a condo and he has this exact problem - the newer units are just too big - even the small ones.

I did wonder if you could expand the area where the washer and dryer are located. I have seen various styles where some are broader side to side but narrow front to back. I know it is a little late since most of the repairs have been done but if the door must be reframed it could be a possibility.

I am concerned that you mention paint peeling. If it is caused by the moisture that is one thing but if it is caused by heat that is a real problem. If you keep the door to the closet closed after and during use you might want to consider vents or a slatted door. It will help dissipate both heat and moisture when the door is not open.

I'm not sure if this will work for you but we installed full access bi-fold doors in our laundry room. We had the door frame built out to give us an extra inch or two and these doors open wide and stack outside the doorway allowing full access.

http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1601-full-access-bi-fold-door-hardware

Maire, that's how it's done. A simple build out by a carpenter is all it takes to make it work.

It's a simple solution that doesn't require knocking out walls or expanding the laundry room.

Contact a carpenter!

Even though a build out would resolve the depth issue, I would still consider changing the doors from bifold to swing out like the video I posted above.

Sure, add say a 1"X2" frame around the door opening. This will add 3/4" depth to closet. (Or add 2X2" frame - adds 1 1/2" to closet depth.

Thanks all for the ideas. I'll be seeing my all around handyman in a week or so and I have no doubt he'll be able to resolve the issue. I think adding to the frame will most likely work.