Oooh, that's a great Aeonium. Many people, including me, would kill for such a nice, large specimen as that! And it does not look too poorly from here, with the exception of a couple things. Summertime is the time Aeoniums go dormant and most of the time want a major cutback on water, or to go basically dry with just a sip of water periodically. Summer is also when the rosettes ball up like yours are, which could be perceived as them sort of shriveling up. That is completely normal for this time of year. Full sun could be fine. I happen to do only part-sun with mine over the summer, to try to encourage them to wake up faster when fall comes and temperatures start dropping a bit. My conditions aren't ideal, so my plants are potted and I move them around in an attempt to please them at various times of the year. What isn't normal are the few branches that have flopped over. Where the branches have flopped, are they kind of mushy? If so, they're rotting, and you should remove them/perhaps cut them back to the main stem, to where the tissue is green and healthy inside. Also feel around the base of the stem for any mushy, rotting areas, and I would pray the root system is healthy and there isn't any rot going on below the soil line. My Aeoniums generally start waking up in the fall, and they do most of their growing through the winter and spring, until hot weather hits. Aeoniums are characterized as winter growers, which just means they don't like the heat much. If your summer doesn't get very hot, they can decide to not completely ball up and go entirely dormant, but instead only partially ball up and keep slowly growing through the season -- most of my Aeoniums went completely dormant this summer, but in the exact same conditions a couple of them didn't, and that's just a fluke. Aside from the few problem stems you have going there, I would hope it's one healthy plant. Just make sure you remove what has rotted so that the rot cannot spread. Don't let the balled-up look of the rosettes scare you. The leaves will open up and really start growing soon. Out of curiosity, I'd like to see a closer view of the plant. It has a look to it a bit like Aeonium balsamiferum, which I quite like. This post was edited by teatree on Sun, Aug 4, 13 at 19:55

I would agree with "let them get red" as a rule. They might top out at bright orange, yellow, pale green or purple, but odds are red is your target. If you had said, "I bought the seeds off the interwebs and two of them look like jalapenos and these two don't" i'd say whoever sold them to you got theyselves a little bit of a hybridization problem. Seeing as how you bought them from a nursery, it depends on if they grew them on site from seeds or bought them as seedlings. If they planted seeds and sold the seedlings, hybridization is still a possibility. If they bought them as seedlings for resale, i'd wager on mislabeling (if someone is selling wholesale peppers, i'd assume they're going to either make damn sure they're selling purebreds or go out of business). Either whichever... enjoy them. Life is an adventure. :)

Hi Rachel, I agree with previous poster, and would add that watering every 3 days is too frequently for succulents in almost any conditions. Exceptions might be plants in grit (non-soil media akin to cat litter); plants that are very pot-bound, or plants in terra cotta that are in direct sun and high temperatures all day. For a plant in soil like yours, a once-weekly soaking is more than adequate. I agree that a soil change would be helpful. A 1:1 or 2:1 mix of potting soil and perlite will help it to drain and dry out faster, which succulents prefer. A south-facing window is preferable in most climates, but acclimate them First, and don't leave them in direct sun until the roots have had time to colonize the new soil- at least several weeks. Depending on where you live, east or west windows will also work. North-facing windows rarely, if ever, provide enough light for succulents. The smaller plant appears to be a Sedum, burro's tail, I think. On my small screen, it looks like all but the new leaves are a bit shriveled. They should be fat and turgid like grapes. I suspect the roots have died back from too much water/inadequate drainage. When you pull the plants to change the growing medium, examine the roots. They shoukd be white, firm, and profuse. I think you'll find small roots just around the stem, and many of those will be mushy, grey, or shriveled. If they appear that way, it will confirm the over-watering/poor soil hypothesis. Post some photos and someone can let you know if you're unsure. So, new soil, less frequent watering, a pruning or re-start for the Echeveria, plenty of light, and minimal fertilizer shoukd GI e you healthier plants in a couple of months.

Still completely stumped on this. I can't find any kind of photo of a plant that looks anything like this with a matching description. In order to put an ID tab in this plant I need to present pics and text to my boss for the greenhouse.