That was a helpful video nhb22 - I think the big question is can this space support light or dark cabinets? If you go light you can do COLOR on the wall. If you do dark cabinets you will want to go LIGHT on the wall (white /no color). If you did seasalt in LR and are happy with it it may need the kitchen area in a light white to balance that / make it all make sense and not be an overload of bluish green colors that are close in tones. I would argue that that dark gray cabinet is NOT a good family member to sea salt walls right near it. Why not stay on the sea salt color flute and go with something like SW Retreat or Pewter Green for the kitchen cabinets? Then you are staying within a family of colors. Origami white on the walls AND the uppers and soffit in the kitchen would compliment the Retreat / Pewter Green color and make the kitchen not too heavy and dark. Check it out.

How do I know how it will look on the wall as far as what the color it portrays? Is there a value for that? Excellent question. The hue/value/chroma color notation is a fact. That's why it's called factual color. It's derived from following a set of standards to measure the color. It's repeatable. You and I could both follow the same process and measure a swatch of the same color in different locations and get very similar results. How a color actually looks in a space is actual color. Everyone guesses about how a paint color is going to show up in a specific space. There's no such thing as fool proof paint colors. Which is why everyone has to follow some kind of a process to test color in context of the space, inherent lighting, and contents of the room We can use use factual color notations - hue/value/chroma/LRV - as a framework to anticipate how it will actually show up in a space. For example, we use the notations to make sure the paint color relates to some important element. Like a rug or even the floor. Because if there's a level of relationship between the paint color and one or more elements, then odds are excellent the paint color is going to be perfect. We also use each channel of hue, value and chroma to find paint colors with specific characteristics. For example, based on your comment that you're looking for a color similar to Swirling Smoke only lighter I'd suggest you take a look at: Silent Smoke PPG1025-2 Dogwood Blossom PPG14-24 Paraffin PPG-14.31 I don't want to say "undertones" because from what I read that word is overused and cringey. Is that hue? The problem with "undertones" is everyone is making it up as they go. Undertones are just someone's subjective opinion about what a color actually looks like - according to their color acuity - in whatever context and light source they happen to be lookin' at it. Which is why you'll find dramatically different opinions on the internet about what a paint color actually looks like. Whereas hue family is, as mentioned, a factual, measurable attribute of color.

Any opinions on white ceilings vs same wall colored ceilings? We also have 10’ ceilings everywhere. Functionally: If you use top grade (not "ceiling" paint) white paint on the ceilings, you can change wall color a couple times within 5-8 years without having to paint the ceiling too. If you do walls/ceiling same color, you paint the ceiling every time you change wall color. Last, white reflects more light. Aesthetically: There isn't a right answer. It comes down to personal preference. I myself prefer a white ceiling above my head. YMMV.

I loved Sea Salt. alas alas, it looked baby blue in my north/facing LR. Rainwashed looks like a bluish/aqua in my child’s north-facing bathroom SW Frostwork looks greenish-gray in that same LR with an Alabaster ceiling. My point is that you have to put up samples and see what your lighting does. also, know your child: does her taste change frequently? Mine knows her own mind and preferences. i did not hesitate to paint her room the color that she wanted.