Looking at the third pic I can tell you right away that the stem in the middle is a goner. The one on the right looks healthiest and the one on the left....negligible. The first thing you'll want to do is take the plant out of the pot and knock as much dirt off of the root ball as possible. Toss out that black cane and examine the roots of the other two. Healthy dracaena roots are usually yellow or orange-ish. If any are dead or mushy, trim them off. Hopefully there should be a decent amount of rootage left. Judging from the pic, it looks like the plant might be in a pot that is a bit too large. I would them re-pot the remaining plant in fresh soil in a pot at least one size smaller. Dracaena like to be a bit pot-bound. This also helps discourage an anaerobic zone which leads to root rot. If you're using store bought potting soil I would also amend it with some perlite and/or horticultural charcoal. Next, place the plant in an area that will receive at least medium light. Nothing too bright, at least until it recovers and never direct sun. When watering, wait until at least the top two inches or so of soil are dry. Also check deeper down to make sure it's not sopping wet around the root ball (shouldn't be if you're using a well-draining mix). Let us know how it goes and if you have any further questions.

Where do you live? What kind of grass do you have and want to have? What is your watering regimen? How often do you water and for how long? Weed-n-feed products are hard to apply correctly, so it's best to avoid them. It is much better to use a fertilizer to fertilizer and a herbicide to kill weeds. There is a stronger product called Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. The bottle looks like this... There is another product called Weed-B-Gone for Crabgrass Control. That bottle looks like this... Since you know you have crabgrass I would try the orange bottle first and see which of the other weeds it kills before buying them both. Remember that all you're doing with these herbicides is wetting the leaves of the plant. You're not drenching the soil. I suspect you're not watering properly, but you might have other issues. If you could answer the questions up top the other issues could be addressed. Here are some basic 'best practices' for lawn care. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

@joe - that was a fun thread to read, thanks for sharing. JC in that thread chose to start this healing process in mid-July but I didn't find the reason of his timing. Given the condition of the grass (mostly like the first pic in thread), and where I am (east coast, Toronto), with weather right now being around 40F at night and 70F during the day, with showers throughout the week, which month should I be starting the same process JC took? @mishmosh - ok cool this makes me at ease, I have the core aeration and fertilizers scheduled within the next 4 weeks @shivece - just signed up to a lawn service, surprisingly not nearly as expensive as I thought given other type of contractors cost thousands even for small jobs in GTA. The challenge now is coordinating my own efforts with the lawn service because I found out that even the best lawn services in our area does things in batch, not tailored towards specific houses. They schedule things based on optimal business operations. @charpell - makes sense, what's interesting is that no one in the neighborhood seem to water their lawn where I live, I never saw a sprinkler or manual watering, just cutting and fertilizers. Last year was the first time we were in the house so I thought it was just me not knowing what people normally do around here to keep the lawn healthy but this year I observed enough to see I was the oddball for sure

For anyone who would like an update, so far the kitchen has been gutted. :) We decided that would work best with everything we wanted to do in there. I am keeping the wormy chestnut peninsula. This has become quite a remodel and it's going on mountain time, as expected. We have a super nice builder though and very good at what he does. The kitchen plans are complete now and they should start building that room soon. We decided to replace the oven hood with a decorative one also. The one in there is so big and sounds like a plane taking off. There was a very small laundry room to the right of the front entryway with a powder room in between. It's not far from the kitchen at all, so I decided to move the laundry room and to gut the current one. I didn't like the location at the front entry and it was only five feet across -- tight fit when the doors to the machine were open. Plus, the machines were right where the door opens. I didn't love the style either. It is now going to be a mudroom with cabinets also for extra pantry storage. The new laundry will be downstairs, will be bigger, will have a side by side washer/dryer set up, and will have a dog bathing station. ^^^^ gutted kitchen