In my area in southeastern NY-CT most cherries rotted this year even when protected with proper, rain proof fungicide because of cool wet weather at the worst time besides when they are almost ripe. Cherries are a crap shoot here and you can only expect crops about every other year- and that with netting from birds. Netting should be placed on cherry tree just as they start to show red and removed after harvest. The netting used by previous owner, unfortunately, may also have been used for protection against coons and squirrels. Squirrels will often remove unripe peaches and pears and sometimes even apples. If they haven't removed fruit before they also like it ripe, but often don't remove as much as quickly at that point unless there are hordes. If trees need spray the fruit will likely inform you rather quickly. It is already too late to protect it as the essential 2 sprays must be done at petal fall and again 10-14 days later. With fruit you often don't get to use a reactive strategy. I expect you will have to spray cherries and peaches to get fruit with both the right insecticide and fungicide. For stonefruit the fungicide needs to be applied about a month before harvest and, if weather is wet, maybe again 14 days later. I manage scores of orchards in Westchester, Greenwich, Stamford, etc and have a pretty good handle, after doing this for many years, on what pests you are likely to encounter. If you use netting, I suggest you stay away from the black monofilament type and use a woven 2 strand type instead. A decent sized tree requires at least a 30X30 foot piece. The woven does less damage to the tree (doesn't tangle as much) and is much easier to install and remove. It can last for up to 10 years if you remove promptly and do some repair. It is hard to get more than one season with monofilament unless you are very patient when removing it from the trees. Here is a link that might be useful: source for woven netting

Quirky, planting too densely is a bad idea. Planting is the initial seeding effort. Without overseeding, how else will he thicken a fescue lawn? Overseeding all cool season types is always recommended. sjv3955, it's a good idea to overseed this second year. After that, every 2-3 years is recommended. Don't add any topsoil though. 1. Get a soil test. Call your nearest county extension service for a test kit and sampling instructions. It will likely take two weeks for results. If you need to apply sulfur, lime, or any other amendment per test recommendation (that is not applied in Step 5), you can do it after seeding if you don't get results back in time. 2. Mow to within one and half inches, but mow it down gradually. Cut off 1/3 the grass blade and another 1/3 three or four days later. Repeat if necessary. 3. Rake it up 4. Core aerate or cheat and apply Nitron A-35 to relieve soil compaction. 5. Fertilize 6. Sow seeds (slit seeding is best) 7. Topdress 1/4 inch layer compost, peat moss, or clean straw (weed-free). (One cu. yard/1000 sqft). 8. water 15-20 minutes twice a day for two weeks water 20-30 minutes once a day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day every other day for one week water 30-45 minutes once a day twice a week for one week move into deep irrigation, increasing the time to provide 1 inch of water all over and decreasing the frequency to just once a week. Starting off, the schedule supplies roughly 1/4 inch of water, then increases that amount while decreasing frequency of application at the same time. Like practically everything that concerns lawn care, this schedule is a general guideline and should be modified to accommodate your specific conditions. The lengths of time should be modified if you have an automatic sprinkler system since that will not take as long to provide adequate moisture. So, decrease amount of water (time) but maintain frequency as is. The tuna cans test is recommended. If it is still especially warm, you may want to irrigate 3 times a day (10-15 minutes if necessary) for that first couple weeks. Your objective is to keep the upper 1 inch of soil moist and not let the seeds dry out. 9. First mowing is when the new grass reaches two inches. However, the existing grass will be considerably taller. To prevent damage to the old and new grass, you'll have to mow down gradually again to the point of mowing 1/3 off the new grass. You do want to get the new grass mowed early at this time in order to promote tillering. Then, you want to gradually raise the mowing height to desired length of 2.5 inches. Higher if you prefer.

chefjbs, tiemco probably referred to that because warm season grasses typically are cut lower and more frequent then cool season grasses, and as such the type of mower (reel) for warm season is usually recommended (but also more expensive). If you were to not have the tree debris and didn't mind exercise the Fiskars 6201 push reel mower (ie non-powered) is a great mower at around $200 (can be occasionally found on sale for ~$150). For your price-range maximum and the tiny lawn (about the same size as mine) there is no need to go crazy on the price/features. I have a Murray mower powered by a 6.5hp Briggs and Straton engine I got 10 years ago for $150 and it is still running great. Yeah it's heavy, and it's not self-propelled, but it gets the job done reliably. For mulching you don't want to skimp on engine size (or risk stalling the engine/getting unclean cuts), but unless you can't deal with the weight of the mower there really are no other reasons to spend up (IMO of course). Save money on the mower, and spend a couple bucks on some good replacement mulching mower BLADES (I personally use Gator mulching blades but there are many different types), and you will be quite happy. Just keep up on proper maintenance, as no matter how much you spend, leaving gas in over the winter, never changing the oil/air filter, using dull blades,etc. will make any mower choke prematurely. HTH

Grassy plants in 'B' is Liriope. C - the 5th photo looks like heavenly bamboo (nandina domestica) - a small cultivar, like 'Gulf Stream' or 'Harbor Dwarf'? Hard to see if the leaves are tri- pinnate in the photos. D - Aucuba japonica 'Gold Dust'. Prefers shade. Leaves burn in the sun, may be what the black leaves are, but I can't see enough detail to tell. E - Crepe myrtle - the flowers are too out-of-focus to be certain, but the distinctive seed pods cinch the crepe myrtle ID for me. F - second photo is an oak seedling. I don't think the 'holly' is a holly - at least, not an Ilex aquifolium or I. meservea. The new growth is purple, and not enough points on the leaves. G. Photinia doesn't have purple flowers. It has tiny white, wild-rose flowers in a cluster. The close-up of the groundcovers appear to be a morning glory (Ipomoea). I - the middle photo is photinia. The best photo you have of that shrub. Excellent focus, great lighting. K - I agree - some kind of maple. Opposite leaves cinch the ID. What's the deal with the tree stakes? N - could be a juniper. The photo is so washed-out and out-of-focus, it's hard to see detail, but I think I see one blue juniper berry on it. If it is a juniper, it will have 2 different types of leaves on the same branch. Juvenile leaves are needle-like and mature leaves are scale-like. Almost all of your photos were washed out, out of focus, or did not show details necessary to make a good ID. I agree with FataMorgana that you should post each plant separately. And take the photos early in the morning when the light is soft. At a minimum, you should take photos of the complete plant, the bark on the trunk (if it's a tree or shrub), one branch, a close-up of the tops and bottoms of the leaves, and a close-up of the flowers. Other characteristics of the plant that stand out, such as purple new growth, or fruit/seeds are helpful. Also, some plants have milky sap, chambered pith, hollow stems, etc., that are unique. Finally, some plants have distinctive scents when the leaves are crushed - yellow cedar smells like wet hay, incense cedar smells like...well, incense. Clerodendron leaves smell like peanut butter. All this information is helpful in identifying a plant that we can't touch, smell, or see with our own eyes over the internet. But conduct these examinations at your own risk- milky sap can often irritate the skin, and some plants have hairs that cause itching (itching powder that was sold in the back of comic books is actually the hairs from the big-leaf maple seed pods), for example. Have you considered asking a local County Extension agent of Master Gardener to come over and ID your plants, or take samples to their office or a local nursery? It's going to be painfully slow for you doing it this way.