Yes...and no. Building a residence with a basement or a crawl space was a common building technique in much of North America for a very long time. Many of the wonderful houses posted in RES's thread are built this way. And, of course, in many cold climate regions basements continue to be a popular way to build. I'm guessing that the post WWII housing boom helped to usher in the use of slab on grade construction for houses in temperate climates. It is faster and cheaper construction. That said...crawl space construction has gone out of favor for many reasons, including energy efficiency, mold, rhodents and "tight houses" which are much more efficient when built slab on grade. Custom designed houses using a properly designed and prepared slab on grade construction can be as high quality, energy efficient and long lasting as any other approach. But...if you want a house built like they were a century ago...and have the resources for it...then by all means proceed. Just be aware of the various issues that go along with it and be prepared for the necessary mitigation measures.

Thanks so much for your generous suggestions and advice. I forgot to mention that there will be a black metal and glass railing on both sides of the steps as well as a dark frame/smoked fiberglass fixed type awning above the front door. Would that make a difference in colour choice? I was thinking all light with some texture. So the railing and awning are the darker accents. We plan to put a couple of chairs and a few potted plants on the "patio" portion. In which case would light steps and super dark(saw a lovely carbon slate or dark wood textured outdoor tile) work? Or all light?

I don't imagine that you need a railing for code, but one would be nice. I would cover the posts in white and have a white railing. Some simple plantings along the foundation. This is interesting. I like this one and the style of the porch skirting.

There are tools that can help you get much of it up . There are glue removing chemicals. Chemicals that are intended to strip the finish from furniture will likely work. https://www.grainger.com/product/5LF60?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KufjIrO6gIVi-DICh3Hewy5EAQYBiABEgJvgvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI9KufjIrO6gIVi-DICh3Hewy5EAQYBiABEgJvgvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915859!!!g!439063557298! If all else fails and IF you are very careful, you can remove the glue with a modest amount of gasoline. Work on one level at cover it with thick paper shop towels or old towels you are prepared to throw away and wet the towels and let the glue soak for ten or fifteen minutes. Then use a plastic scraper to gouge it up. With a flammable, do not use metal tools because sparks could create fire. https://www.floormatshop.com/Roberts-10-522-4-Safe-Tuk-Carpet-Nylon-Tucker-Tool-3-5-Inch.aspx?matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=662863806&adgroup=pla-301747708304&_vsrefdom=floormatshop&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KufjIrO6gIVi-DICh3Hewy5EAQYBSABEgJ2tfD_BwE There are less expensive tools but the idea is the same.You need to scrape off the glue. Even an old metal kitchen cooking spatula could work.