It's interesting how what works in one person's garden does not necessarily work in another's. I've tried plastic several times and never had satisfactory results. Don't get me wrong - I wanted to like it! I wanted it to work. Who wouldn't like the promise of less weeding, fewer pests, and increased yields? It just never seems to turn out that way for me. It had been several years since I used plastic, so I decided to try it again last year for all my warm season crops. Here are my observations based on MY garden (yours may be different): 1) Fairly easy to install. A bit tricky to get it tucked in nice and tight around the edges of the beds as is recommended, but it only needs to be done once. Overall, less work than other mulches. 2) Difficult to control moisture! I know one of the promises of plastic mulch is that it conserves water, but I found it difficult to keep the soil moist, despite adequate rainfall AND me sticking the hose under the plastic at least once each week. I'm sure a soaker hose would work better, but our water is extremely hard and full of iron, so it would foul up a soaker hose in no time flat. So at least once per week all summer, I would turn the hose to a moderate trickle and stick it under the plastic, positioning it between plants so as not to erode the soil around the roots. Move it every 15 minutes or so, when the soil was good and damp. My hope was that capillary action would help transport water around so plants did not have to be watered individually. Unfortunately, whenever I peeled back the mulch a few days later, the result was always the same... dry, dry DRY! 3) No apparent improvement with regard to pests. In fact, squash bugs were even worse last year. Not sure if this has anything to do with the plastic, but.. 4) No early ripening of fruits. In fact, tomatoes were later than ever. Then again, many gardeners in the Northeast reported this last year though, so I'm not blaming the plastic. My theory is that the heat wave we had in June sterilized the first round of blossoms, so we all had to wait until Round 2. 5) Black plastic definitely attracts snakes. This could be good or bad, depending on what variety of snakes we're talking about and how you feel about them. I saw them lounging on the plastic frequently and found numerous snake skins under the plastic at the end of the season. I can accept the snakes (in my case all harmless garters), but not being able to control (or easily monitor) moisture was a real problem for me. Again, your mileage may vary. This is just my experience.

I think the plant is sending you a message. Draining fast.....yet soil is wet. Watering to let dry out.....but the soil doesn't dry out. That should tell you the soil is not draining properly. I believe you have overwatered.....and overwatered to the point that it will not now allow the roots to take up further moisture. The water is sitting under and around the roots...the plant is not using it. Don't put another plant in the same pot....firstly, the second plant will undboutedly have a different growth habit...may take away the moisture from the older one. So unless the new guy is a brother or sister born on the same day, don't put a second plant in the same pot. Don't feed a sick plant. Stop all feeding until the plant begins to grow new leaves and give it the best sun you can...a south and/or west exposure is necessary. The plastic pot: There is this thing about plastic. It holds water longer than .....say does clay. When soil is allowed to sit for a long time in a dry condition, you can expect the soil at the pot's edge to shrink. Yes, you say the soil is not drying...but this may be due to the shrinkage happening before this condition started. When you water, the water is draining...and you, of course, think the roots are being given sufficient ....but... if the soil has shrunk at the surface, the soil is coming away from the sides of the pot...and the water is going down the sides fast....very fast..and showing up as drainage. In fact though, the roots are not receiving it. I would suggest...even in this low light season, to either do one of two things....inspect the plastic pot -- see if the soil on the surface has indeed shrunk...and fill in with fresh potting soil...or repot in a clay pot. (clay pots should be allowed to sit immersed in water overnight--to absorb water into itself...before putting new plants into it) The first watering in the clay pot will have to be given a little extra....like the tea pot...one for the plant, one for the pot. When you unpot, look at the roots....they may be in a stage of rotting. Clean up what roots you see...wash away the old soil..and maybe even consider putting a drop or two of "Damp Off"..a fungicide, in the first watering to combat any bacteria that may have built up in the soil around the roots. Water to drainage.....and dump the excess. When the plant begins to improve, then I suggest you consider cutting it back...no more than 25%...and round about February you should begin to see new growth and a much healthier plant. Whether you change the mix of the soil your plant is growing in is up to you. There is good potting soil and there is other potting soil that is not so good. Add as you wish coarse builder's sand, or peat moss. Peat moss should be wetted first with hot water. Peat moss shrinks from cold water. The fresh potting soil shouldhave all the vermiculite or perlite necessary already in it.

You'll have quite a selection to pick this year. First thing you'll need to do is separate the determinates from indt. varieties. that way you can plan a taller trelis for the INDT varieties and shorter for the DETs. I'd avoid interplanting them as much as possible. Most Det. varieties will send out a network of branches faster than you will be able to weave them into the panel openings. You may end up just weaving string around the plants at different heights to hold them partially against the panels. The soaker hose will need to go under the plastic. If left above at any spot the water will just run to the lowest point- which is often the edge of the plastic. I would first lay out your soaker hose lines over your prepared bed in straight rows. Then lay the plastic over the hoses, exposing only the source ends (for waterline hookup). To minimize exposed area use a utility knife to cut a 6-8" slit parallel with the soaker hose where each plant will be planted. Then with a scissors cut a 3-4" perpendicular to each slit in both directions being careful to miss your soaker hose when cutting toward it. Now you can fold the flaps out, plant your tomatoes (again careful against the soaker hose) and then fold the flaps closed again against each plant. I don't think you need to be so careful with soaker hose but I use driptape and on occasion I'll need to splice a section that I nick with the utility knife or digging trowell. This method doesn't work if you need to trench plant. For that I usually plan to have the plastic mulch seam overlap slightly at the row and then laying rocks between each plant is necessary to hold the plastic down. I lay old boards between the rows to hold the plastic in place, provide a solid fotting and to keep from packing soil excessively throughout the season. Quackgrass is hardy and it will seek light at the slightest crack so be prepared. Some might suggest a newspaper "collar around each plant tucked under the plastic. Using a vegetative mulch around each plant might help but you'll need a thicker layer to prevent grass from growing through it. That brings up another point. Be sure the black plastic mulch is thick enough (2 mil.+) to keep quackgrass from sending tillers right through it.

Removal of jets varies by brand. Google the internet and you'll likely find what you need. If the tub is older and hasn't been cleaned in a long time, you may have to fill it up with hot water to cover the jets and let it stand in order to soften any debris that might be locking the jets in place. I did that and added a couple of dishwasher tablets to the water. Worked like a charm. Once mine were in the plastic bag, I put them in a window to bleach and it worked even on an overcast rainy day. I wouldn't bother with the UV light.