roof lines and crawls. note we are eliminating the shed porch along the front.

Not to be rude but did you have a draftsman/designer or a licensed architect?

Also can you make plans a bit larger to read?

How does house sit on the lot? Did the "architect" give you plans showing that too as he/she should?

It is super hard to look at your plans, but from what I can see, parts are very similar to ours. We went up with 2 bed/bath/loft. Ours is technically a story & a half, with a large shed dormer on the back making the 2nd bedroom & loft full height.

You'll definitely save money on roof & foundation going up. :)

They spelled your name wrong.

If your architect doesn't provide 3D design drawings, I can help you with that but because I'm an architect I should not compete with your architect.

The revised design program will cause the house to be quite different. Good luck with it.

Do you know how hard it is to look and comprehend house designs when they are oriented incorrectly?

I avoid:

1. Designs that do not relate to the site.
2. Large expanses of exterior wall without windows.
3. Hallways less than four feet wide.
4. Stairs less than 3'-6" wide.
5. Stair treads that are not rectangular in shape.
6. Powder rooms that are too small
7. Closets with doors that insufficiently provide full access to the closet's content.
8. Clothes closets accessible from a bathroom.
9. Gas chambers without windows.
10. Gas chambers.
11. Corner bedrooms with only one window.
12. No coat closet at exterior entrances.
13. Different ceilings in an open space that do not transition well.
14. Insufficient space beside a door for the light switch.

to name a few.

Not to be rude but did you have a draftsman/designer or a licensed architect?

Poor speller.

"What are we saying the architect did wrong?"

See list above.

I don't think anyone is criticizing your architect. People on the forum are often curious if the title "architect" is being used inappropriately so they ask about it.

Your architect has been registered for 29 years so that issue is settled.

But most members here would like to think they could improve a design and that's why you're here.

The hand drawn drawings are harder to read for those accustomed to CAD drawings especially when photographed in poor light. A print of a hand drawn drawing needs to be scanned into a digital file which is expensive. A CAD file could be converted to a JPG file on the computer and emailed or posted online. Filling in walls to make them easier to see is called poche and takes a long time by hand but is quick on a computer. So, hand drawn drawings are OK on the job site but are a major pain for digital communication.

Thank you RES 3d Sketches. I only photographed the drawings because I needed to note the changes. The PDF copies from the architect won't show those changes, I will see if I can convert to JPEG. I came here to get advise so I can give the architect direction . . but maybe that's the wrong way to approach it, and I should just talk to her about these concerns. *First timer here* ;)

Mary......Lists are great but keep in mind the big picture. Everything has a context.

Tell the architect:

1. It is Andersen with an 'e'.
2. Have the spaces have a better interaction with the outdoors, design to the property lines (ARGism)
3. Where practical provide windows in exterior walls that do not have them.
4. Make hallways at least four feet wide.
5. Make stairs at least 3'-6" wide.
6. Make all stair treads rectangular in shape.
7. Powder room larger.
8. Provide a coat closet at all exterior entries.
9. Do not make the clothes closets accessible from a bathroom.
10. Get rid of the gas chamber or at least make it pleasant to be in (larger, window, etc.)
11. Make sure ceilings in an open space transitions well with the adjacent spaces it is open to.
12. Provide sufficient space beside the latch side of all doors for light switch(s).
13. Do you know where the other pink tennis shoe is?

I guess Mark's projects are different than mine as I'm always fighting overall square footage yet still accomplish the owners program. For example right now I have a 1400SF program with a gourmet kitchen requirement (read "big") and yes we have a 3' wide stair. The house actually ended up 1469SF and even that small overage tears me up.

Of all the projects I've posted here where there's been a call for a larger whatever, to date no one's sent in a check to make that happen. And all have had a maximum SF limit. As I said above, everything has a context.

Okay, okay, I will admit I like spaces a bit roomier than minimums.

I agree with PPF; if the kid's rooms are going to be moved upstairs, you should let your architect propose a new plan and massing for the house. I doubt that much from the current design will survive the redesign.

I use 42" for halls and stairs unless there is a special condition and 32" for doors.

Mary's plans appear to show a 60" corridor outside of the MBR, a 48" corridor in the MBR and a 42+" corridor outside of the kid' bedrooms. The stair appears to be 42" wide. There also appears to be wall space for switches at doors. The doors appear to be 36".

If the kid's bedroom wing is removed, there will be plenty of opportunities for windows in the dining and living room spaces and perhaps even a porch.

The major challenge will be connecting two 1 1/2 story elements without the expense of dormers. I would sketch a plan and a section and then test the design with a rough 3D model.

I await the architect's solution.