When I visited the Huntington some years ago, I asked one of the rose garden volunteers to show me their self-pegged roses. They didn't look anything like I expected - the roses were tied around themselves horizontally, rather than in the hoop-like shapes that Clair has written about. (He also talked about self-pegging Graham Thomas, which is not possible, IMHO, because the canes are much too stiff.) We did the horizontal self-pegging some in the cemetery, and it does increase bloom, but it is a lot of work. Here are my observations: 1. Most of the bourbons and HPs will indeed die back to the highest point, as Jeri describes. 2. Sunburn is an issue, particularly on roses like Mme Isaac Perriere. 3. Best results are in pulling the canes horizontally, wrapping them around a tripod or other structure, or encouraging them to arch over. 4. You need to remove the pegged canes after one or two years. We even played with tying fishing weights onto long canes of one of the HPs to encourage the branches to arch - that worked but was rather odd-looking! Anita

I live in Zone 10 southern California, but within the coastal zone which has misty conditions spring-earkt summer, then settles into a true Mediterranean climate by August which continues till December when the rains start. Many roses will mildew, ball and sulk here during spring - early summer, and then after the dry weather takes over in August, the same sulky roses will bloom beautifully and have clean foliage till December. I tried growing Carefree Beauty last year - probably planted it in June - a nice healthy ownroot rose from ARE with really strong roots. After the first few weeks in the ground and a promising initial burst of growth, CB just sulked and mildewed. It did not improve after the dry sunny late summer settled in, so I shovelpruned it in December. I sometimes gift unhappy roses to a friend's garden in Topanga Canyon which tho inland from Malibu has 100+ temps in the summer, and these roses are often very happy there as long as they get enough water. So maybe CB would do better in a more classic southern California climate than my microclimate provides.

Tessiess, thank you for your input. I used alfalfa pellets for the first time this spring, and upon closer observation, I have not noticed any major differences that I can definitely attribute to its use; unfortunately I continued to use my normal March cocktail which could account for a lot of what I saw in terms of growth etc. I research, research, research and many experts warn against the use of alfalfa as it is believed to raise the pH, which is the opposite of what I want for my high alkaline soil. Years ago, I attempted to grow Blanc Double de Coubert. I had just began rose gardening and I am sure its demise is gardener error. I am happy to learn that you have had luck with rugosas; with very little intervention, which is probably key to its success? Now if I can just find someone who has had success with Paul Neyron to discover what the issue is with as so many gardeners seem to despise it.... Lyn, you are so correct. Las Vegas has its name because it means the meadows. This land was once very fertile and wet. Generally, the soil in Las Vegas has inorganic minerals, but is very low in organic compounds . We aspire to have soil that is 5% organic compounds but have to amend a lot to get there. We also amend the soil to lower the pH.

Is this a valid concern? Enough to either switch to standard pots instead, or increase the ratio of calcined products even further? I'd say it's a valid concern, given the evaporative surface is probably in the neighborhood of trebled. I can't tell you what to do because it sort of depends on how much you're willing to water. I suppose it you're willing to water daily if that's necessary, a try at upping the water retention with the added water-retaining products is a good bet. Regardless of what you try- why not also try at least one variant container type with a regular mix (if you use 1 pot) or a super soaker mix if you use the fabric bags. - And just out of curiosity, if the unscreened Turface/DE doesn't affect aeration why do you (seemingly) prefer perlite? Cost- or weight-related? I use perlite because I don't want or need the additional water retention afforded by products like Turface or calcined DE. I don't particularly like to water, but my plants appreciate me making soils that require frequent watering. I have at least 200 containers, so I have to make the watering rounds daily (unless it rains) anyway, because I have so many bonsai pots that have 1/2 cup of soil or less. Some plants only need watering every 5 days or so (like pines & junipers), but the little guys demand close attention. That's not the soil's fault - it's related almost entirely to my choices that limit soil volume. Should I water based on the volume of the media with 5-1-1, or should I water based on the size of the plant? Both of those considerations are part of what you use to decide when to water. A well made 5:1:1 is quite forgiving when it comes to the potential for over-watering, so common sense usually carries the day. After a planting is established, you might wait for a weekend when you know you can watch a plant carefully. Water on Wednesday or Thursday, then watch carefully for the first sign of wilt to give you a better idea of where the limits are. It won't take long before you'll be factoring light levels, wind, humidity ..... as a matter of course into your determination of when to water - it'll become almost reflexive. I hardly even think about what I'm doing as I water - usually thinking about something else. If you're in doubt about whether or not the plant will be ok until your next opportunity to water ..... you can usually water w/o ill effects because of the nature of the soil you're using. - Would you recommend the seedlings in an intermediate pot before they go into their final 15gal homes? Personally, I wouldn't bother, but I WOULD be mindful of making sure I keep the soil moist where I think the roots are. IOW, if all the roots are in the top 3" of soil, you better water so the top 3" is moist enough to satisfy water demands. As noted, if you run into this issue at transplant time, you can set the fabric bags on the ground (to take advantage of the earth's wicking action, or set things up so an actual wick is keeping the lower part of the container from staying soggy - say if you have to water daily immediately after transplanting. Don't worry about asking questions. That's what drives the forums. If I can't answer, there are a lot of smart folk here who can help. Once I'm a part of as thread I usually follow it until it fades away, so if you're getting replies from others (say on this thread) and I seem to have gone missing, it's just that I agree with what's being said & there's no need for me to add anything to 'their' able advice. If I think you're not getting good info, I usually offer some sort of input that will make whoever's following the thread view what was said in a light that shows it might not hold up to more than casual scrutiny. With the number of messages I get from people who actually make a point of saying they are totally confused by conflicting information, it's probably as GOOD thing for everyone if we make it more of a point to hold each other's feet to the fire so people can rely on what's being presented as good advice. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Thanks for the kind words, BTW. Al