Remove drywalled reach-in pantry?
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5 years ago
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Sina Sadeddin Architectural Design
5 years agoUser
5 years agoRelated Discussions
removing lathe and plaster, insulating, drywalling
Comments (45)"My general contractor offered me to hang a drywall on top of plaster but I dont see a value of this." Oh for the love of God - I wish if people didn't know how to do something or it was outside their range of expertise they would just say so and not propose these ridiculous things that do more harm than good. So he adds more thickness with a layer of drywall - what does he do with the trim then? Rip it out and install skinny cheap modern trim from Home Depot (some do exactly that - ugghhhh) Sorry OP I just had to vent there!! Ive been looking at old houses to buy and theres no end of goofy, futzy things that people have done to them. Im glad you saw the folly of that esp in such an old house. Like fine antiques, as time goes on people more appreciate the old things - esp if well maintained in original condition. You may want to go over to thehistoricdistrict.org, which has many old house lovers on the forum including professionals who can advise in great detail about how to do plaster repair. Especially with your age of house - you might want to confirm what type of plaster you have . There was an earlier type of lime plaster with different composition with materials you might have to hunt for (but certainly are obtainable at reasonable cost) The later type of gypsum based plaster used in early-mid 1900s - materials not available at big box - I think Ace had a type of patching plaster that can work but the plaster of paris that they (and home depot) sells is not good - sets up way too fast and hard. Otherwise any small-mid size city should have a building supply store where they carry the more specialized types of materials - while traditionally plater walls had a three coat system, for repairing cracks Ive just used plain patching or veneer plaster - if a bigger hole you can get a rough coat plaster for first layer and veneer plaster for the top layer. Use a bonding agent on the edges of the old plaster and the lath to help the new plaster adhere well to the old. There's various other techniques for bigger areas and different types of situations - and other people will have their favorite methods and materials (some use drywall compound but IMHO if you have extensive repairs its best (and considerably cheaper) to get the real stuff. Re very fine surface hairline cracks - ignoring those works the best! In a nutshell - plaster repair is exactly the kind of labor intensive but very doable thing that a typical home owner can learn to do, and do well....See MoreWhat type of shelving should I put in reach-in pantry?
Comments (11)oouuhhhh!! I love Hillbilly's pantry! I hadn't been able to work out shelving for my pantry before we moved in a few days before Thanksgiving. I needed to get something organized in my house before hosting the holiday. My carpenter recommended the Rubbermaid adjustable shelving system with MDF shelves at HD. I really, really wanted something more custom looking, but settled for this as it was cheap, could be done in a day, and meant that I could UNPACK! The shevles are 12" deep and are adjustable, although, like someone else mentioned, I doubt I'll adjust them. Carpenter said it was cheaper to do adjustable shelves than fixed. grrrr. Oh, and BTW, that pantry was much more organized before DH came out from a visit in there and said, "there's a lot more room in the pantry now." He mushed everything together and put Christmas junk in there. Another grrrrr....See Morewould you remove pantry closet from kitchen?
Comments (8)We built our new kitchen from scratch as part of a 2nd story addition. Given the space created underneath the stairway, we used that space for a small reach in pantry closet. However, the door is really in the walkway INTO the kitchen rather than inside the kitchen. Since our kitchen will be large (17 x 20) we already had the space for a pantry cabinet inside the kitchen itself. But our realtor friend told us that buyers really like to see a recognizable "pantry" regardless of how much cabinet space you have. So our solution? First, we had our builder trim it out as a coat closet, but he also trimmed it with adjustable shelf brackets and shelves which we will store behind a "secret door" leading to the awkwardly shaped but useful storage area under the stairs. So basically we got a coat closet that can transform into a deep reach-in pantry in about 5 minutes if needed. The "secret door" thing was easy. They started the drywall at the back of the back of the closet about 36" above the floor, created a big square hold at the back of the closet. Then the put some short hinged doors in to cover it up. A great place for putting Xmas decorations, luggage, etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Our bungalow remodel blog...See MoreAnyone remove their pantry & put cabinets instead?Also 24' pantry
Comments (12)Honestly, I'm confused. How big is your pantry closet? 36" long x 24" deep? Or is it 36" long by 36" deep and you want to narrow the depth to 24" and put a 12" deep cabinet BEHIND it? I cannot picture this at all! Do you have cabinets next to the fridge right now or just a deep pantry closet? OK, well, you only have a coat closet if you completely get rid of the pantry closet, therefore I say that you must have at a minimum a 24"x24" utility / broom closet. As far as an actual "pantry" goes, it's hard to say without a floorplan. A well designed pantry is invaluable, a poorly designed pantry is a major waste of space. If you have a small kitchen and lack counterspace then you may be better off without a pantry, but usually that would be replacing it with 24" deep base cabs and 12" deep uppers. You still need storage space - the equivalent of what your pantry held at least. A "pantry" stores food. A "closet" stores non-food items such as cleaning supplies and, well, yes, dog food too. A pantry can be replaced with the equivalent in cabinets (drawer base - regular base cabs are just as bad as a poorly designed pantry). Food and non-food items should have separate storage spaces - otherwise you end up with a mess as you apparently have right now (as do I - my pantry is poorly designed and at the opposite end of the dining room diagonally across from the kitchen - I don't know what the builder was thinking). Note that a 24" deep pantry only works if it is a pull-out, otherwise 12-15" shelves are the way to go....See MoreUser
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