Improving drainage
Shawntiah Jones
5 years ago
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Comments (10)
K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
5 years agoShawntiah Jones thanked K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)Related Discussions
How to improve drainage in concrete patio?
Comments (3)It does sound large and not shaped suited for mud jacking. If rain gathers in just a couple spots and they are clear of furniture, consider getting a commercial grade floor squeege - look in a janitorial supplier or on-line perhaps. They have "wings" on the ends. I've seen them in car dealers to push winter slop toward the drain. Another idea - talk with a landscaper about installing pavers atop the existing concrete. At least you would not have to remove the existing concrete. Good luck....See MoreAdvice on Improved Backyard Drainage
Comments (7)I was thinking of using the french drain as a replacement for the catch basin. It would serve the same purpose... collect the water in one place before it can be drained away. I was also kind of thinking it might look nicer having the exposed gravel for the french drain than the catch basin with just dirt around it. You're probably right though. The french drain is a lot more work to serve the same purpose and with possibly less capacity. I'm not sure how to calculate the capacity of a french drain but some really rough math makes me believe that the french drain is gonna have half the capacity. Doesn't your argument against french drains still apply to catch basins though? It's still possible to overwhelm the catch basin if it's undersized? Maybe it's just easier to under-size a french drain? What size catch basin should I be using? Your use of double negatives (unlikely and not) has me a little confused. :) Are you saying that two 4" pipes IS likely to be overkill, or that two 4" pipes IS NOT likely to be overkill? Later on it seems like you're advocating for using the two pipes. All the basins I initially saw with 2 outlets had the outlets on the opposite sides of each other. I figured I would either need have one outlet facing the correct direction and use two 90 degrees elbows to get the other pipe facing the correct direction, or put both outlets perpendicular to desired direction and then use one elbow on each side. I was hesitant to use so many elbows. I read stuff about using 45 degrees (or less) if possible to prevent the water from slowing down. Should I not be worried about that? Some more searching and I found this basin (http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/NDS-Drainage-Catch-Basin-p/nds-1800.htm) which lets me choose the sides I want the outlets. Having one face the correct direction and the other only being 90 degrees off seems better....See MoreImproving drainage
Comments (7)It sounds like you are suffering from the dreaded "bathtub effect" - even though the top of the soil is amended, underneath is tight clay and water is running in to the bed and has no where to go. And you are right - this is a problem for plants there. Especially for shrubs like roses that have deep roots. Here are my suggestions in order of bang-for-buck (or bang-for-backache). Raise the bed. Even if you only raise it 6" with a border around it, that will make a big difference to the plant. If you were doing annuals or vegetables, this would probably solve the problem. But you might need to an additional remedy for the shrubs - probably 10 to 12 inches would be ideal, but that is a lot of work and will radically change your landscaping. Put in a drain right next to the bed. Maybe there is a walkway, or just create an 8 or 9 inch French drain parallel to the raised bed. Fill it with gravel or stones so gravity will move the water away from the bed. Add some organic mulch like chopped leaves + coffee grounds + grass clippings as a thick mulch to the bed. This will break down pretty much over one or two seasons providing a rich and fast-draining topsoil for the shrubs. (Keep adding more mulch as needed.) Doing all three of these would probably work wonders. In short - you are not going to be able to change the actual properties of the soil without more work that it will be worth (not to mention the damage to the structure that more digging will cause). Better to raise the surface, mulch the top, and give the water a legitimate path to follow....See MoreImprove drainage in already planted heavy clay landscape?
Comments (7)@ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5 I know that amending the whole bed and not just the planting holes is common advice, however, the best local nursery around me does recommend amending planting holes because our soil is pure clay. I think the reasoning is that by the time the plant‘s roots want to expand beyond the plating hole, the mulch will have worked its way down and loosened the soil so that the plant doesn’t become root bound in the hole. I specifically asked about this issue even for planting shrubs and that was their best advice for shrubs too, because our soil is so clayey that non natives pretty much can’t get established without amendments. I must say, this approach has worked for me so far. Our soil eats mulch incredibly quickly. Obviously amending the whole bed would be best, but some amending is necessary when planting non natives. I now have about 5 in of dark friable soil in only 3 years and a really lush and not root bound garden. I know the shrubs are the real test, but they are doing great too. The shrubs that I didn’t amend are just sitting and not really growing while the ones which I amended the soil are really growing fast....See MoreShawntiah Jones
5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agoShawntiah Jones
5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years ago
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rifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)